Giving TFP a Try

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Hi everyone. I purchased a home about a month ago with a pool and have learned ALOT about pool chemistry. I feel like I have a good understanding of the basics, but am still wrestling with addressing what the previous owner left me with. First, I will purchase the TF-100 kit asap to insure my results are accurate. Right now, I am testing with an older taylor kit they left (expired?) and a new bottle of strips (I know). Right off the bat I could not keep my FC levels up at all. Pool store tests showed that my CYA was 180. I did a 25% drain and then a 50% drain and have brought it down to 60ppm. However, I am still having trouble with FC levels. Based on my strips, my TC is roughly 1ppm higher than my zeroed FC, so I understand that I am experiencing chlorine demand. Pool store has told me to drain 50% again as their chlorine demand test they ran shows I need to add 28gals of liquid chlorine to break the demand. How does this compare to "Slamming" the pool? Do you recommend a drain again or is there another option (that doesn't involve $$$$$ of chemicals). I am on well water, so the cost to refill is minimal, but it feels like such a waste of water and I'm afraid I will still be in the same boat afterwards. Thoughts?

Also, I am curious how much you typically spend on your pool a week using this method? Do you open and close yourself as well? I am a DIYer through and through, but have been leaning on pool stores last month as I didn't have anywhere else to go to learn. I have already started buying my chemicals elsewhere once I understood their make up, but this method seems even more straight forward and cost effective.

Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
'Chlorine Demand' is a pool store term that means, nothing.
What does your water look like?
When you get your TF100 kit, run a full set of tests and post them here.
In the meantime, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each evening with the pump running.

I have a SWCG. And a robot. I spend at most 15 minutes a week on my pool maintenance. Excluding the one time each year I clean my cartridge filters and when I need to exchange my pool water to fresh water due to calcium build up in the water.
Our pool is open year around.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Thanks mknauss! I haven’t used liquid chlorine yet. Can you help me understand the pros/cons? I know gradual tri and di add CYA and cal hypo adds calcium. What is the impact of liquid? Salt? High ph? Any issues with that?

Also, the pool store said adding chlorine at this point only increases the demand unless I get up and over the “breaking point”. It doesn’t look like SLAM takes that stance. Is it ok to add?

 

[mknauss]

Liquid chlorine is sodium hypochlorite. All it adds to your pool is chlorine and salt. And of course, water.
No issues. It is pH neutral.

Breaking point is another pool store term.

What does your water look like?

Add the 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each evening as described above.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

It is pretty green now. I did the water change Saturday and shocked it with calhypo. No FC so I shocked it with more Sunday night (3lbs/20000gal). Swam with family Monday. Added some shock (1lb). Then Tuesday pool store opened and said needed to refill and not to add chlorine so I stopped until now when I have time over the weekend for the drain. Was clear prior to stopping chlorine Tuesday.

For how long do I add the 5ppm (1 gal of 6%?) nightly?

Thanks again

 

[Donldson]

Welcome to TFP!

You only need to do that until your TF-100 arrives and you can post up some numbers for guidance. We don't want to steer you wrong so we can't give good directions until we know where you already are.

And that comment from the pool store about how adding chlorine will make the "demand" worse really shows the kind of people you are currently dealing with. That's just ludicrous, even more so than typical pool store advice. There might be a grain of truth to it, but it would require the employee to be making so many incorrect assumptions about the situation that it only makes the statement worse. At this point ignoring everything they have ever said is the best course of action.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Ok here are my levels (pool store test).
Fc .2 ppm
Tc .8ppm
Cya 60ppm
TC 128ppm
Ph 7.8ppm

Can I SLAM it as is or should I partial drain? Thanks for the help

 

[mknauss]

No need to drain anymore at this time. Get your test kit, run the tests, and post them here.

 

[mguzzy]

Tell about your pool? Above ground, in ground, plaster, fiberglass. What kind of equipment do you have? SWG, pumps etc. It gives an idea how to guide you since different pool types and equipment dictate the chemistry levels. You'll notice everyone puts that information in their signatures for easy reference.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Thanks for the tip mguzzy. Added below.

Not sure why it’s not displaying now in signature.

20,000gal vinyl liner in ground pool. Sand filter, no SWG.

 

[mknauss]

If you are on a phone, turn it sideways. You can see signatures that way.

Take a look at ours. A bit more detail is appreciated.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Got it. Updated below.

 

[RodRamos]

I am pretty new so all i can do is offer words of encouragement. I, much like you, came across this site with pool issues and didnt even know about the test kits. Waiting for the test kit was agonizing but I kept adding the 5ppm of FC worth of chlorine until it arrived. Once I had test numbers to post I was given steps on how to correct the water in my pool.
After that I read Pool School probably 5 or 6 times (I still read it on occasion) because it wasnt enough I was given the steps, I wanted to understand what I was doing.
Honestly I know it sounds like a sales pitch but my water has never looked and felt better.
Most of my issues I'm able to correct myself but if not, I know the experts here are able to help.
Hang in there.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Thanks frogabog. I’m excited to join the community and loose my reliance on pool store chemicals. I purchased the liquid chlorine and am adding tonight.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Ok I received my test kit today. Here are the results:
PH 7.8 (based on tests with old kit, this has been rising from 7.0 over several days).
TA 240 yikes
CYA 20 Still learning this test. I performed it at night in my kitchen with less than ideal lighting. Seems low.
FC - when I test with the K-1000 kit within my TF-100 it barely registers (guessing .5). When I use the powder it turns light pink and I can add 30 drops of the reagent without any impact to the color. Can my TA or something impact this?
CC - can’t test this without getting the FC test to work.

Please help.

Thanks

 

[mknauss]

You need to do the CYA test during the day, full sun, etc. See CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool

Your FC test. Follow FAS-DPD Chlorine Test - Trouble Free Pool
TA does not effect FC test.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Also of note: it has been very windy for several days and I am constantly clearing leaves from the skimmer. Also, I believe my well water has a TA of 200 and ph of 6.8 (again based on pre TF-100 tests. I’ll test again soon).

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

Thanks for the links. I’ll try again tomorrow when I get home. The powder was also one big hard clump that I had to break down. Instructions said that should be ok, but wanted to note.

Thanks again

 

[frogabog]

When you did the FC test, did you add 30 drops of R-0871 or 30 drops of R-0003?

Repeat the FC test following the directions as noted above. Something went wrong with that first test. Light pink usually indicates low FC which would match your OTO test results. Higher FC (even 3ppm as "higher") usually is brilliant pink in color as soon as the powder is added.

 

[Uncle Rico's Pool]

0871. I did the test twice. Once the powder is added it turns a very light pink/purple. Not dark at all, but I can’t get that light shade to go clear.