Having a pool built and need advice

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voidpointer said:
Regarding AquaLink scheduling: What happens if, say, Spillover mode kicks in while I'm enjoying the spa in Spa Mode? Will it switch over to spillover anyway? Or is it smart enough to know not to do that if it isn't in pool mode?

I want to ask the question more broadly, because everything I've scheduled should only be done when I'm not using the pool, basically. But it would have no way of knowing that, presumably. So I am wondering how I can avoid fighting the schedule. I don't see a quick way to disable the schedule temporarily if I know I'll be using the pool at a certain time.

Any tips on this?
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The schedule is the schedule. Whatever is scheduled will happen when you schedule it. It is a 24 hour schedule. Nothing will override that. I do all my maintenance scheduling early in the morning before anyone would be in the pool. Schedule your spillover mixing for like 2am in the morning. The only way to "override" the schedule without changing the schedule would be to switch to the 2nd program group. And that is a PITA and you may forget to switch it back.
 
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voidpointer said:
Regarding AquaLink scheduling: What happens if, say, Spillover mode kicks in while I'm enjoying the spa in Spa Mode? Will it switch over to spillover anyway? Or is it smart enough to know not to do that if it isn't in pool mode?
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Nope, Aqualink is pretty dumb.

So schedule spillover times you are unlikely to be using the spa.
 
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Is there a way to turn down the blower? It's not horrible, but seems a bit much sometimes. And it tends to cause some water to splash over the sides of the spa. I've read that it typically means the blower is too big for the spa; but I'm not sure. Is it adjustable?
 
voidpointer said:
Is there a way to turn down the blower? It's not horrible, but seems a bit much sometimes. And it tends to cause some water to splash over the sides of the spa. I've read that it typically means the blower is too big for the spa; but I'm not sure. Is it adjustable?
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Blower is not adjustable.

You can install a valve to exhaust some air. See Spa Air Blower - Further Reading
 
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Thanks ajw. I think I will go with the valve. Since the muffler is 1", I will try a PVC tee that downsizes from 2" to 1" and just use a 1" ball valve. I'm not a plumber but seems like that should work.
 
Salt test came back today at 2800. Aquapure shows 2900. Earlier when salt was 3000, aquapure showed 3100. I think the aquapure sensor is pretty accurate; maybe there's no need to do the drop test for salt?

Also, the salt test leaves a white/chalky residue at the bottom of the non-chlorine test vial. It's difficult to clean. Will this interfere with the other tests?

And lastly, I'm not sure why the salt has dropped 200ppm in just 48 hours. Maybe this is just how it goes? Should I add to 3200?
 
voidpointer said:
Salt test came back today at 2800. Aquapure shows 2900. Earlier when salt was 3000, aquapure showed 3100. I think the aquapure sensor is pretty accurate; maybe there's no need to do the drop test for salt?

Also, the salt test leaves a white/chalky residue at the bottom of the non-chlorine test vial. It's difficult to clean. Will this interfere with the other tests?

And lastly, I'm not sure why the salt has dropped 200ppm in just 48 hours. Maybe this is just how it goes? Should I add to 3200?
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It is accurate to +-400 ppm. You are fine.
 
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FYI: I have the same SWG you have and keep it at around 3000. It has fallen lower and gone higher. It produces well. For my 29k gallons I run it at 53% to maintain 7ppm.

The vial is fine. Mine has that as well it does not affect results. Use it only for salt testing. I would still do the salt test every couple weeks. In addition, I have the below, which is fairly accurate.

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voidpointer said:
I didn't ask my question properly, sorry. I was asking if it affects the other, non-chlorine tests. For example, TA and CH. My TF-100 test kit only came with 2 vials: One for CL only and the other for everything else.
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Oh that's odd. I got a seperate 1766 salt test which comes with the test tube. My advice is get another tube. But as long as you clean it it should be ok. Get the auto-stir too and extra stir beans if you don't already have it.
 

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Maybe I'm using wrong terminology here? I called them "vials" but I guess they could be tubes too. They're plastic and cylindrical with ml markers on them. I do have a "viewing tube" for CYA as well. But as far as what I use on top of the stirrer (which I also have), just two. And only one stir bean, which I wash off between every type of test. What's the benefit of having more beans? And how many test vials/tubes should I have for this particular kit?
 
voidpointer said:
Maybe I'm using wrong terminology here? I called them "vials" but I guess they could be tubes too. They're plastic and cylindrical with ml markers on them. I do have a "viewing tube" for CYA as well. But as far as what I use on top of the stirrer (which I also have), just two. And only one stir bean, which I wash off between every type of test. What's the benefit of having more beans? And how many test vials/tubes should I have for this particular kit?
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They used to come with more vials/beakers. My kit came with 3: CL, CH and T/A. Then the comparator for pH and the long tube for CYA. Salt kit also come with a beaker. So when I test, I do all the tests without cleaning anything in between. I suggest order more beakers and beans.
 
voidpointer said:
Thanks ajw. I think I will go with the valve. Since the muffler is 1", I will try a PVC tee that downsizes from 2" to 1" and just use a 1" ball valve. I'm not a plumber but seems like that should work.
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Any ball valve will freeze in place in a few years. Use a diverter valve.
 
ajw22 said:

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

No reason to use a 3-way diverter. Use a T fitting and a 2-way diverter.
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My head is spinning a little bit reading the page you linked... I don't know what CPVC is, I don't know what it means by "Dope" for threaded fittings. I am just not knowledgeable enough to understand a lot of this advice. I'm not plumbing my whole equipment pad.

I was thinking 3-way because less PVC parts needed, but I guess the issue is that would allow me to close off the airway to the spa and that isn't useful. Thanks for the tip.

So then I'll do a tee, go from 2" PVC through the diverter valve, 2" on the other side, and get a fitting that down-sizes to 1" with a female-threaded opening on the end so I can screw in the muffler... sound right?
 
voidpointer said:
My head is spinning a little bit reading the page you linked... I don't know what CPVC is, I don't know what it means by "Dope" for threaded fittings. I am just not knowledgeable enough to understand a lot of this advice. I'm not plumbing my whole equipment pad.
Click to expand...


 
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ajw22 said:
Use PoolMath to determine what SWG % gives you 0.5 ppm less FC.
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Using pool math, I did Effects of Adding and used these values:
Pool Volume: 19440
Chemical Additions: SWG
24 hour SWG output: 1
To Calculate: Free Chlorine Generated
SWG%: 50%
Pump Run Time: 16 hours

Says it raises FC by 2.1

I'm not sure how to use this information. I think the missing factor here is how much FC is consumed each day, which I am not entirely sure of and it is different depending on sunny or not. What I can say though is the last 2-3 days, FC has gone up by 1.0 each time. We've had mostly full sunny days as well.

So how should I calculate how to drop FC by 1.0 to even it out? My FC is at 7.5 right now. I don't imagine I want it to get higher.
 

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