Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Cel - Need Help

[jeremysm1]

About a month ago noticed the lights on the Aqua Rite said to check cell. The cell was caked so I did the acid/water clean and put it back. The cell has never worked since (it's only 2-years old fwiw). Instead of troubleshooting, I bought a new cell and installed it. Seems fine for the first few minutes but throws the same lights on: Check Salt and Inspect Cell. I replaced the cell with the same size cell and thought I reset everything. I called Hayward and they want me to have a local pool company come out. That bothers me as I just spend $700 on a replacement salt cell that should plug in and work--not spend another $500 on a service call.

Check out the pics. The test at the local store shows the salt to be perfect.

I'm hoping a guru here in the forums can help me diagnose and troubleshoot the problem. Please help. Thanks in advance!

 

[chiefwej]

http://www.prolinedist.com/wp-content/uploads/GL-AQR-Disgnostic-Manual-r1.58-2011.pdf

 

[ajw22]

Report your diagnostic readings:

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

Tell us what equipment you have:

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

Check the Cell Performance:

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At 75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

At 60%, or lower in either polarity, I would consider the cell to be bad.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

Do your own salinity test:

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

@JamesW

 

[jeremysm1]

Yesterday night was about to gather all the info you asked for but stopped short. I shut the unit off for a minute, turned it back on then did this:
Recalibrated Average Salt cel (Off, then back to Auto), pushed diagnostic button until instant salt appeared, flipped main toggle from auto to super, back to auto.
Toggled the salt cel back to T-15 (even though it already was there)
Held diagnostics button in for 5-seconds to reset timer
The errors went away. Checked this morning and no error lights showing. Chlorine is good. Will check chlorine in a few days to see as it's hot in Arizona and if its working should be okay--if not, will know soon.
Thanks!


FYI, here are my readings:
4100
97
31.9
0
28p
-0
Al-0
R1.59
T-15

 

[red-beard]

Just making sure about this, you do know that the "check cell" light comes on every 500 operation hours to REMIND you to check the cell. You then need to reset the light to tell the Aquarite that you have checked the cell.

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If the Inspect Cell Light is the only LED light flashing, then you can reset it by simply holding down the diagnostic button for 3 seconds, then release. The Inspect Cell indicator will now reset and will later come back on after another 500 hours of use.

 

[ping]

How long do you run the pump? The output is set for only 28% and that seems to be a really low output for this time of year unless it is running for 24/7.

 

[jeremysm1]

I run the pump for 10-hours. The chlorine was high (around 50% so I lowered it last night). We have massive amount of rain the last couple days, and I used this opportunity to drain a lot of water since it was almost overflowing--which should take the salt level down closer to 3000-3300. Maybe the high salt level was the biggest problem?!