Wait - you're not getting paid? Who is paying me?We're all volunteer here so it doesn't help us, per se. But keeping the lights on means none of us needs to find a new hobby. Imagine if my new hobby involved running???
Approaching 1.5 gallons by end of day today.Using PoolMath to estimate? 8.2 to 7.5 is 191oz of MA at 28000 gallons.
Stop the acid additions. Stop driving pH to 7.2. Reggie's advice was to do it once to help lower TA. Your TA is 60. If you keep lowering pH to 7.2, TA will decrease. If TA gets below 50, you can crash your pH.
Let pH rise to 7.8-8.0. pH should stabilize in that range with TA of 60. Don't force it lower. A pH of 7.8-8 is just fine.
That is the recommendation I'm making. With a TA of 60, your pH should be fairly stable in that range.Just curious, do you only add MA when over 8 and only to get it to 7.8-8? In general, how often do you find you're knocking down ph? Once a week or so? Just curious.
Why? Do you normally copy answers for a test off the dumbest kid in class?Had my water tested at the Pool Store, like I do anytime I'm buying MA
My perception is their CYA test is more accurate than my own TF-Pro kit and the chemicals to test CYA don't last too long so I have Pool Store do it when I'm thereWhy? Do you normally copy answers for a test off the dumbest kid in class?
Trust your own testing. Phosphates are not a concern, but are a great bogeyman to convince you to dump $$$ on magical pool potions the pool store is 100% in business to sell you.
Muriatic Acid is sold many places; it's a commodity, just find the best price.
We've seen them be particularly all over the map with CYA.My perception is their CYA test is more accurate than my own