Got my k-2006c today. Crud results...

[shaneymack]

Only way you can reduce CH is by doing a water exchange. That stuff they gave you just keeps everything in suspension and you have to use it weekly.

Well that is complete nonsense. I definitely wont be using it then. Thanks

 

[shaneymack]

So I added 8L of acid yesterday and here are my results this am. For some reason I cannot save the CSI but it said 0.25 once I entered water temp and salt. There is nowhere to click save though.


What would be my next step ? Add CYA ? Another few gallons of acid ?

 

[RMcGirr83]

To save your results you hit the "new log" button and enter your readings.

I wouldn't do anything to the water just yet, let the PH rise first as your TA is a bit high (your TA is a bit high and your PH is to low). Once PH gets to 8 or so, then use acid to bring both down. Rinse and repeat until your TA is in the 70 to 80 range. Don't worry about the CH, FC or CYA reading just yet.

 

[shaneymack]

To save your results you hit the "new log" button and enter your readings.

I wouldn't do anything to the water just yet, let the PH rise first as your TA is a bit high (your TA is a bit high and your PH is to low). Once PH gets to 8 or so, then use acid to bring both down. Rinse and repeat until your TA is in the 70 to 80 range. Don't worry about the CH, FC or CYA reading just yet.

Here are a few pics of my water from this morning. Will this little bit of fogginess clear up? Was it because TA was too high ?

 

[IceShadow]

Nope, that's just normal cloudiness that will clear up as you filter and keep your FC where it should be. If you have a return at the deep end, I would point the eyeball in the return down to make sure that water is getting mixed up into the shallow water and pulled into your filter.

By the way, when you measure FC and CC, use a 10ml sample and one scoop of powder. Each drop is 0.5ppm. Will save you reagents.

Are you still SLAMming? CYA is low, but really low if you're running the SWG and looking to use that for chlorine at this point.

 

[shaneymack]

Nope, that's just normal cloudiness that will clear up as you filter and keep your FC where it should be. If you have a return at the deep end, I would point the eyeball in the return down to make sure that water is getting mixed up into the shallow water and pulled into your filter.

By the way, when you measure FC and CC, use a 10ml sample and one scoop of powder. Each drop is 0.5ppm. Will save you reagents.

Are you still SLAMming? CYA is low, but really low if you're running the SWG and looking to use that for chlorine at this point.

I will switch to the 10ml samples, thanks for the pointer.

I never SLAMmed the pool. It is a brand new pool that was finished last week and was a fresh fill from 3 tankers.

 

[IceShadow]

OK - are you using the SWG to generate chlorine yet, or just using liquid chlorine for the time being?

If the water is cloudy it might be worth SLAMming. Even if it's a fresh fill it shouldn't be cloudy like that, and it might indicate organics. Your call but if I were in your shoes I'd probably do it to be safe.

Also, your signature says 23' x 20' x 36', which means 36' deep - you might mean 3', or 36". (Yes, we use a dumb system here in the US. )

 

[shaneymack]

OK - are you using the SWG to generate chlorine yet, or just using liquid chlorine for the time being?

If the water is cloudy it might be worth SLAMming. Even if it's a fresh fill it shouldn't be cloudy like that, and it might indicate organics. Your call but if I were in your shoes I'd probably do it to be safe.

Also, your signature says 23' x 20' x 36', which means 36' deep - you might mean 3', or 36". (Yes, we use a dumb system here in the US. )

I am using the SWG only. I had put one gallon of Purex in on the day that my SWG was not functional. If i had organics would I not have a reading of CC because I was at 0 last this am.

The pool as per my bill is a 23x20x36. 23 ft wide in the shallow end, 20 ft wide in the deep end and 36 ft long. The pool is 8ft deep in the deep end and 3ft to 4ft deep over 16ft deep (beach slope) in the shallow. How would you recommend I write the pool description to help you guys help me?

Btw, your help is amazing and you are greatly appreciated. Id be a lot more stressed about this pool chemistry stuff if it wasnt for you and all the helpful people on here.

EDIT- Also concerning the cloudiness, there was a bunch of concrete and concrete dust that was dumped in the pool when they poured all the concrete last week FYI

 

[IceShadow]

I would put it in as:

20' - 23' x 36' x 3' - 8'

That might help alleviate confusion. It's not as important as the overall volume, but it will help us OCD types.

With a SWG we recommend getting the CYA up to 60-70ppm. This will help the generator keep up with the sun and let you run it less to keep it working longer, as my understanding is that SWG cells will eventually die out and need to be replaced. I see you tested at 20ppm of CYA today - when was the last time you added? If over 48 hours that should be pretty accurate and you could add 40ppm. (Better to be under and re-test in 48 hours to check, than to be over! Being over can only be corrected by draining, being under can be corrected by adding more.)

 

[IceShadow]

Also, CC can be 0 with organics. It just means that your FC and sun exposure is high enough to burn off any CCs you do have before they can register on the test. An overnight chlorine loss test is usually the best indication of organics, though even that can be off. But, if you're confident the cloudiness isn't organic, then I would just keep the water mixing and filtering and keep the FC where it is and get the CYA up to where it should be for a SWG pool.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You need to track Temp on the App so the CSI will calculate it.

 

[mguzzy]

I would put it in as:

20' - 23' x 36' x 3' - 8'

That might help alleviate confusion. It's not as important as the overall volume, but it will help us OCD types.

With a SWG we recommend getting the CYA up to 60-70ppm. This will help the generator keep up with the sun and let you run it less to keep it working longer, as my understanding is that SWG cells will eventually die out and need to be replaced. I see you tested at 20ppm of CYA today - when was the last time you added? If over 48 hours that should be pretty accurate and you could add 40ppm. (Better to be under and re-test in 48 hours to check, than to be over! Being over can only be corrected by draining, being under can be corrected by adding more.)

Yes.. your SWG cell will need to be replaced.. years down the road. I got more than 9 years out of my first Tcell15. I'm on my second. The longevity really depends on your usage. And you won't know your usage until you live with it for a while. Also, you will find once you get your pool chem dialed in the SWG will make you lazy since it creates CL at a nice slow constant rate. You will find yourself going.. "Awe, no reason to test this week/today since it was the same that last 10 times." A nice consistent log will allow you identify something out of the norm as soon as it happens.... just sayn'

BTW: I was really hoping it was a 36 feet deep pool. Cause I was going to seek you out and bring my SCUBA classes to your pool and practice free ascents.

 

[shaneymack]

I would put it in as:

20' - 23' x 36' x 3' - 8'

That might help alleviate confusion. It's not as important as the overall volume, but it will help us OCD types.

With a SWG we recommend getting the CYA up to 60-70ppm. This will help the generator keep up with the sun and let you run it less to keep it working longer, as my understanding is that SWG cells will eventually die out and need to be replaced. I see you tested at 20ppm of CYA today - when was the last time you added? If over 48 hours that should be pretty accurate and you could add 40ppm. (Better to be under and re-test in 48 hours to check, than to be over! Being over can only be corrected by draining, being under can be corrected by adding more.)

Signature modified, much better now LOL.

I added those weird cylinder things that the pool store gave me. I added 12 of those but apparently it didnt do much for the CYA. I bought 3 KG of stabilizer yesterday from Home Depot (No ingredients.) I added around 1 KG this morning by hanging it in front of a return . When should I test CYA again? Tomorrow or will it show up today?

 

[shaneymack]

Also, CC can be 0 with organics. It just means that your FC and sun exposure is high enough to burn off any CCs you do have before they can register on the test. An overnight chlorine loss test is usually the best indication of organics, though even that can be off. But, if you're confident the cloudiness isn't organic, then I would just keep the water mixing and filtering and keep the FC where it is and get the CYA up to where it should be for a SWG pool.

I am not confident of anything, just trying to give all the facts. The water was pretty nice and then they did the concrete pour and it got cloudy over a few days and now is clearing up after 2-3 really nasty backwashes and running the robot 3x. I will do an OCLT next week .

 

[jwhop3]

Pool store will do anything to sell you panther Tick. Trust your results, commit to only using bleach, baking soda or Borax to balance. The best method of adding stabilizer is to fill an old sock with the granules and tie it under your ladder near a return jet.

 

[jwhop3]

I am not confident of anything, just trying to give all the facts. The water was pretty nice and then they did the concrete pour and it got cloudy over a few days and now is clearing up after 2-3 really nasty backwashes and running the robot 3x. I will do an OCLT next week .

I've experience cloudy or more like hazy water whenever the pH gets too high. After a heavy rainy week, it got up to 8.0 like yours was. Once I balanced with Jasco muriatic acid from Lowes, it cleared right up.

 

[shaneymack]

You need to track Temp on the App so the CSI will calculate it.

Ok , that makes sense. I will make the change. Thank you.

 

[shaneymack]

I've experience cloudy or more like hazy water whenever the pH gets too high. After a heavy rainy week, it got up to 8.0 like yours was. Once I balanced with Jasco muriatic acid from Lowes, it cleared right up.

Im very happy to hear that, I hope that is the only issue I have at this point. Thanks.

And ill do my best to stay away from the panther Tick !!! LMAO

 

[frogabog]

Did you ask your pool guy for powder or liquid stabilizer? Those sticks are weird... If you put the 12 in and they've dissolved, you should be showing some kind of increase in CYA. Are you getting a solid 20ppm now rather than filling the tube and the dot never going away as you reported a few days ago?

Also, I made a mistake on the stabilizer brand. I have used HTH in the past, but this time I bought Chlorox brand from Amazon. It worked as expected and dissolved rapidly although I am a little suspect of Chlorox brand in general (I may have been drunk when ordering it last month...). Still, I'd ask the pool guy to give you some for free. Give him that bottle of GBH oddity back next time you see him.

I switched my country on Amazon to Canada and did find that the Chlorox stabilizer can be shipped. It's $25.xx a bottle though, not $14.xx. Chlorox Stabilizer for Canada

 

[shaneymack]

Yes.. your SWG cell will need to be replaced.. years down the road. I got more than 9 years out of my first Tcell15. I'm on my second. The longevity really depends on your usage. And you won't know your usage until you live with it for a while. Also, you will find once you get your pool chem dialed in the SWG will make you lazy since it creates CL at a nice slow constant rate. You will find yourself going.. "Awe, no reason to test this week/today since it was the same that last 10 times." A nice consistent log will allow you identify something out of the norm as soon as it happens.... just sayn'

BTW: I was really hoping it was a 36 feet deep pool. Cause I was going to seek you out and bring my SCUBA classes to your pool and practice free ascents.

And Im assuming my SWG will last even longer since I am only using it 5 months of the year.

Sorry for the confusion on the pool depth LOL