I put Green to Blue system shock in over two weeks ago. Followed the directions to a tee. After two days of vacuuming, letting the sediment settle, rinsing filter, etc it still had a layer of whitish sediment on the bottom. Two weeks later, I am STILL vacuuming daily with a battery vacuum, rinsing filter at least twice a day and it is STILL GRAY and lots of sediment. I can only let the pump run for about an hour after backwash and rinse before the pressure goes back up to 30. HELP!!
Green to Blue shock nightmare
- Thread starter Lleonard
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,965
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
To kill and remove algae we at this forum recommend the SLAM Process. The "Green to Blue" product you used is not recommended. In fact, some of those have floc in them which complicates matters even worse, especially if the floc made it to the sand in which case it could ruin the sand.
Do you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit to provide accurate water test results? That would be step #1 for us to help guide you through a SLAM Process. See the link below for more info.
www.troublefreepool.com
To kill and remove algae we at this forum recommend the SLAM Process. The "Green to Blue" product you used is not recommended. In fact, some of those have floc in them which complicates matters even worse, especially if the floc made it to the sand in which case it could ruin the sand.Do you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit to provide accurate water test results? That would be step #1 for us to help guide you through a SLAM Process. See the link below for more info.
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com
Ok it looks like all are low Other than hardness which is highWelcome to TFP!
Do you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit to provide accurate water test results? That would be step #1 for us to help guide you through a SLAM Process. See the link below for more info.
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
Where does the water/yuck the vacuum picks up go? Does it go to the filter (what kind of filter) or does it go out of the pool?
Can you please list your test results like this:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Thanks!
The vacuum is a separate tank that gets emptied outside of pool. When I vacuum, it creates a cloud. The de filter is grabbing some just from circulation. The filters are yellowish and the muck from the vacuum is the same color and sandy texture.
Hardness 500
Total chlorine 1
Free chlorine 1
Ph6.2
Alkalinity 0
Stabilizer 0
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You need to get your pH up and add some TA quickly or you can damage your pool surfaces and equipment.
Use PoolMath (either the app or the link at the bottom of this page that says "Old PoolMath Webpage") to figure out how much to add, depending on your pool volume. You want your TA to be at least 50 and your pH to be in the low 7's.
You also need to add stabilizer and chlorine. If you're testing with a good kit, stabilizer will show as 0 for any value below 20-30. So I would only add about 20ppm of CYA and get that dissolving (put into an old sock or stocking and suspend in the pool in front of a return, a bit in front of the pool wall so it doesn't rest against it). For chlorine, start with getting about 5ppm of FC in the pool while you get the pH and TA in line. Once you've confirmed your pH and TA to be where they need to be, and the CYA is dissolving, you can start the SLAM Process.
What's likely happening is that you're adding enough chlorine to fight the algae but not to completely eradicate it. So it multiplies and make more. You add more chlorine and kills more, and makes more dead algae for you to clear up, but doesn't get rid of it completely, so it just repeats. You need to get your pH and TA under control and then follow that SLAM Process to clean it up completely.
Also, please fill out your signature - see mine for reference. (If you're on a mobile device, turn sideways to see signatures.) It will help us with guiding you to a clear pool.
Use PoolMath (either the app or the link at the bottom of this page that says "Old PoolMath Webpage") to figure out how much to add, depending on your pool volume. You want your TA to be at least 50 and your pH to be in the low 7's.
You also need to add stabilizer and chlorine. If you're testing with a good kit, stabilizer will show as 0 for any value below 20-30. So I would only add about 20ppm of CYA and get that dissolving (put into an old sock or stocking and suspend in the pool in front of a return, a bit in front of the pool wall so it doesn't rest against it). For chlorine, start with getting about 5ppm of FC in the pool while you get the pH and TA in line. Once you've confirmed your pH and TA to be where they need to be, and the CYA is dissolving, you can start the SLAM Process.
What's likely happening is that you're adding enough chlorine to fight the algae but not to completely eradicate it. So it multiplies and make more. You add more chlorine and kills more, and makes more dead algae for you to clear up, but doesn't get rid of it completely, so it just repeats. You need to get your pH and TA under control and then follow that SLAM Process to clean it up completely.
Also, please fill out your signature - see mine for reference. (If you're on a mobile device, turn sideways to see signatures.) It will help us with guiding you to a clear pool.
The stuff you used should NOT go through your filter. It can gunk it up and may cause you to have to replace the cartridge.
It is going to take some S.L.O.W. vacuuming to get that stuff up and out. If you try to go too fast it will cloud up the the water. It will a process to get it all cleared up.
How are you testing your water?
It is going to take some S.L.O.W. vacuuming to get that stuff up and out. If you try to go too fast it will cloud up the the water. It will a process to get it all cleared up.
How are you testing your water?
They were. I got everything up to where it should be now using the pool math app. Doubling checking this am
I have to double check this morning, but levels were where they should be last night. Used the pool math app you suggested. Thank you. As of last night, water was bright blue, very cloudy. Filter sprayed and ran for an hour before 30 pressure again. Going to fill out signature. So appreciate the help on this.You need to get your pH up and add some TA quickly or you can damage your pool surfaces and equipment.
Use PoolMath (either the app or the link at the bottom of this page that says "Old PoolMath Webpage") to figure out how much to add, depending on your pool volume. You want your TA to be at least 50 and your pH to be in the low 7's.
You also need to add stabilizer and chlorine. If you're testing with a good kit, stabilizer will show as 0 for any value below 20-30. So I would only add about 20ppm of CYA and get that dissolving (put into an old sock or stocking and suspend in the pool in front of a return, a bit in front of the pool wall so it doesn't rest against it). For chlorine, start with getting about 5ppm of FC in the pool while you get the pH and TA in line. Once you've confirmed your pH and TA to be where they need to be, and the CYA is dissolving, you can start the SLAM Process.
What's likely happening is that you're adding enough chlorine to fight the algae but not to completely eradicate it. So it multiplies and make more. You add more chlorine and kills more, and makes more dead algae for you to clear up, but doesn't get rid of it completely, so it just repeats. You need to get your pH and TA under control and then follow that SLAM Process to clean it up completely.
Also, please fill out your signature - see mine for reference. (If you're on a mobile device, turn sideways to see signatures.) It will help us with guiding you to a clear pool.
You need to get your pH up and add some TA quickly or you can damage your pool surfaces and equipment.
Use PoolMath (either the app or the link at the bottom of this page that says "Old PoolMath Webpage") to figure out how much to add, depending on your pool volume. You want your TA to be at least 50 and your pH to be in the low 7's.
You also need to add stabilizer and chlorine. If you're testing with a good kit, stabilizer will show as 0 for any value below 20-30. So I would only add about 20ppm of CYA and get that dissolving (put into an old sock or stocking and suspend in the pool in front of a return, a bit in front of the pool wall so it doesn't rest against it). For chlorine, start with getting about 5ppm of FC in the pool while you get the pH and TA in line. Once you've confirmed your pH and TA to be where they need to be, and the CYA is dissolving, you can start the SLAM Process.
What's likely happening is that you're adding enough chlorine to fight the algae but not to completely eradicate it. So it multiplies and make more. You add more chlorine and kills more, and makes more dead algae for you to clear up, but doesn't get rid of it completely, so it just repeats. You need to get your pH and TA under control and then follow that SLAM Process to clean it up completely.
Also, please fill out your signature - see mine for reference. (If you're on a mobile device, turn sideways to see signatures.) It will help us with guiding you to a clear pool.
Attachments
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
She’s asking what test you’re using. Are you testing yourself and if so what kit are you using?
Oh. It's 7 in 1 from Leslie's. (Hardness, chlorine. Bromine, free chlorine, pH, alkalinity, Stabilizer). Stabilizer is only adjustment needed now. None in stores so delivery tomorrow.
You need a good drop based test kit, like the TF100 affiliated with this site or Taylor K2006. You can’t rely on Leslie’s for pool testing or advice. We can’t really help you until you get reliable test results and post them in the format requested. At the moment you are just throwing darts in the dark.
Don't add any CYA until you can reliably test it yourself with a drop based kit.
Your test strip's reading of 0, 30-50, 100, 150, 200 don't tell you a thing. If you overshoot due to not having a clue, you'll be draining. Possibly a good chunk, or the whole pool.
The drop test kit is on its way also. So far, I've done what everyone has suggested, and IT'S WORKING! HALLELUJAH! The pump has been running for 2 hours with no issue. Still some sediment, but water is looking blue, not gray. Once test kit comes, I'll update. Thanks so much so far 
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Once you get the drop test kit you can really start to work on the SLAM Process. Until then, you're pretty much playing darts blindfolded. You might hit the board or you might put a bunch of holes in the wall behind it. The kit is removing the blindfold and letting you be a lot more targeted in your chemical additions.