First Time Tester....CYA HIGH

[thecardmaker]

Your CH is as high as you want to go.

Liquid chlorine all the way.

6/10/2020 - mid morning test
FC .5
CC .5
pH 7.4
TA 140
CH 420
CYA 120

Added 184 oz of 10% liquid chlorine in the evening

6/11/2020 -tested in evening immediately after young nieces/nephews swam
FC 1.0
CC .5
pH 7.6
TA 140
CH 420
CYA 160

CYA went up? Sheesh. I haven't removed the chlorine tablets from the system. But I should, right? Is that why the CYA increase? I didn't realize there would be swimmers today. Pool Math app is saying to add 256 ounces of 10% liquid chlorine. So I'll add that right away and read more about carrying out a no drain water exchange.....to take place FRiday/Saturday.

Any thoughts?

 

[mknauss]

Your CYA testing at that level has error in it. I assume you are doing the diluted test. Easily +/- 20 ppm error.

To be honest, just add 5-10 ppm FC in it each day until you can drain/refill. You most likely will need to follow the SLAM Process after you have done the drain.

 

[thecardmaker]

Your CYA testing at that level has error in it. I assume you are doing the diluted test. Easily +/- 20 ppm error.

To be honest, just add 5-10 ppm FC in it each day until you can drain/refill. You most likely will need to follow the SLAM Process after you have done the drain.

Yes, diluted test for CYA. My son as been testing with me the two previous days. Today I had him do it. We'll run back over together and see what we get.

 

[BadDogPSD]

This chart helps explain the relationship between high CYA and the need to have higher Free Chlorine levels.
** deleted incorrect information **
We are adding 9-10 gallons of liquid chlorine each week to keep the levels up around 10ppm. I don't want to do this long term as liquid chlorine isn't cheap in our area and can be hard to find sometimes.
We are also currently researching and learning about adding a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWG or SWCG) and converting the pool to salt water.

Keep asking questions, this a great site with lots of knowledgable, helpful, and friendly members!
I've learned so much in the few weeks I've been here.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mknauss]

We've been slowly lowering our CYA with replacement water as pool water evaporates.

That does not remove CYA. CYA stays in the water (just like salt and calcium) when the water evaporates.

 

[BadDogPSD]

That does not remove CYA. CYA stays in the water (just like salt and calcium) when the water evaporates.

Interesting. I wonder why the CYA has gone from 140 to 90?

 

[mknauss]

CYA will degrade in higher water temperatures. Testing error comes into play, especially with the diluted test.

 

[thecardmaker]

CYA will degrade in higher water temperatures. Testing error comes into play, especially with the diluted test.

I've tried to find info on how to determine how much water needs to be replaced this weekend. Do you have a link you could share with me?

6/10/2020 - mid morning test
FC .5
CC .5
pH 7.4
TA 140
CH 420
CYA 120

Added 184 oz of 10% liquid chlorine in the evening

6/11/2020 -tested in evening immediately after young nieces/nephews swam
FC 1.0
CC .5
pH 7.6
TA 140
CH 420
CYA 160 (tested it twice - dilluted)

 

[mknauss]

Based on the 120 CYA, 2/3 rds. or about 8000 gallons. If doing the water exchange method, do 10000 gallons and see what you get.

 

[thecardmaker]

Based on the 120 CYA, 2/3 rds. or about 8000 gallons. If doing the water exchange method, do 10000 gallons and see what you get.

Your CYA testing at that level has error in it. I assume you are doing the diluted test. Easily +/- 20 ppm error.

To be honest, just add 5-10 ppm FC in it each day until you can drain/refill. You most likely will need to follow the SLAM Process after you have done the drain.

Ok, honestly I don't know how to figure out how much 5-10 ppm FC is....but I have the Pool Math app and I'm following the quantity of liquid chlorine it recommends to add after a daily test.

I'd like to have the needed supplies on hand before I start the water exchange process. Do I need anything besides:
1) Lots of liquid chlorine for SLAM
2) Borax & Dry Acid to raise/lower pH (I read that I should adjust pH before slamming), do you have any suggestion on the quantity (for example it helps to know we're talking gallons for the chlorine) or is it silly to buy both ahead of time instead of waiting? The no drain water exchange (10,000 gallons per your suggestion) will start Friday after business hours. I don't shop on Sundays so I'd like to have the needed supplies rather than wait til Monday.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help.

 

[mknauss]

Get a gallon of muriatic acid. Sometimes comes in boxes of 2 gallons. That is OK too. It does not go bad. Store it away from metals and chlorine. I use a 20 gallon plastic trash can with lid to store the bottles in. Outside.

Start with at least 10 gallons of liquid chlorine.

1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine in your pool is about 8 ppm FC.

 

[thecardmaker]

Get a gallon of muriatic acid. Sometimes comes in boxes of 2 gallons. That is OK too. It does not go bad. Store it away from metals and chlorine. I use a 20 gallon plastic trash can with lid to store the bottles in. Outside.

Start with at least 10 gallons of liquid chlorine.

1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine in your pool is about 8 ppm FC.

Ok, we're going to start the no drain water exchange this evening. I've been reading a similar thread that you helped with as well as other TFP content. Does this plan sound right for the no drain water exchange?

1) Make sure pool pump and automatic filler are turned off for duration. Turning off at breaker is recommended.
2) Use single hose to siphon water from top step, water temp is 89
3) Use single hose to add water in deep end (water is cooler than pool). I assume I need to anchor the hose in place in deep end.
4) Siphon water to street/storm drain (legal as long as total chlorine is less than or equal to 5.0mg/liter, which I believe is equal to 5 ppm)
5) Test released water in 5 gallon bucket for 1 minute to determine flow rate & length of time needed for exchange
6) Due to CYA of 120 and 12,200 gallon pool, plan to exchange 10,000 gallons.
7) Keep water level the same during the exchange
8) Don't brush or mix water during exchange
9) Upon completion of exchange run full range of tests. SLAM will likely be necessary.
10) Be prepared with 10+ gallons of 10% liquid chlorine and 1 pound muriatic acid at end of exchange. I will also purchase 20 gallon trash with snap on lid to store muriatic acid in shaded area outside. How far do I need to keep it from mechanical pool equipment? Can I keep the liquid chlorine in the garage?
11) Should I post test results before adding chemicals or go ahead with Pool Math App recommendations at that time?
12) After adding chemicals run the pump 24/7.

Thank you!

 

[splashpad]

10) Be prepared with 10+ gallons of 10% liquid chlorine and 1 pound muriatic acid at end of exchange. I will also purchase 20 gallon trash with snap on lid to store muriatic acid in shaded area outside. How far do I need to keep it from mechanical pool equipment? Can I keep the liquid chlorine in the garage?
11) Should I post test results before adding chemicals or go ahead with Pool Math App recommendations at that time?

#10 - Chlorine does NOT tolerate heat/light, so it needs to be in the coolest place you can store it.

#11 - You can do both, everyone here will give you the same recommendations that PoolMath says

 

[mknauss]

I doubt you will be able to siphon at a reasonable rate. You can try. If that does not work, then a 1/2 hp sump pump would be good to have. It works when you need to drain some water off your pool due to Houston rains too.

 

[thecardmaker]

I doubt you will be able to siphon at a reasonable rate. You can try. If that does not work, then a 1/2 hp sump pump would be good to have. It works when you need to drain some water off your pool due to Houston rains too.

OK. I’ll check out the price on a half HP sump pump. I’m at Lowe’s now. The 20 gallon trash seems rather big for the Muriatic acid. Do you store other stuff in it as well?

 

[splashpad]

OK. I’ll check out the price on a half HP sump pump. I’m at Lowe’s now. The 20 gallon trash seems rather big for the Muriatic acid. Do you store other stuff in it as well?

I use an old kitty litter tote. The important thing for the storage container, is that it is stable, strong and plastic! You want a little bit of room, but no, nothing else should be stored with MA.

 

[mknauss]

No, nothing else. You could use a 5 gallon bucket if you want for a one gallon jug. I get two gallons at a time.

 

[thecardmaker]

Working on the exchange. With three siphon hoseS is we’re at a gallon a minute. At Lowe’s at the moment looking at pumps. Concerned that the half horsepower pump that will do 55 gallons per minute has a 1.5 inch pipe that we will have to connect down to a garden hose. Will that burn the motor out?

Another option is a 1/3 hp pump which is designed to go right to a garden hose. Picture of both provided.

 

[splashpad]

Working on the exchange. With three siphon hoseS is we’re at a gallon a minute. At Lowe’s at the moment looking at pumps. Concerned that the half horsepower pump that will do 55 gallons per minute has a 1.5 inch pipe that we will have to connect down to a garden hose. Will that burn the motor out?

Another option is a 1/3 hp pump which is designed to go right to a garden hose. Picture of both provided.

I would prob go with the smaller one just so you don't have to buy a reducer. But it's really personal choice

 

[thecardmaker]

No, nothing else. You could use a 5 gallon bucket if you want for a one gallon jug. I get two gallons at a time.

We bought a pump
Once we’re done and the filter is running again will it take care of the metal and whatever else is in the water?