Green Algae keeps returning

RickRude

Well-known member
May 16, 2022
54
Dallas
Pool Size
21500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
As a fellow newcomer to this forum, I understand that it's hard to believe why a such a large initial investment into a test kit is needed. For you it's probably even harder to stomach after your pool store experience - now you have a different group of people, strangers on the internet no less, telling you to spend $100+ for a test kit when you can go test at the store for free. But this step is 100% necessary, and >100% worth it. Yes, >100%: the amount you save by doing your own testing and not buying pool store products will offset the cost of the test kit.

So get the test kit. Follow the processes detailed on this site. Ask any and all questions. And post pictures of your pool once it's returned to health. Before-and-after photos are the best!
 

Newdude

Mod Squad
Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
17,172
NY
+1. This is what we do, on the cheap
How Clear is TFP Clear?

We need to all be on the same page with drop based test kits and we can guide you there and be your training wheels for as long as you need master your own pool. You can assemble each component of the testing from Amazon for $35 each, or buy them together in a package seen here. Test Kits Compared

We got you. But you need to help us help you. :)
 

jseyfert3

Silver Supporter
Bronze Supporter
TFP Guide
Oct 20, 2017
1,965
Southern WI
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Do you know exactly what types of products you've added? I ask only because some algae products add bromine, and bromine added to a chlorine pool makes it a bromine pool. The issue with this is that while CYA stabilizes chlorine and keeps it from breaking down as fast in the UV light from the sun, bromine has no such similar stabilizer. Once the hypobromous acid does it's oxidizing magic, you end up with bromine ions (Br-). This is similar to how once hypochlorous acid oxidizes waste, you end up with chloride ions (Cl-). The issue is that once there's bromine ions in the water, as soon as you add chlorine the chlorine reacts immediately with the bromine ions and turns them into hypobromous acid, neutralizing the chlorine. Now there's no chlorine, just bromine, and while the bromine is fine for keeping the pool clean, it breaks down super fast in the UV light of the sun.

The only way to remove bromine once added, is to do a complete drain and fill of the pool. Unfortunately, nobody ever tells you this when they sell you products that contain bromine! I see you were draining, if you did a 100% drain and fill there's no need to worry about what you may have added, but if you added bromine products and only did a 75% drain this may still be an issue. So if you know what was added, we should be able to help you figure out if this is an issue or not. Again though, if you did a 100% drain and fill, no need to worry about this anymore.

I don't know much about plaster pools, but I know being dry is bad for the plaster, so get the pool refilled as soon as you can.

Oh, and welcome to the forum! :) :cheers:

I see @Newdude has already linked my favorite link on all the crystal clear pools from all the TFP members already. Cause I would have linked it had he not done so already. :ROFLMAO:
 

MajorS

Member
Apr 9, 2022
11
Etiwanda,CA
Don’t forget to clean your filter as well so you don’t reintroduce algae.
I’m not sure about the spotting- could be if you didn’t wash off the chlorine as you scrubbed as i’d guess it would lighten the area if you drenched it and left it there. Hopefully it will look ok once you finish filling.
Hi Kul,
Cleaned the filters, skimmer and spa. I started refilling it last night and I am about 75% filled. I be pulling the salt cell out and have it tested tonight along with the pool water. Is there anything special I should after the pool is filled with water but before using it?
 

kul

Bronze Supporter
Oct 1, 2021
630
Los Angeles
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
First thing to do is to provide your test results after your fill so everyone can help you and immediately add chlorine per pool math app after you bring your PH down to 7.2 with Muriatic acid. It’s time to start your slam!! :whoot:
PoolMath
FC/CYA Chart
 
Last edited:

HermanTX

Gold Supporter
May 20, 2020
3,768
Katy TX
Pool Size
14600
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hi Kul,
Cleaned the filters, skimmer and spa. I started refilling it last night and I am about 75% filled. I be pulling the salt cell out and have it tested tonight along with the pool water. Is there anything special I should after the pool is filled with water but before using it?
@MajorS While it is good to get your salt cell tested, it will not be needed for the SLAM. All you will use is liquid chlorine (LC).
  1. Once your pool fills, perform all tests and post those results back to the forum.
  2. You want to reread the info in post 24 by @jseyfert3 - hopefully none of that comes into play
  3. You want to get your pH in the 7.2 range.
  4. Your CYA will be low (hopefully). Test that as well. You will need stabilizer to get it up to 30 if it is not already there.
  5. Then based on your CYA (after making any adjustments if necessary) you will want to add LC to reach the SLAM level for that CYA value.
  6. Then you will test every couple of hours during the day to keep the FC level high. The more you test and adjust the FC to SLAM level, the quicker the process.
 
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