Hack My Pool

Ah ha - so I have been missing some context - good to have.

I just went to 7... I will add an additional 10 oz to get me to 9. And then I'll check a FC rate in about 20ish mins and see if that helped.
 
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Never ever let FC go below 5. That would be like falling off a cliff and allowing algae to start up again.

Dose FC for the HIGH end of the target range - especially this time of year when you will probably lose 4 or more ppm of chlorine daily. If you start off at the high end of the FC target range and still see your FC approaching minimum before addimg more chlorine, increase the FC target a few points to compensate. Remember, the
FC/CYA Levels chart is just a starting point and PoolMath is just a calculator. You are the one making decisions to keep your chemicals balanced and your pool sanitary. If you need to dose chlorine a few points above target range to keep FC from dropping below minimum - DO IT. If in doubt as to a high FC loss, do the
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm if you have an issue or not.

You may want to come up with a more permanent polyfill setup. Find a bucket with a screw on lid - an old empty Trichlor bucket would work well as they have a screw on lid. As a local pool store or pool guy for an empty bucket (no need explaining what your intended use is). Gather up polyfill to replace the used stuff with. Rig it up so it can be in place permanently (or at least semi-permanently). Having it on the ladder makes it difficult to get in/out of the pool. :ROFLMAO:
 
Step by step we got you! YOU are doing all of the work and doing a great job! We are just the support team. I am trying to think of how to get the rust out of the new water before it ever gets to your pool. I am kicking around a couple of ideas but nothing solid yet.

I am thinking of a big rain barrel on a platform. Add the water to the barrel and treat it with chlorine. THEN put that water into the pool using the poly bucket. If anyone has any ideas lets throw them at her to see what sticks are the best, easiest, safest way to add clear water to the pool.
 
I’m a visual person… I have 2 goals it sounds like with chemicals, and 1 with fill water.

Lets tackle chem goals:
Keep FC above 5:

Check FC balance in PM, increase beyond Target based on CYA, so that if it falls, it stays within range. So nightly run a FC, CC and CYA (when still plenty of day light)

This morning’s panel:
FC is 10 (probably nulls the PH…)
CC is 1

PH rise to 8+, work down to 7.2, and get CYA in check
Morning PH is above an 8
IMG_7820.jpeg

So with a likely invalid PH reading due to high FC, do I:
1. adjust PH with muriatic acid
2. let FC fall until it’s below 10?

PART 2: FILL WATER
My neighbor is a plumber, and he’s been laughing at my woes for the last week or so. I’m gonna bring him a coffee, sit on his porch, and we’re gonna come up with a plan.

I think a 5 gallon bucket, with poly… hose entered into bottom, holes cut in lid - may be our best solution.

If not, I was reading on those Pentek filters that attach to the hose. That might be a solid solution that keeps buckets off my ladder and from “nuclear football” falling into my pool…
 
So with a likely invalid PH reading due to high FC, do I:
1. adjust PH with muriatic acid
2. let FC fall until it’s below 10?
2.

Once you've been at this a bit, and you absolutely know it's at least a high 7 if it isn't 8, then you can dose your regular recent dose of that time and no harm will be done because point4 would still safely lower you from 7.6 or 7.8. Only do one of those based upon a strong feeling and make sure to get a valid reading the 2nd time.
 
* you'll know when you're there. You'll come say 'Dude, it's my 18th rodeo and my gut was dead on the last 10 times. I'm busy tomorrow and need to beat it to the punch. Can I trust my gut ?'

And you'll get a :salut: from me.
 
I think you meant keep fc in check- for the daily stuff. Cya doesn’t change that much so no need to test it daily.
Checking it every couple weeks is fine unless you have replaced alot of water due to splashout, draining, or backwashing.
Replacing Evaporation loss doesn’t affect cya.
Chlorine is king 🤴 (keep it well above minimum so you never fall in the no zone)
&
ph is queen 👸 (aim for the 7’s)
 
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I feel like I am getting a lot of info thrown at me and I am not sure where to put it.

Let's see if I can arrange this in a way to make sense for me... Using PoolMath...

👑Chlorine 👑
We measure Free Chlorine Daily
My target range 5-9 (Per PM)
Goal: If it falls below 7, overshoot to compensate for 3PPM loss (Jessie's Brain: so if we're at a 6, shoot for a 10, so that if it falls 3 ppm, we're still at a 7)

💎pH💎
We measure pH Daily - it's only reliable when FC is below 10
My target range 7.2 - 7.6 (Per PM)
Goal: If it gets too high, we can drop with Muriatic acid (0.4 at a time). If it gets too low, JUMP IN AND SWIM (aka aerate)

SEPARATE OF ALL THAT....

@PoolStored mentioned (I think): Because my TA is high - like 250... it's going to chew through my PH (correct?) So I have to get pH low (7.2, let is rise; drop again, let it rise; rinse/repeate) and that will naturally get my TA in "check"?

Sneak peek to my brain... 🧠
 
@PoolStored mentioned (I think): Because my TA is high - like 250... it's going to chew through my PH (correct?) So I have to get pH low (7.2, let is rise; drop again, let it rise; rinse/repeate) and that will naturally get my TA in "check"?

We measure pH Daily - it's only reliable when FC is below 10
My target range 7.2 - 7.6 (Per PM)
Goal: If it gets too high, we can drop with Muriatic acid (0.4 at a time). If it gets too low, JUMP IN AND SWIM (aka aerate)
All of this is generally correct. However, it doesn't chew pH. High TA means you will have a more rapid pH rise.

Reduce pH to 7.2 and wait for it to rise to 8, rinse and repeat. Your TA will come down as you do this. When you get to a TA of about 80...STOP reducing pH to 7.2. Just keep it about 7.8-8.0 and the pH rise should slow or stop. When you get to TA 80, don't reduce your pH to 7.2 any more.
 
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(Jessie's Brain: so if we're at a 6, shoot for a 10, so that if it falls 3 ppm, we're still at a 7)
f2c3c822-e8b6-4987-b083-9d9815cfebd3_text.gif

*except Jessie.


And with the above mindset, we have time to fiddle with anything else until it all clicks and you just know it.
 
All of this is generally correct. However, it doesn't chew pH. High TA means you will have a more rapid pH rise.

Reduce pH to 7.2 and wait for it to rise to 8, rinse and repeat. Your TA will come down as you do this. When you get to a TA of about 80...STOP reducing pH to 7.2. Just keep it about 7.8-8.0 and the pH rise should slow or stop. When you get to TA 80, don't reduce your pH to 7.2 any more.
Okay - so for right now - since I'm at a high FC - I can't get an accurate read on Ph.
So wait for FC to come down, get an accurate Ph, bring Ph down to 7.2; and rest. Once Ph rises again, bring it back down to 7.2. Keep going until TA 80...

I need an Apple Watch app for this. Here is your 10 AM Alert to check your PH. Here is your 2 PM Alert to check your PH. 🤓
 
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I feel like I am getting a lot of info thrown at me and I am not sure where to put it.

Let's see if I can arrange this in a way to make sense for me... Using PoolMath...

👑Chlorine 👑
We measure Free Chlorine Daily
My target range 5-9 (Per PM)
Goal: If it falls below 7, overshoot to compensate for 3PPM loss (Jessie's Brain: so if we're at a 6, shoot for a 10, so that if it falls 3 ppm, we're still at a 7)
Yes 🙌
💎pH💎
We measure pH Daily - it's only reliable when FC is below 10
My target range 7.2 - 7.6 (Per PM)
Goal: If it gets too high, we can drop with Muriatic acid (0.4 at a time). If it gets too low, JUMP IN AND SWIM (aka aerate)
Absolutely 👍🏻
SEPARATE OF ALL THAT....

@PoolStored mentioned (I think): Because my TA is high - like 250... it's going to chew through my PH (correct?) So I have to get pH low (7.2, let is rise; drop again, let it rise; rinse/repeate) and that will naturally get my TA in "check"?

Sneak peek to my brain... 🧠
yup 👍🏻
Don’t overthink it - manage your ph & the ta will fall overtime.
High ta doesn’t “hurt” anything, just causes ph to rise quickly.
 
You got it...but there is no reason to fuss over TA...it doesn't harm anything...just makes pH rise when TA is high.

You don't HAVE to lower it, it will come down over time. Just keep lowering to 7.2 until TA hits 80, then keep pH around 7.8-8.0
 
View attachment 584299

*except Jessie.


And with the above mindset, we have time to fiddle with anything else until it all clicks and you just know it.
Great movie, BTW. Leave it to Jules to show up and make us feel intelligent. (Royale with cheese anyone??)

I'm trying my best to keep up - and truthfully - this is a LOT more than I ever thought was required to manage a pool. BUT I am glad to put in the work - I'm learning a ton, my kids are getting involved in the chemistry and measurements (which my son loves - he's big on STEM); my daughter claims to have failed chemistry (but we all know that's a lie).
 
Y'all know how to make a girl feel smart...

Friends Lol GIF by Max
 
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Work on the ph when you have time, daily is plenty.
10ppm fc or below is ok to adjust ph.
The deal is that the higher the fc the less reliable the ph test gets- usually reading higher than actual so you just don’t want to tank your ph by relying on a falsely high number.
You’re lowering in increments of 0.4 so this is unlikely to occur even if your fc is 10 or 11. Since your ta is currently so high.
Once the ta gets under 80 or so this will be more of a concern.
Just check ph daily before you add your fc.
Adjust both as needed & move on to other things like enjoying your pool!
 

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