First test

[Teris]

Hi all.

I ran my first test. I have been putting 10 oz of liquid chlorine in per day over the last few days while waiting for my kit to arrive. Here are the test results:

FC was 27.5
CC was 1
TC is 28.5

I can only assume this means my pool is about to explode. Correct?

 

[Texas Splash]

Let's be sure of a few things first:
- What test kit are you using?
- What testing sample size and math did you use to calculate the FC?
- What is your CYA and other levels?
- What is the water temp?
- Tell us about your pool and equipment by updating your signature. That will also drive the answers you receive.

 

[Teris]

I'm using the TF-100 kit.

FC was 55 R-0871 drops before the solution went clear. Divided by 2 = 27.5.

I added 5 drops of R-0003. The solution turned slightly pink, so added 2 drops of R-0871 and divide by 2 for CCs.

I just did a CYA test and that was not even 100. I'm guessing it's 120.

Water temp is approximately 70 degrees.

I keep trying to update my signature, but it doesn't appear to be showing up. I have a Pentair Intelliflo pump, Pentair FNS filter. I've been using liquid chlorine recently because I just fired my pool guy. I think it's a plaster pool, about 15k gallons.

Thanks for the help, everyone!

 

[Newdude]

just did a CYA test and that was not even 100. I'm guessing it's 120

CYA of 100 and above fool the eyes and it isn't like it appears to be as the scale is logrythmic and not linear. So, do a dillution test and double the result. Keep diluting until it reads under 100. I lifted this from pool school:

CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:[5]

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

 

[Teris]

CYA of 100 and above fool the eyes and it isn't like it appears to be as the scale is logrythmic and not linear. So, do a dillution test and double the result. Keep diluting until it reads under 100. I lifted this from pool school:

CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:[5]

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

Okay, thanks. It's late now, so I'll do it tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Newdude]

I keep trying to update my signature, but it doesn't appear to be showing up

Hamburger menu in the upper left
Click the bald dude
Click signature. (This is the under post one)
Go absolutely buck wild with pool details and model #'s

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

FC was 55 R-0871 drops before the solution went clear. Divided by 2 = 27.5.

Confirm you're using a 10mL pool water sample. Your FC number is real high. Unless you've added gallons and gallons of chlorine, it seems off based on your 10 oz per/day doses.

 

[Teris]

I just retested to confirm results.

FC is 29 (58 drops to clear solution)
CC 0 (solution stayed clear)
CYA was about 100, so I did the CYA Dilution Test recommended by Newdude and got about 70.

Water temp is 64 degrees.

Not sure what to do next, but I know the chemistry is way off. In terms of the chlorine, a couple of weeks ago, my then-pool guy check led the chemistry (because I asked him to based on algae I saw) and he said "wow, you have no chlorine in the pool." He addednchlorine liquid chlorine, but I have no idea how much (sorry to much!).

After I ordered the test kit, I bought liquid chlorine (which took a few days to arrive) and added 10 oz per day for 2 days.

Thanks again, everyone!

 

[Newdude]

CYA was about 100, so I did the CYA Dilution Test recommended by Newdude and got about 70.

So double the 70 and the CYA is 140. Too high to maintain a safe FC. You will need to drain or water exchange about 75% to get a manageable CYA of 40. See Draining and let us know which way works best for you.

With a large drain on the horizon, the only thing that matters is FC. Once it falls, keep it around 12, daily, until you drain.

 

[Teris]

So double the 70 and the CYA is 140. Too high to maintain a safe FC. You will need to drain or water exchange about 75% to get a manageable CYA of 40. See Draining and let us know which way works best for you.

With a large drain on the horizon, the only thing that matters is FC. Once it falls, keep it around 12, daily, until you drain.

I'm not sure I'm following. Are you saying I need to drain 75% of the water in my pool? If it matters, no one will be in the pool for at least another month. Water costs a fortune here, so if there's an option to draining, I'd take it.

Also, if the pool is THAT BAD, I'm contacting the company that's been managing it up until a week ago.

 

[Newdude]

Are you saying I need to drain 75% of the water in my pool?

Correct. Still no explosions, no worries there, but maintaining a FC through the roof will be both expensive and difficult.

If it matters, no one will be in the pool for at least another month.

It would take a year or more.

Also, if the pool is THAT BAD, I'm contacting the company that's been managing it up until a week ago

It's not bad, per se. It's just going to require alot more chlorine to sanitize. Every level of this chart is an equal amount of sanitizing. Guesstimate upwards for your 140 as the chart stops at 100. FC/CYA Levels. If you can push the costs of draining onto the previous company, then that's awsome.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Teris]

Thank you for the info. Obviously my pool company was not doing the job well (or maybe even at all). Sounds like this is going to cost me quite a bit to get fixed.

 

[Newdude]

Obviously my pool company was not doing the job well (or maybe even at all).

They were doing it to industry standards thay haven't been updated since the 80s. And why would they? They shrug, make you drain every 2 years and start the roller coaster all over.

I hope you can make then cover it, but they probably won't care, or even think anything is wrong. When the pool goes green soon, they get to charge you an arm an a leg to fix it with more band aids. Why would they want to address the root of the problem?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Water costs a fortune here, so if there's an option to draining, I'd take it

The option to a water exchange is reverse osmosis. Companies in the area charge approximately $700 for the service. They bring in a self-contained trailer that pumps water through filters, removing CYA and calcium.

Unless you're in an area that penalizes for excessive water use, the cost of exchanging water might not be as bad as you think. Generally, water is billed by per Unit, which is 748 gallons. In my area, I could do a 75% water exchange for less than $40.

 

[Newdude]

Meet our friend @kul. She just had it done.

 

[kul]

Yup. I did RO. It was $700. Though most charge $800. It is cheaper to drain and fill but I was adamant about not doing that to conserve water due to our usual droughts here. Additionally I was nervous about the possibility of the pool popping out or plaster damage due to it being dry for a while- though I was told that the risk was minimal. I was happy with my choice and my pool got the make over it needed.

 

[Teris]

The option to a water exchange is reverse osmosis. Companies in the area charge approximately $700 for the service. They bring in a self-contained trailer that pumps water through filters, removing CYA and calcium.

Unless you're in an area that penalizes for excessive water use, the cost of exchanging water might not be as bad as you think. Generally, water is billed by per Unit, which is 748 gallons. In my area, I could do a 75% water exchange for less than $40.

Thanks for the local info. We're billed by unit here, too. 14 units at 2.93 per unit, then 4.60 over that amount. I have to figure out how much that works out to be, but I assumed it would be a huge multiple of $40!

 

[Newdude]

Do you usually go over the 14k gallons ? If you didn't and you timed it right, you could get the bulk of the pool in the cheaper rates spread over the last day of one cycle and the first day of the next.

If you already go over, then it doesn't matter and you are paying the premium charge.