I have a Hayward Aqua Plus. The screen read no cell power. I removed the board and checked the common relay “bad solder” connection and it looked fine. I then found the 20 amp fuse blown. I replaced it and powered up. As soon as the salt cell kicked on “pop”, it blew the fuse again. Where do I go from here?
Hayward Aqua Plus Blows 20 amp fuse
- Thread starter Joey Finnegan
- Start date
I have a Hayward Goldline Aqua Plus that says “no cell powe 1”. I pulled the board and verified the relay solder joint was good. Found the 20 amp was blown. I replaced it, powered everything back up and as soon as the salt cell started the fuse blew again. The pump runs fine but there is a delay before the salt cell starts up. I can watch the timer count down and as soon as the timer hits zero and the cell tries to come on “pop”, blown fuse. Any directions? Is there a schematic to look at somewhere. Could it be a short in the salt cell itself or is it more likely the board?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,486
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The best schematics we have for various modules Hayward uses are in Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,486
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Check the bridge rectifiers for shorts.
Checking bridge rectifiers is being discussed in…
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Checking bridge rectifiers is being discussed in…
Help Please - Aux Relays Not Working
@81david when you checked each aux relay, only one was on at a time right? and have you checked the system transformer outputs? (unplug the 6-position power connector and test the center 2 pins with your meter set to AC volts... you should get 19-22ish) @Jimrahbe any of three you suggested...
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So if I understand this schematic the salt cell is probably not shorted (a lot of YouTube said it could be the salt cell). I assume the rectifiers are changing ac to dc, correct? So I’m an auto tech and understand DC automotive circuits but I’m rusty on ac such as transformers. What is the fuse protecting? The board itself. Does the transformer just change voltage to a different output level?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,486
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You got to ask the YouTubers about why they say what they do.
Yup.
The transformer output.
Transformer takes in 120V or 240V and outputs about 24V.
Show the circuit board.
Show the rectifiers.
Unplug the cell and check the plug.
Check the cell for scale.
What are the first 7 of the box and cell serial numbers?
Show the rectifiers.
Unplug the cell and check the plug.
Check the cell for scale.
What are the first 7 of the box and cell serial numbers?
Last edited:
If the cell had metal bridging the plates, it could short out, but that would be very unusual.
The center plate and end plates get voltage, so you would need a metal bridge from center to either end.
Maybe a spring from a heater bypass.
Pop off the cell cap and check the wires.
The center plate and end plates get voltage, so you would need a metal bridge from center to either end.
Maybe a spring from a heater bypass.
Pop off the cell cap and check the wires.
Last edited:
Maybe a miswired board when the wires were reinstalled.
Is there 120 volts to the board?
Board power is only 120 volts.
Is there 120 volts to the board?
Board power is only 120 volts.
ProLogic blowing 20A fuse.
Hello, I could use some advice. I searched the forum but could not find an answer that suited this isssue. I have a Goldline ProLogic PS-4 that is showing a no power to chlorinator message. The equipment and cell are about 10 years old. The firmware is V4.10. I went through some of the...
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I’ll have to get the pics tomorrow but I definitely will. Thank you! I was curious what pins to check on the cord from the cell to see if I had a short in the cell.
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- Dec 13, 2020
- 909
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
From the schematic, if you want to follow up on the possibility of the rectifiers being shorted:
You can next short the cell wires with a jumper (power still off) and measure again. This time you should get continuity (low readings) in both directions if the rectifiers are not failed open.
If you do get very high resistance at the lug s on the first test, then there's a short almost certainly toward the cell. Either the wiring or the cell itself. You can follow up on that with the meter in resistance/continuity mode, just as you would for car wiring. The cell when passing water should also have a resistance well above the 1.2 ohms that would blow the fuse.
- Unplug the cell
- Unplug the 2 yellow transformer wires from lugs on the board.
- Replace the fuse (again).
- Measure resistance (ohms) between the two lugs on the board that the yellow wires were plugged into.
- Swap the meter leads and measure again.
You can next short the cell wires with a jumper (power still off) and measure again. This time you should get continuity (low readings) in both directions if the rectifiers are not failed open.
If you do get very high resistance at the lug s on the first test, then there's a short almost certainly toward the cell. Either the wiring or the cell itself. You can follow up on that with the meter in resistance/continuity mode, just as you would for car wiring. The cell when passing water should also have a resistance well above the 1.2 ohms that would blow the fuse.