Having a pool built and need advice

[Newdude]

Do I do all of them?

You need a baseline for all the tests so run then all.

Once you do Calcium, CYA, TA and salt (when applicable) a few times, and are comfortable with the results, then you can move those to weekly/ bi weekly / monthly as you start to trust they don't move any.

FC and PH will be daily until you are one with your pool and just know what it wants. It takes a minute.

Also, only test FC with the powder (fas/dpd) the comparator block FC test leaves alot to be desired.

 

[ajw22]

See this as a starting point then adjust for your needs…

Basic Pool Care Schedule

This basic pool care schedule can guide you in creating your own pool care routine. Regular pool maintenance will keep your water sparkling!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[voidpointer]

You need a baseline for all the tests so run then all.

Once you do Calcium, CYA, TA and salt (when applicable) a few times, and are comfortable with the results, then you can move those to weekly/ bi weekly / monthly as you start to trust they don't move any.

FC and PH will be daily until you are one with your pool and just know what it wants. It takes a minute.

Also, only test FC with the powder (fas/dpd) the comparator block FC test leaves alot to be desired.

Does the daily Chlorine and pH test replace the weekly chlorine drop test? Both have "Chlorine" in the name so I'm not sure.

 

[voidpointer]

First test results look really bad? Also, 3 and 5 under chlorine look like the exact same color to me...

 

[ajw22]

All the yellow chlorine side of that test tells you is that you have chlorine in the pool. Don’t try and read a color and value. Use the FAS/DPD chlorine test for all your FC testing right now.

Your ph is high as to be expected. Call it 8.2.

Looks normal for a newly plastered pool.

 

[voidpointer]

All the yellow chlorine side of that test tells you is that you have chlorine in the pool. Don’t try and read a color and value. Use the FAS/DPD chlorine test for all your FC testing right now.

Your ph is high as to be expected. Call it 8.2.

Looks normal for a newly plastered pool.

Ok I thought it wanted me to record a value for the yellow side. I don't know what FAS/DPD is. Is that the chlorine drop test?

Also what's the point of wasting chemicals on the yellow test? Won't there always be chlorine? Or is that supposed to just trigger another test if values are out of range? I'm failing to understand the purpose of doing that test daily if I'm not reading the value and recording it into pool math.

 

[Newdude]

Also, 3 and 5 under chlorine look like the exact same color to me...

Yeah. It's also not accurate. So we use the powder FC test.

I don't know what FAS/DPD is. Is that the chlorine drop test?

The fas/dpd is the powder test. You add a scoop of powder and then add drops. That's the accurate test which will tell you 8 FC (or whatevs). The block test is the yellow one you did, and saw its not very helpful. It still comes in handy because I hold the block from that side when testing PH.

 

[voidpointer]

because I hold the block from that side when testing PH.

lol. So I take it this means you don't bother running the yellow test, and just go with the weekly drop test?

 

[voidpointer]

Is the R0870 powder supposed to have a salt-like granularity/consistency? It was also kind of stuck together. I had to mix it around and break it apart.

 

[Newdude]

If you find it getting crystallized, break it up and put it in a zip lock or small Rubbermaid tub with some silica packs.

 

[voidpointer]

When you do the FC drop test, do you also do the CC test with it? The basic pool care schedule page doesn't explicitly call out this test; so I'm thinking maybe it's always implied when we talk about FC testing. Is that the case?

 

[ajw22]

Also what's the point of wasting chemicals on the yellow test?

You are not wasting chemicals if you do the OTO Chlorine test. That reagent is only for that test. If you don't use it then it just expires and goes to waste.

Won't there always be chlorine?

No, it may surprise you at times with no color or pale yellow indicating you have a low chlorine problem.

That test is like the canary in the coal mine. It is a quick test that tells you that your chlorine is probably ok. But if the yellow color is lower then expected then it is time to breakout the drop test.

Or is that supposed to just trigger another test if values are out of range? I'm failing to understand the purpose of doing that test daily if I'm not reading the value and recording it into pool math.

For now you should test daily using the chlorine drop test.

Once you get to know your pool and your FC is stable and predictable then you can do the quick OTO test daily and the drop test once or twice a week.

Just record the FC level from the drop test in PoolMath

 

[ajw22]

When you do the FC drop test, do you also do the CC test with it?

Yes, it is only a few more drops and takes another minute.

The basic pool care schedule page doesn't explicitly call out this test; so I'm thinking maybe it's always implied when we talk about FC testing. Is that the case?

Yes, the drop test is the only reliable FC test.

 

[voidpointer]

There doesn't appear to be a field to log CC or TC in PoolMath. Where am I supposed to record these after I run the CC test?

 

[voidpointer]

Oh there's a setting for it, looks like:

 

[ajw22]

There doesn't appear to be a field to log CC or TC in PoolMath. Where am I supposed to record these after I run the CC test?

Press the hambuger on the top right, scroll down, turn on Track Combined chlorine.

Also turn on Track CSI, Track Salt, and Track Water Temperature.

 

[voidpointer]

Press the hambuger on the top right, scroll down, turn on Track Combined chlorine.

Also turn on Track CSI, Track Salt, and Track Water Temperature.

For Track Salt: What do I put for Min, Target, and Max?

 

[ajw22]

For Track Salt: What do I put for Min, Target, and Max?

Min - 2600
Target - 3400
Max - 3800

 

[voidpointer]

How picky should I be about seeing the black dot on the CYA test? This feels a lot like the HDR blackness & brightness tests on TV screens... should it absolutely be completely unrecognizable? Or is just barely faint good enough? Right now at 50 CYA level it's still maybe 5% visible?

 

[voidpointer]

At about 45 (midway between 50 and 40 markers) I can't see it at all. Is it OK to record 45, or does it need to be only the numbers on the markers?