I just reviewed the SLAM process and saw the CC needs to be .5 or lower. I haven't tested CC since the beginning of the SLAM. It was .5 Is that the result I was looking for or should I be testing that tonight OR before the sun comes up in the morning?
First Time Tester....CYA HIGH
- Thread starter thecardmaker
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
CC 0
overnight loss of 2.5 FC
went from 15.5 to 13
CYA 40
I'm losing steam on this SLAM process. It doesn't help to hear so many "the pool looks perfect" comments. I'm not letting anyone swim because I don't want to drag this process out. If the pool is open it means allowing young bladders into the pool.
overnight loss of 2.5 FC
went from 15.5 to 13
CYA 40
I'm losing steam on this SLAM process. It doesn't help to hear so many "the pool looks perfect" comments. I'm not letting anyone swim because I don't want to drag this process out. If the pool is open it means allowing young bladders into the pool.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I see a waterfall pump. Is that being run each day and the waterfall area has been looked at, scrubbed, etc?
You are closer than you think.
You are closer than you think.
I only turned the waterfall on for a short time during one day of the slam. I asked about it in this thread. Since there isn't anywhere for me to clean sitting water I didn't bother with it again. My waterfall is like a sheet of water that archs out and falls straight into the pool. Pic attached.
Attachments
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK == that is a sheer descent. So no places for the water to pool or anything. You can run it 15-30 minutes a day to change the water out in the pipes.
When I tested for FC at 6:30am this morning the sun was up but not directly on the pool.
FC 13 loss of 2.5
I just found out my daughter's test results (which were taken before sunrise but only 45 minutes before mine) before she went to work. She did it 3 times because she was concerned about getting accurate results for me. These were done outside by flashlight which was the same way I took the test at 10pm last night.
FC 14.5 CC 3 loss of 1
FC 15.5 CC 0 loss of 0
FC 16.5 CC 0 plus 1
I haven't run multiple tests like she did. Is it common to have this range of error? I would expect accurate results from her. Could the results change that much with a little sun in the 45 minutes between my tests and hers? I don't know what to think of this with these results. Do I continue to SLAM?
FC 13 loss of 2.5
I just found out my daughter's test results (which were taken before sunrise but only 45 minutes before mine) before she went to work. She did it 3 times because she was concerned about getting accurate results for me. These were done outside by flashlight which was the same way I took the test at 10pm last night.
FC 14.5 CC 3 loss of 1
FC 15.5 CC 0 loss of 0
FC 16.5 CC 0 plus 1
I haven't run multiple tests like she did. Is it common to have this range of error? I would expect accurate results from her. Could the results change that much with a little sun in the 45 minutes between my tests and hers? I don't know what to think of this with these results. Do I continue to SLAM?
The only test that is best done outside, with bright sunlight, is the CYA test. The other tests can be done inside (color change), at the table, sink or counter.
Do you guys have a SpeedStir? If not, that variance is definitely possible if hand-swirling the vial between drops.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The other major source of error is droplet size. The reagent should be held vertically, and the drops should naturally form and drop off the tip. Little to no pressure should be on the bottle. It should take 1 second or so per drop.
We don't have a speed stir and unfortunately the pool is not at our house. I don't want to bother the residents who go to bed early and are not up before the sun comes up so testing without sunlight means testing by flashlight.
The droplet size could be an issue. I read in the extended test instructions that when measuring high FC levels it was important to move quickly so I've been trying to do that. I squeeze the bottle very little but I do put a little pressure on it. Would you continue to SLAM at this point? Its just getter harder to keep up cause I'm dealing with an injury too.
The droplet size could be an issue. I read in the extended test instructions that when measuring high FC levels it was important to move quickly so I've been trying to do that. I squeeze the bottle very little but I do put a little pressure on it. Would you continue to SLAM at this point? Its just getter harder to keep up cause I'm dealing with an injury too.
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My pool has an auto fill feature. I just opened the cover where the floating bulb is and it’s definitely dirty water. I used a scrub brush to clean inside and all around and have scooped out water over and over again with a cup. It keeps diluting it as I do that. Should I put some chlorine in there?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sure -- though the pool water should be mixing with it. But will not hurt.
Just ordered a Speed Stir....anxious for all these "investments" to start paying off. Thanks for the suggestion.
The water in the auto fill tub was so dirty I doubt chlorinated water passes through it. But I know nothing about it other than I have a sparkling pool that can't pass OCLT and the auto fill tub had brown, nontransparent water with debris.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Does the auto fill work? Mine stays clean but there is 50-60 gallons a day going through it.
Yes, we never add water manually other than the water exchange and partial drain last weekend. When we refilled we left hoses filling the pool overnight and it overfilled. The pool is still a little high so the auto fill hasn't been needed for about a week.
Just came back from the pool and I would guess the auto fill is in use again. I noticed a small exit tube/opening about an inch above the water line in the auto fill tub. When we overfilled the pool after the drain maybe gunk from that line entered the over fill tub and then just sat there cooking for days until the water level came back down? If nothing else it probably sat stagnant for several days until the auto fill was needed again, which I suspect was today.
It passed the OCLT!! SLAM is complete. I feel like celebrating. 
Current results:
FC 11.5
CC 0.5
pH 8.0
TA 150
CH 200
CYA 40
Temp 89
A couple questions:
1) I added muriatic acid to bring the pH down to 7.2. This pool gets lots of little kids splashing around & waterfall so I'm thinking its better to keep it a little low since their splashing will increase the PH. Plus, my TA is high and it will help bring that down too. Is this all the right line of thinking?
2) I don't do anything to increase the TA, right?
3) Increase CH - Since I am not in a cold climate is the pool store my only option for the needed chemicals? What's the most economical route to go?
4) Is the pool currently safe to swim in? (once muriatic acid has mixed thoroughly)
Current results:
FC 11.5
CC 0.5
pH 8.0
TA 150
CH 200
CYA 40
Temp 89
A couple questions:
1) I added muriatic acid to bring the pH down to 7.2. This pool gets lots of little kids splashing around & waterfall so I'm thinking its better to keep it a little low since their splashing will increase the PH. Plus, my TA is high and it will help bring that down too. Is this all the right line of thinking?
2) I don't do anything to increase the TA, right?
3) Increase CH - Since I am not in a cold climate is the pool store my only option for the needed chemicals? What's the most economical route to go?
4) Is the pool currently safe to swim in? (once muriatic acid has mixed thoroughly)
Whoop! Alright, now just keep up with basic care and it's a breeze!!It passed the OCLT!! SLAM is complete. I feel like celebrating.
#1 Yes, #2 Usually not, unless it gets too low.
You can compare prices with pool store, hardware store and walmart for calcium hardness. Use Poolmath. It's usually good, to add in half doses, chemicals that need draining to lower.
Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
Always reference the FC/CYA Levels (a FC level ~ above minimum and below SLAM ~ for CYA level, is safe for swimming if you can see the bottom=safety)
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Great to hear.
Do not force the pH low. You will fight it constantly. Keep the pH in the upper 7's. When it hits 8, lower it to 7.6.
Do not force the pH low. You will fight it constantly. Keep the pH in the upper 7's. When it hits 8, lower it to 7.6.