First plan, really need advice before proceeding:(

[cbaird99]

Good morning from very hot Texas! A bit about my pool situation, I have put details in signature, please let me know if I need to add more info. I "inherited" pool care 9 years ago when my husband passed away. Since then I feel I have done a pretty good job, but I hate relying and spending money at Leslie's and now I have a black algea problem that after a few years is pretty established. I gave in about a month ago and went thru the first cycle of their copper based algea killer but I cannot tell it did much and I think that is a dead end. So, I saved up and this week bought the Taylor K2006 at your recommendation. I just did my first tests, the three most impt. I think, they are:

FC 1
CC .2
Ph between 7.8-8
CYA 80
Water looks clear

Other facts, last summer my CYA got quite high, I drained much of pool. It is creeping up again, at this point I keep 1-2 3"tabs in floater and use 1 bag of Power Powder Plus per week to shock. This is not enough with 100 degree days. It has been several days since I shocked, I waited to do this test. I can go to store today and start buy liquid bleach/chlorine (Groc store? H Depot?) and I have muriatic acid altho that stuff scares me and maybe I need to get the dry kind when this is gone.

I will add I am fit but 62 and work full time, and I just do not have the strength to brush this algae any harder than I already am without budging it. So...I am guessing I need to get my PH lower and then SLAM but...with this algae, what to do different, and if I cannot physically remove it am I really accomplishing anything? Help??

 

[YippeeSkippy]

CBaird, welcome to TFP We're happy to try to help you!

Do you know how much copper containing products you've put in the pool?

Good job getting the test kit. Did you perform the Calcium Hardness (CH) and Total Alkalinity (TA) tests too? Since your pool is plaster those results are important to know for the health of your plaster. Long lasting plaster has a LOT to do with taking care of the chemistry of the water.

Have you been brushing with a steel brush?

STOP using anything with copper, all algaecides, no FLOC or clarifiers. The only thing your pool needs is chlorine- and that's straight up chlorine. NO pucks, no granular products as they contain unwanted side ingredients (either calcium or CYA) which you probably dont need more of. Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool

Liquid chlorine can be found in the pool section of Walmart (10%) and Home Depot (?%) or just plain old Bravo bleach from H.E.B. What you don't want are scents, thickeners, polymers, etc. Plain 6% Bravo or other markets bleach is just as good.

Use the PoolMath web version (found at bottom of page) or get the App and let it guide you on quantities of chemicals to add. PoolMath

Read the SLAM process thru and ask questions... its a process, NOT a "one time" or "once a week" treatement. You need to be able to test and dose the pool *at least* 2-3 times a day. Its like treating strep throat, you take the pills for 10 days cause the first days dose just starts to stun the cooties, and you'll feel better in a few days yet aren't still done yet... SLAM Process

Ask questions!-

Maddie

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome! Yes, the TX heat is bearing down on us. Along with Maddie's notes, I would add a couple things. On your profile, please tell us where in the great state of TX you are. Huge different from El Paso to Tyler, or DFW to Corpus. Definitely no more pucks. If you have an HEB near you, their Bravo was lowered to 6% but they kept the same price, so I now go to HD. It's 10% strength and just under $10 for a case of 3 gallons. You can also get muriatic acid there as well. Yes, MA is strong and demands respect, but with careful pouring it's really the best. But do what feels right for you. Once you post all of your other test results, folks here will be happy to help you. Hat's-off to you for taking charge of your water.

 

[cbaird99]

Ok, thanks for replies, more info:

CH is 380, I know that's a bit high but with this heat I am adding water to pool a couple times a week, it is in full sun, so not gonna worry about that now.
TA is 90.

I have logged all this in the app.

I used 15 oz of the copper black algea killer about a month ago.

I am brushing with a steel brush. Pump is running 8 hrs a day on timer, over night when I add shock. I am gonna take the puck floater out now. I cannot start the slam thing till next weekend, so I'd like to spend this week getting PH in line and upping chlorine, is that a plan? Will it be swimmable doing this for dogs and people? This gives me time to read thru the slAm process and be sure I understand it.

 

[frogabog]

You can swim up to SLAM level for your CYA See FC/CYA Levels.

 

[Texas Splash]

With a CYA of 80, you have plenty of room to increase the FC safely. Please see the FC/CYA Levels. Using the PoolMath tool, I would increase and maintain the FC to about the 8-10 range and never let it drop below 7 while your CYA is that high. Now once you are able to do another water exchange to lower the CYA, go back to the FC/CYA Levels and adjust your FC accordingly. Good luck!

 

[cbaird99]

Since my project this weekend is free chlorine and PH, which do I add first and how long in between please?

 

[frogabog]

Chlorine

hands down

Chlorine

 

[cbaird99]

Thanks for all the help! Just bought 4 cases of 10% at H Depot and added recommended dose. Will get that right then do PH. I am thinking I will not have enough of that powdered chlorine test reagent to go thru a slam tho, do you all buy extra via amazon to be sure?

 

[mknauss]

Get test kit refills from TFTestkits.net

 

[kimkats]

You can start it and do it over the week. Try to test and adjust the FC 4 times a day:
-After morning coffee (make sure to NOT wear "good" clothes)
-when you get home for the day
-right after dinner
-right before bed

Keep the pump running 24/7 and brush the pool at least once a day.

You got this and your pool will look better than it ever has before once things get balanced and set up using TFP levels.

Kim

 

[ajw22]

Since my project this weekend is free chlorine and PH, which do I add first and how long in between please?

Chlorine and pH for the SLAM Process or regular water balance?

For the SLAM Process lower your pH to 7.2-7.4 BEFORE you raise your FC to SLAM Levels. Once your FC is above 10 pH testing is unreliable so just test pH and CC.

For regular water balance pH of 7.8 is fine. Just get your FC up following the FC/CYA Levels