Heat exchanger on Raypak

Right now, you are Cat 1 (Non-Condensing Negative Draft), but you are getting condensation, which indicates a bad design.

You probably need to go to Cat 3 (Non-Condensing Positive Draft), which will probably require all new Venting that is airtight and made from better steel.

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Thank you JamesW for all your help!!
The information provided is excellent. Appreciate it.
 
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Note: It is critical to have a licensed, qualified HVAC Contractor do the Design and Installation work to make sure it is correct, safe and code compliant.
I am not giving advice or recommendations on what to do or how to do it.


My goal is to try to help you understand the general issues involved and the terminology so that you can be better prepared to discuss a proper solution with a Licensed Contractor and Raypak.

The licensed Contractor has to decide on the best Design, Engineering and Architecture for your situation based on the actual installation and all local codes.
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The exhaust is usually about 300 degrees as it leaves the heater.

The exhaust contains a lot of water vapor.

The exhaust needs to stay above 132 degrees until it exits the vent outside or the water will condense inside the vent.

The current vent is probably too large causing the exhaust to move too slowly.

You can speed up the exhaust by reducing the vent size and increasing the pressure with the Power Vent.

This requires Cat III venting, which is airtight.

The vent can be insulated to maintain exhaust temperature.
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I would also have the HVAC Contractor work with a Raypak Technical advisor to get their approval of the installation.

Raypak and the HVAC contractor should agree on a plan to Commission the equipment to ensure that everything is functioning correctly.

Raypak and the HVAC company should also have a plan to monitor the operation periodically to ensure good operation.

Note: It is critical to have a licensed, qualified HVAC Contractor do the Design and Installation work to make sure it is correct, safe and code compliant.
 
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