I took a quick look at PSW and yes that's the right kit. And it's the same container that I've had with my original and refill kits. When you said jar, I thought you meant a glass container. My powder is white and granules with no clumps. When it gets old or stored outside too long it gets clumps and sometimes turns dark and leaves a black stain on my cylinders but it still works fine. Can you please post a photo of the powder? Somehow it appears your powder is not working right. With your FC level it should turn clear with one or two drops. After 20-30 seconds it will turn pink again but your test ends as soon as it turns clear the first time.I bought it from pool supply world. It is a plastic container with screw on lid. What color should it be?
Your pH is very low. If it was me I'd raise it to at least 7. The pH calculations in Pool School are for narrow ranges so you should not try to change more than .4 units at a time. If this is what you did, your pool volume is off or you didn't have it properly entered into Pool Math. pH calculations are not perfect over wide range but aren't be off that much. Since you're still learning your pool I'd make pH changes at .2 until you get the hang of it. It won't take long. You'll need to resolve your FC test issue before you do anything more than Marty's previous recommendations. He's an expert at getting your pool from green to perfect, crystal-clear clean. Once you get FAS-DPD capability let him know and he'll have you in great shape in no time.I added muratic acid per pool math, waited 1/2 hr. Tested two spots and and now down to 6.8 (target was 7.2). Ok to proceed or do I need to bring up? I don’t want to yo-yo.
I am not planning to go higher while I am able to monitor it. Only while I am gone. I am worried the algae may consume more than I anticipate during the day (unknown at this point) and I would hate for it to dip below slam if I didn’t have my wife add enough.Maintain your FC at SLAM level based on CYA. No need to raise your FC above SLAM level.