Hard W3H400FDN IF failure

PoolMoose

Member
May 13, 2021
5
DFW, Texas
Looking for ideas – IF error. Hayward W3H400FDN. Symptoms – runs sensor checks, fan spins up, ignitor glows, gas flows, but no flame (no heat at vent and no whoosh from burner light-off). Runs 3x then IF failure. I took Omni-logic connections off to eliminate this as an option.

What I have done:

  • Replaced gas valve (works, have verified flow during ignition cycle & 24V AC @ valve)
  • Replaced hot-surface ignitor
  • Replaced Flame sensor
  • Checked voltages and fuses
  • Tested flame sensor with torch
  • Removed and cleaned burners and gas orifices
  • Tried two Amazon “like-new” circuit boards – both had different failure (fan didn’t run , i.e. both were worse than my existing PCB)
Any ideas? Should the 24V at gas valve be constant or pulse? Mine seems to supply voltage for only a few seconds – is this normal as part of the start sequence, or could I have a bad transformer (it supplies proper voltage, but I can’t tell if it does so under load). My thought is it must be a bad circuit board, but before I spend $300+ on a new one, I wanted to see if I’m missing something else.
 
It's obvious that you are not getting ignition. How old is the heater? You seem to have covered a good portion of the reasons for the problem (cleaning) if done correctly. The time that the gas valve is powered and "open" should be listed on the Fenwal ignition control as "ignition", "trial for ignition" et al and is normally about 7 sec. give or take. Do you smell raw gas at the venting discharge as the heater is attempting to ignite? You can check fo excessive voltage drop and powered time consistent with the Fenwal label at the gas valve when powered with a meter set to AC volts. If you have an excessive voltage drop it would be consistent with a sticking gas valve solenoid valve( possibly partially opened). An excessive voltage drop would also show as an excessive Amp draw when compared to the Amp rating listed on the gas valve. One of the things that you have not checked is the inlet gas valve pressure both static and with the gas valve open and also the manifold gas valve valve pressure ( at the gas valve outlet ) when the heater is attempting to ignite. Would be happy to help you further as long as you feel both safe and comfortable testing electrically and with natural gas.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Have you check the gas pressure using a manometer at the gas valve?

What is the story behind the heater? How old is it? Is it new to you? When did it last work?

What is the CFM of your house gas meter?

Post a pic of the data plate on your gas meter.

Post pics of your heater.
 
Thank you for your reply. I am not certain of the heater age (I recently purchased this home) but I would guess it is about 6-8 years old. It last worked approximately 3 months ago (last time we used spa). I will post pictures as requested I did check input gas pressure (before changing the NG valve). It was approximately 7"" WC, but I returned the manometer to my friend when I decided to replace the gas valve (thinking the new one would be calibrated). The old gas valve was defective (I could not hear the valve open like I can now). As far as smelling gas at the vent - I do not - I assume it is the high air mix from the draft induction fan because I did test the gas valve before installing in the burner (just vented above heater) and I could smell/hear the gas then. Note that I did not replace with a Hayward part. I used to work in commercial HVAC thus I had a friend of a friend get me a wholesale equivalent Honeywell valve. The ~7 seconds seems correct then for the initial gas release. I have watched the voltage during the ignition sequence and do not see a significant drop during the 7 second period (it was always approx 27 VAC). As far as burner cleaning I removed the burner orifices and blew out with compressed air, then removed all SS burner tubes, removed minor corrosion with steel wool and cleaned with compressed air. There was only minor corrosion - mainly at the burners most distant from the gas valve. If you think the issue may be outlet pressure related I can get the manometer back and check next weekend. One question for you - you mention the Fenwel ignition control. Does this refer to the control on the gas valve or the Hayward control board?
 
Welcome to TFP.

Have you check the gas pressure using a manometer at the gas valve?

What is the story behind the heater? How old is it? Is it new to you? When did it last work?

What is the CFM of your house gas meter?

Post a pic of the data plate on your gas meter.

Post pics of your heater.
 

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It was approximately 7"" WC, but I returned the manometer to my friend when I decided to replace the gas valve (thinking the new one would be calibrated).

What is the gas pressure after the gas valve opens?
 
Well you solved it - The gas pressure was very high and could not be adjusted with the gas valve - It turned out that the problem was a faulty pressure regulator in the pool plumbing outside the heater.
:goodjob:
 
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