Hayward Goldline PL-PLUS is dead!

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

dc757

Member
May 2, 2022
12
Yorktown, VA
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Pool installed July 2021. Opened pool yesterday and discovered my Hayward PL-PLUS subpanel/automation box is DEAD! Nothing on LCD screen. I checked voltage after the local breaker and it shows 247v. So there is good power to the PCB. Nothing on the board looks blown/bulged. All 3 fuses are intact and everything seated.

I'm following the warranty process with Hayward. The issue has to be diagnosed by an authorized service center. In my case that's Leslie's and they wont be out until next Wed! $120 service fee. I really don't want Leslie's to send some half Rear tech that states the obvious and then be told I need to wait 3 weeks for a part. I don't want to buy a new PCB ($800) because then I can't file a warranty claim.

I suspect the PCB is bad or perhaps the control panel? It's warming up here in VA, so without an operational pump I'm going to dump some liquid chlorine in the pool along with some algaecide and stir it up with my pole net.

I'm here to get some troubleshooting suggestions. Thanks in advance!

PXL_20230421_114553551.jpgPXL_20230421_113234370.MP.jpgPXL_20230421_114127297.jpgPXL_20230421_114131941.jpgPXL_20230421_113251005.jpgPXL_20230421_115100360.jpg
 
You are measuring 240V for the pump.

Your PL-PLUS is powered by 120V from the upper right CB that also powers your light.

Note the wire that I circled that feeds to the connector labeled Control Power.

You have some questionable wiring in your panel...

  • There should be only one wire connected to a CB. You have two. You can wire nut the two wires together with a pigtail connected to the CB.
  • Your light relay is switching neutral lines. Neutral wires should not be switched. The white wire on screw 4 should be connected directly to the neutral bar.
  • What type of pool light do you have? Should your light CB be GFCI?
  • Your pool pump CB must be GFCI. That is a code requirement for a pool built in 2021.
What pump do you have?

Connect the pump wires to the CB wires to run the pump until you get your panel fixed.

PL-PLUS NO POWER.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
ajw22 said:
You are measuring 240V for the pump.

Your PL-PLUS is powered by 120V from the upper right CB that also powers your light.

Note the wire that I circled that feeds to the connector labeled Control Power.

You have some questionable wiring in your panel...

  • There should be only one wire connected to a CB. You have two. You can wire nut the two wires together with a pigtail connected to the CB.
  • Your light relay is switching neutral lines. Neutral wires should not be switched. The white wire on screw 4 should be connected directly to the neutral bar.
  • What type of pool light do you have? Should your light CB be GFCI?
  • Your pool pump CB must be GFCI. That is a code requirement for a pool built in 2021.
What pump do you have?

Connect the pump wires to the CB wires to run the pump until you get your panel fixed.

View attachment 484731
Click to expand...
  • I will turn on the CB on the right when I get home and report back. Doof!
  • There should be only one wire connected to a CB. You have two. You can wire nut the two wires together with a pigtail connected to the CB.
    • I will make a pigtail
  • Your light relay is switching neutral lines. Neutral wires should not be switched. The white wire on screw 4 should be connected directly to the neutral bar.
    • I will move to the neutral bar
  • What type of pool light do you have? Should your light CB be GFCI?
    • Hayward Colorlogic. Yes I believe it should be GFCI but GFCI breakers were not available according to pool builder. Perhaps COVID supply chain issue. I will see if I can find one and replace
  • Your pool pump CB must be GFCI. That is a code requirement for a pool built in 2021.
    • Same answer as last
Thank you so much! I will report back in a bit!
 
JamesW said:
Control power is 120 volts.

The 120 breaker needs to be on.

View attachment 484733
Click to expand...

Doof!! I will flip on the 15A breaker on the right when I get home. I thought that was strictly for the pool light. Please tell me that's my cost free fix! I will report back shortly! OMG I feel like an dummy about now.
 
dc757 said:
Yes I believe it should be GFCI but GFCI breakers were not available according to pool builder. Perhaps COVID supply chain issue. I will see if I can find one and replace
Click to expand...

GFCI breakers were available through COVID. You had a lazy builder who put your families safety at risk.

You can find ones easily, That is no excuse.

Electrical GFCI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

What model ColorLogic light? 12V or 120V? You have a pool light 12V to 120V transformer?
 
  • Like
Reactions: dfwnoob
Ok, so I flipped the breaker and I have voltage all the way to the control board. Still blank screen. The voltage readings pictures are each of the 4 wires to control board. Each at least 110 so I have to assume the control board is bad and the main board is good? I also pigtailed the breaker and moved the neutral to the neutral bar as recommended.
PXL_20230421_203304125.jpgPXL_20230421_203310174.jpgPXL_20230421_203314260.jpgPXL_20230421_203318634.jpgPXL_20230421_202743442.jpgPXL_20230421_202749804.jpgPXL_20230421_202806764.jpgPXL_20230421_202826817.jpgPXL_20230421_202830975.jpg
 
You're doing something wrong because the voltage won't jump around that much.

You're not going to get 124.8 and then 112.6 volts.

Put the meter on 500 volts, not 200 volts.

Measure the voltage at the two red dots.

1682092721364-png.484733
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I tested the pins on the control board after the connector and these are the readings. Two small caps are a little corroded. Also pic of light transformer and overall system. Thanks for all your help.
PXL_20230421_205035005.jpgPXL_20230421_205040198.jpgPXL_20230421_205048877.jpgPXL_20230421_205053716.jpgPXL_20230421_204621514.jpgPXL_20230421_205450028.jpgPXL_20230421_205543931.jpg
 
Ok so I will verify all readings based on the instructions provided and report back. I was testing everything with tester set to 200v AC. I need to switch it to DC. I'll report back later this evening. Juggling too much...ugh
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply