First Time Pool Owner

[needsajet]

Here's your results, in TFP's preferred format. I'll explain a bit more below.

TC 5
pH 7.6
TA 80
CH 400
CYA 80
Temp 58

TC stands for total chlorine which is the sum of free chlorine (FC) and combined chlorine (CC). You can ignore and not report BR (bromine) because you haven't used bromine in the pool (the test just happens to work for bromine as well as chlorine).

The kits recommended for TFPC are preferred because we prefer knowing both FC and CC. This is helpful for cleanups and for a heads-up when something is going sideways. You can also use less chemicals (saving money) by knowing he correct numbers. Eventually you'll buy a TF-100 test kit, we'll then know both numbers, and you'll save money.

pH - 7.65 suggests a different type of testing; 7.6 or 7.7 (based on your judgement) will work fine for knowing your water chemistry.

TA stands for total alkalinity

CH stands for calcium hardness

I haven't been able to verify if the HTH kit measures CH or total hardness. There's experienced comments here at TFP that suggest both. If it's total hardness, then magnesium hardness would be included rather than removed as it is with better test kits. But your numbers look OK anywhere from 300 to 400, so I think that's adequate information for now.

In the meantime, your water is reasonably well balanced. My suggestion is to use muriatic acid to keep the pH close to 7.6/7.7 (just where it is ) and also suggest adding some chlorine to keep your TC up to 10+ ppm TC. (very dark yellow bordering on orange). Plan for a test kit purchase before swimming season, and your FC can be fine-tuned a bit lower.

Any progress on the filter, high pressure and low flow rate?

 

[espinola17]

Here's your results, in TFP's preferred format. I'll explain a bit more below.

TC 5
pH 7.6
TA 80
CH 400
CYA 80
Temp 58

TC stands for total chlorine which is the sum of free chlorine (FC) and combined chlorine (CC). You can ignore and not report BR (bromine) because you haven't used bromine in the pool (the test just happens to work for bromine as well as chlorine).

The kits recommended for TFPC are preferred because we prefer knowing both FC and CC. This is helpful for cleanups and for a heads-up when something is going sideways. You can also use less chemicals (saving money) by knowing he correct numbers. Eventually you'll buy a TF-100 test kit, we'll then know both numbers, and you'll save money.

pH - 7.65 suggests a different type of testing; 7.6 or 7.7 (based on your judgement) will work fine for knowing your water chemistry.

TA stands for total alkalinity

CH stands for calcium hardness

I haven't been able to verify if the HTH kit measures CH or total hardness. There's experienced comments here at TFP that suggest both. If it's total hardness, then magnesium hardness would be included rather than removed as it is with better test kits. But your numbers look OK anywhere from 300 to 400, so I think that's adequate information for now.

In the meantime, your water is reasonably well balanced. My suggestion is to use muriatic acid to keep the pH close to 7.6/7.7 (just where it is ) and also suggest adding some chlorine to keep your TC up to 10+ ppm TC. (very dark yellow bordering on orange). Plan for a test kit purchase before swimming season, and your FC can be fine-tuned a bit lower.

Any progress on the filter, high pressure and low flow rate?

Any specific reason I should up my chlorine? Is that because my CYA

Did not open up the filter had some unexpected visitors. Pressure has remained around 32 psi. The whole "newer" piping seems to be the issue after more inspecting, every elbow or connector has drops of water coming from it. Flow rate looked fine all day and had pressure out of all return jets today.


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[kimkats]

Yes the higher FC is due to the high CYA. Here is the chart:

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

As you can see the higher your CYA the higher your FC needs to be.

Needs has you well covered on what you need to do for now. I am glad you have that "baby test kit". I can't wait until you are able to get the "grown up kit" so we can really get to work on your water and get is balanced so it is really Trouble Free for you! It will look like a jewel when we are through with it.

Kim

 

[needsajet]

Thanks, Kim. Keep an eye on us, and share your expertise for sure

espinola, my thinking is that you're now at the absolute bare minimum FC for your CYA. Cold water helps suppress algae risk immensely, so there's no great concern while you get your head around TFPC. But given that the testing is approximate, it's a pretty good idea to err on the side of zero algae by keeping your FC a bit above target, while you're busy elsewhere working on increasing your flow and circulation.

You mentioned earlier on that flow from the returns is weaker than it used to be. That's an important observation and well worth correcting. Good flow allows the FC to do it's work on algae cells that are floating around in areas of poor circulation. You're doing a great job of figuring it all out and asking the right questions. Keep on going

 

[espinola17]

Thanks, Kim. Keep an eye on us, and share your expertise for sure

espinola, my thinking is that you're now at the absolute bare minimum FC for your CYA. Cold water helps suppress algae risk immensely, so there's no great concern while you get your head around TFPC. But given that the testing is approximate, it's a pretty good idea to err on the side of zero algae by keeping your FC a bit above target, while you're busy elsewhere working on increasing your flow and circulation.

You mentioned earlier on that flow from the returns is weaker than it used to be. That's an important observation and well worth correcting. Good flow allows the FC to do it's work on algae cells that are floating around in areas of poor circulation. You're doing a great job of figuring it all out and asking the right questions. Keep on going

Thank you guys. I'm definitely trying. Pool looks amazing. Can't wait till you guys get done with it and my equipment is working a bit smoother until it all gets replaced or at least most of it. The flow is doing well from all return jets as we spoke. And my pool temp keeps climbing. How much bleach are we thinking I should add and how long should it circulate before swimming... not that I'm swimming anytime soon until the water temp gets up a bit more.

There was visible algae even in the cold temps when I took ownership of this baby but it seems to have been gone as during vacuuming and brushing I no longer see it when doing so.




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[triptyx]

You can swim at anything less than SLAM level for your CYA (Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart). Try to keep your pool a bit above target, and never go below minimum.

If you had visible algae, you definitely need to perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)) to make sure you got it all (sorry if you did this on a prior page and I missed it!).

With the filter running, pouring the bleach in front of a return, and pouring only enough to get you to the high end of your target level, you should be pretty safe to swim nearly immediately. Just to be sure, I usually let about 15-20 minutes go by. If I want to really make sure, I'll brush around where I poured the bleach for a minute or three.

 

[espinola17]

You can swim at anything less than SLAM level for your CYA (Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart). Try to keep your pool a bit above target, and never go below minimum.

If you had visible algae, you definitely need to perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)) to make sure you got it all (sorry if you did this on a prior page and I missed it!).

With the filter running, pouring the bleach in front of a return, and pouring only enough to get you to the high end of your target level, you should be pretty safe to swim nearly immediately. Just to be sure, I usually let about 15-20 minutes go by. If I want to really make sure, I'll brush around where I poured the bleach for a minute or three.

Did not preform the overnight Fc loss test. It's a hefty thread that keeps going so no worries. But the visible algae was over a month ago at this point and tackled that in the beginning. It hasn't been visible since.

Does anyone prefer a certain bleach over another.


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[espinola17]

Since my test kit is total chlorine until I get my Taylor test kit, pool math calculator doesn't account for that. So I'm not sure how much bleach I should add. What is everyone's thoughts on how much to add to being my total chlorine elevens up ?


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[needsajet]

For now, continue working it out with PoolMath and enter your TC number in the FC box. It will be close enough.

 

[needsajet]

For swim time after chem addition, 30 minutes is a good rule of thumb provided it's been poured slowly in front of a return.

To be honest, if I have to push it, I make them stay out for five minutes, and brush near where I poured it in, or jump in myself and swim around to mix it up, with eyes open. They sit with cute little frowns and count from zero to 300 a bit on the fast side

 

[triptyx]

Does anyone prefer a certain bleach over another.

The cheapest I can find that is 8.25% and is "Fresh" - look for the Julian date - it should look something like 17010 - where 17 is 2017 and 10 is the 10th date of the year. You want bleach that's pretty fresh as it turns into water over time. Additionally, the store should be storing it in a cool, dry place. If the pallet of bleach is outside in the garden section in the heat, walk on by.

Check your local Home Depot or Lowes too. They sell liquid chlorinate which is 10%. If it's fresh and inside, I've found that to be a better deal that the "regular" bleach at the stores. They usually have it for about $6.86 for two gallons.

 

[Analogbytes]

Does anyone prefer a certain bleach over another.

Also, only use regular unscented/original bleach. Not splashless

 

[espinola17]

Also, only use regular unscented/original bleach. Not splashless

That I did know. I've seen around on TFP those recommendations just always have seen a lot of controversy on what to use and the percentages


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[Analogbytes]

You are basically just looking for the best value between price/quantity/%bleach that is fresh. I haven't ventured past the cheap 8.25% stuff at Walmart yet. But I keep looking

 

[triptyx]

Thanks Analog - I always mention no splashless and no scents but forgot this morning.

 

[espinola17]

Real quick, I didnt think to check what this was in the beginning. But I believe my pool is equipped with auto fill. See pic.

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[espinola17]

Also on the topic of my equipment / leaky plumbing issues, I was wondering what cartridge filter everyone would recommend. I want to replace and of course the pipes all at the same time. I know nothing about my current filter other then that it's Hayward and has too many leaking issues. My pump is operating so would like to leave that alone for now (see model in signature). What are your thoughts on : Hayward C12002 Star Clear Cartridge Filter (120 SqFt)

Pool is approx 10-11k gallons.


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[triptyx]

That is indeed an autofill.

I'm not qualified to offer an opinion on the filter, but I'll bet you get an answer soon.

 

[espinola17]

Awesome thank you, and I hope so, would like to get it done within the next few months, don't even think its worth my time at this point to deal with my current filter

 

[espinola17]

Just wanted to give you all an update. I seem to have a good grasp on things. Here's a pic from today [emoji847]

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