I followed the Hayward trouble shooting guide and it points to the ICB . However, I have not verified fuel pressure. I did verify power going to the valve during start up. I read somewhere that the valve internals can stick over time. It’s right at 5 years old. Any thoughts?
Hayward 250 pool heater FI code.... does the fuel valve go bad very often?
- Thread starter Huntingaviator
- Start date
I can’t get the video to upload. It goes through the cycle. The blower kicks on igniter starts to glow and you can hear the power going to the fuel valve and it clicks to open and then nothing.
Ok, the code is IF and not FI. The FI code was confusing
IF is “Ignition Failure”.
Ensure main gas shutoff outside the heater is open and that the Gas Valve inside the heater is in the “ON” position.
Measure for 22-28 VAC across Gas Valve during trial for ignition.
If you're sure that all gas valves are open and you're getting the correct voltage to the gas valve, then the next step is to check the gas pressure static and during trial for ignition.
If the gas pressure checks out, then you probably have a bad gas valve.
IF is “Ignition Failure”.
Ensure main gas shutoff outside the heater is open and that the Gas Valve inside the heater is in the “ON” position.
Measure for 22-28 VAC across Gas Valve during trial for ignition.
If you're sure that all gas valves are open and you're getting the correct voltage to the gas valve, then the next step is to check the gas pressure static and during trial for ignition.
If the gas pressure checks out, then you probably have a bad gas valve.
Quick update. I had good static and load pressure however, I had zero manifold pressure. I think I’m going to pull the diaphragm off of that fuel valve and see if it’s stuck or something.
swamprat69
Well-known member
You need to confirm that you are getting the correct power to the gas valve. It is not a good idea to take the gas valve apart to check the diaphragm as you might damage the gasket resulting in a dangerous leak as the gaskets are not generally available as a replacement part. If you are getting no gas pressure at the manifold it would seem that either you are not powering the gas valve or the gas valve solenoid is sticking ( not the diaphragm).
BTW, You won't have any manifold pressure until the valve cycles to open. So unless you are checking the pressure at the time it is set to open, you will have zero, obviously.
What is your reading on the incoming pressure? If it is over the recommend max of 10.5" WC it will lock the valve up and you will not get any gas to the manifold after you hear and or feel the vale click.
What is your reading on the incoming pressure? If it is over the recommend max of 10.5" WC it will lock the valve up and you will not get any gas to the manifold after you hear and or feel the vale click.