- Jul 4, 2020
- 10
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi. I have a Hayward H400 natural gas pool and spa heater that is now around 15 years or so old. My kids wanted to use the spa over winter break but the heater was not coming on. I checked it myself and saw it was giving the IF code - ignition failure. I changed modes back to pool, waited for the valves to turn plus a few minutes more, and then changed back to spa mode. Once back in spa mode I attempted to turn on the heater and it behaved as it is supposed to when there is an ignition failure - 3 cycles of ignition attempts and then posted the IF code again. I can hear and smell the gas during ignition attempts but there was no "whoomp" and no ignition. I checked all of the obvious things - gas valve turned on, no tripped breakers, etc.
Next I removed the front cover and observed a temperature limiter just hanging from its black and white wires, because the metal bracket it (and the manifold) mounts to was significantly rusted-out, the screw holes for mounting it were gone, as were the mounting screws. Much of the rest of the bracket is rusted-out as well, there is rust on the edges of the burner tubes, but the rest of the inside of the heater and all other components appear to be ok. The manifold looks fine, and I used a paper clip to make sure all of the venturi injectors are clear of any spider webs or other blockages. Then I started checking all of the electrical connections I could see. When I got to the spade connections on the electronic gas valve, one of the wires came off in my hand as soon as I wiggled it, on the "TR" side of the gas valve. It appears to share a common connection with the wire above it so I'm thinking I can splice it in with that one or solder the connection. But that wouldn't explain the ignition failure since I know the gas is making it to the manifold and the burner tubes. Pics attached.
I wanted to check the igniter, but there is no bracket in place for it. I am guessing that back in the days when I used to call a service tech for these types of things, the rusting bracket may have already been an issue and he simply eliminated the bracket and ran the igniter and wire directly to where it needed to go. (See orange wire in pics)
My questions: I don't plan to be in my house more than another 2-3 years and don't want to replace the heater unless I have no other options. In terms of trying to order replacement parts online myself, I can't seem to locate the rusted bracket, am not sure if it comes with the manifold and if not, I don't know what that bracket is called so I can try to locate it, if it is even available. I stumbled through the Hayward site and some manuals and parts lists without success. Do I need to replace the gas valve or I can simply splice (or solder) the white wire into the connection above it as they appear to share a common connection on the "TR" side, or must I order and replace the gas valve? If replace, any guesstimate of the cost and a reputable site from which to order it? Any suggestions on how I can get to the igniter to try to inspect/check it for proper function, as the access panel on the side of the heater is near the top and gives no access to the lower half of the heater? Do I need to replace the burner tubes as well because of the rust?
Any and all suggestions and input gratefully accepted!
Next I removed the front cover and observed a temperature limiter just hanging from its black and white wires, because the metal bracket it (and the manifold) mounts to was significantly rusted-out, the screw holes for mounting it were gone, as were the mounting screws. Much of the rest of the bracket is rusted-out as well, there is rust on the edges of the burner tubes, but the rest of the inside of the heater and all other components appear to be ok. The manifold looks fine, and I used a paper clip to make sure all of the venturi injectors are clear of any spider webs or other blockages. Then I started checking all of the electrical connections I could see. When I got to the spade connections on the electronic gas valve, one of the wires came off in my hand as soon as I wiggled it, on the "TR" side of the gas valve. It appears to share a common connection with the wire above it so I'm thinking I can splice it in with that one or solder the connection. But that wouldn't explain the ignition failure since I know the gas is making it to the manifold and the burner tubes. Pics attached.
I wanted to check the igniter, but there is no bracket in place for it. I am guessing that back in the days when I used to call a service tech for these types of things, the rusting bracket may have already been an issue and he simply eliminated the bracket and ran the igniter and wire directly to where it needed to go. (See orange wire in pics)
My questions: I don't plan to be in my house more than another 2-3 years and don't want to replace the heater unless I have no other options. In terms of trying to order replacement parts online myself, I can't seem to locate the rusted bracket, am not sure if it comes with the manifold and if not, I don't know what that bracket is called so I can try to locate it, if it is even available. I stumbled through the Hayward site and some manuals and parts lists without success. Do I need to replace the gas valve or I can simply splice (or solder) the white wire into the connection above it as they appear to share a common connection on the "TR" side, or must I order and replace the gas valve? If replace, any guesstimate of the cost and a reputable site from which to order it? Any suggestions on how I can get to the igniter to try to inspect/check it for proper function, as the access panel on the side of the heater is near the top and gives no access to the lower half of the heater? Do I need to replace the burner tubes as well because of the rust?
Any and all suggestions and input gratefully accepted!