Finally Plumbed my AGP with PVC

[MikeInTN]

Re: Unionization

Just a couple tips about unions ---Lowes sells ball valves with a union built right into the valve. That saves you fromneeding a separate union, and makes it easy to clean or replace a valve if needed . Look for the ones with the white handles. They come in 1 1/2" and 2", in single union (union on one side of the valve) or double union (both sides unionized) They are only about $7-8, cheaper than the regular ones with the red or black handles and I think they turn more easily. Mine have held up for years without a problem in spite of the fact that I use them in partially open positions. I just wish they made them in 3-way, which they don't. Home Depot doesn't have them

Also, If your pump inlet/outlet ports have both 1 1/2 female threads, AND larger male threads on the outside, there is probably a "union kit" available for it. This is a set of two one sided union fittings with collars which attach to the port, which makes up the other side of the union. My kit was only $14 (Hayward). Again, no need for a separate union and makes for easy removal of the pump.

I wish we had your Lowe's here. The one I frequent didn't have anything like you're describing. Pretty slick!

 

[harbrown]

Have you a parts list?

Here's a quick parts list for my setup, but it may or may not match up to your pump/filter configuration.

For my setup (everything is 1 1/2" sch40 pvc):

4 - slip/slip threaded unions
3 - slip ball valves*
4 - male threaded/slip connectors
8 - slip 90 bend connectors
1 - slip tee connector
2 - 10' sections pipe

* - I actually used two slip ball valves, and one that was threaded, because I installed the ball valves for the returns back when i was still using flex pipe, and all Lowe's had at the time was one threaded, and one slip. So, I used a threaded/slip connectors to make everything work with the hose barbs I was using at the time. I didn't want to buy new valves for the returns, so I made it work with what I already had. If I was doing it from scratch, I would use two slip ball valves for the returns, and wrote up the parts list as if I was starting from scratch.

I also have an Intex SWCG plumbed in after the filter, and used a slip/slip threaded union between the filter and SWCG as well. I didn't include this union in the parts list above.

What part did you use to replace the Intex fitting that attaches to the SWG? Everything i see out there isnt the same fit. I need to hard plumbing mine into my 1 1/2" sch40 but the threads dont match on that special fitting.

 

[*chris*]

Looks good, next time go one bin over at Lowes and buy the sweep elbows, they have less restriction and look nicer!

 

[Verdog]

Looks good, next time go one bin over at Lowes and buy the sweep elbows, they have less restriction and look nicer!

Careful! That looks like a DWV(Drain-Waste-Vent) fitting and is not Schedule 40 rated. You can usually tell by the shorter slip fitting. I used 2 45's glued together for an "easy" 90.

 

[Onslow]

Mike,

Did you use "special" pool ball valves or ones from the hardware store?

 

[Jimh64]

I used the Valves from Lowe's and they worked great!

 

[MikeInTN]

Mike,

Did you use "special" pool ball valves or ones from the hardware store?

Sorry it's taken so long to answer this, Onslow. Like Jimh64 said, I just used the ball valves from the hardware store. I didn't know they even made "special" pool ball valves.

 

[fitdocsr]

Here's my plumbing. I'm going to move the cell bc the 15' cord won't reach where I want the control panel to be. I'll post up new pics after but it may wait until after summer. Any reason I can't move the T-cell as long as I keep it vertical?

 

[Bama Rambler]

The only reason I see is that, that's the RJ model which doesn't have the flow switch. The reason for the flow switch is to prevent the cell from continuing to operate and build up hydrogen gas in cases of no flow. With the Rj it can't build up gas because the gas will escape out the return. You can add the flow switch if you need to move it.

 

[fitdocsr]

If I add the flow switch I can mount the cell horizontally then correct? The reason for the vertical mount is to allow the gasses to escape out the return jet?

 

[Bama Rambler]

That is correct. With the flow switch you can install it horizontally.

You can move it without the flow switch as long as you make sure that all the piping leaving the cell is sloping upward toward the return fitting and there are no pockets

 

[fitdocsr]

Perfect! Thanks!

 

[thepiratemorgan]

Now I see that you simply use threaded slip unions!

Now don't mean to sound dumb, but is a "slip union" just that ... a union that is not permanently attached to the 1 1/2" pipe or ball valve???
Was wondering because next spring I am going to go hard plumbed. Blew a return flex hose this year, during vacation ... of course!!! Would it happen any other time??? Luckily father-in-law stopped by to check on pool and add bleach just after it had happen.
Another question for original poster ... So are you going to leave those return ball valves in place of winter?? Or are ya still gonna plug them? or both? It looks like they are permanently bonded to skimmer and return outlets.
Thanks for the pics, and thanks for any help with clarification.

 

[timdog]

MikeInTN- Nice job Mike, but why'd you need a grounding rod? I hope your pump is grounded to the panel.

The reason I ask is because I ended up doing the electrical for the pool I was having put in because when queried, 2 electricians gave me different answers on requirements. I ended up researching the right way and did in accordance with. What I am hoping is that the electrician in your case misunderstood the geopotential bonding and drove a ground rod and not leaving out the ground to the panel.

Tim

 

[thepiratemorgan]

Re: Unionization

Also, If your pump inlet/outlet ports have both 1 1/2 female threads, AND larger male threads on the outside, there is probably a "union kit" available for it. This is a set of two one sided union fittings with collars which attach to the port, which makes up the other side of the union. My kit was only $14 (Hayward). Again, no need for a separate union and makes for easy removal of the pump.

Do you happen to have a part number for this miranda??? Thanks ...
I found it for my Power Flo Matrix - it's SP1500UNPAK2
Now if I could just learn how to "unionize" my skimmer and return without ruining them. I posted my own thread to see if someone could help me with all these unfamiliar terms. Not a dummy, just not a plumber ... :lol:

 

[swanny297]

Another newbie question - are the unions used for the purpose of removing the pipe in sections?

 

[thepiratemorgan]

Another newbie question - are the unions used for the purpose of removing the pipe in sections?

Yep !!

 

[MikeInTN]

Now I see that you simply use threaded slip unions!

Now don't mean to sound dumb, but is a "slip union" just that ... a union that is not permanently attached to the 1 1/2" pipe or ball valve???
Was wondering because next spring I am going to go hard plumbed. Blew a return flex hose this year, during vacation ... of course!!! Would it happen any other time??? Luckily father-in-law stopped by to check on pool and add bleach just after it had happen.
Another question for original poster ... So are you going to leave those return ball valves in place of winter?? Or are ya still gonna plug them? or both? It looks like they are permanently bonded to skimmer and return outlets.
Thanks for the pics, and thanks for any help with clarification.

Once again I apologize for not checking back in a more timely manner. a slip/threaded union actually refers to the type of connection on each end of the fitting. In this case, the slip fit is on the end the pipe goes into (and it has to be glued, of course), and the threaded end is the union end (which it should always be anyway). For instance, you could have a threaded/threaded union, in which case the end the pipe goes into whould be female threaded, and the pipe would have a slip/threaded fitting on it to match up (slip end for the pipe, threaded end for the union).

Make sense??

Yep, I do both. The ball valves stay, and I use winterizing plugs in the returns so I can open up the valves. The valves are glued to the PVC pipe they're attached to, but the skimmer and the returns are threaded, so I used slip/threaded adapters on the pipe and screwed them in.

 

[MikeInTN]

MikeInTN- Nice job Mike, but why'd you need a grounding rod? I hope your pump is grounded to the panel.

The reason I ask is because I ended up doing the electrical for the pool I was having put in because when queried, 2 electricians gave me different answers on requirements. I ended up researching the right way and did in accordance with. What I am hoping is that the electrician in your case misunderstood the geopotential bonding and drove a ground rod and not leaving out the ground to the panel.

Tim

Tim,

The pump and pool are both bonded to the grounding rod.

 

[MikeInTN]

Re: Unionization

Also, If your pump inlet/outlet ports have both 1 1/2 female threads, AND larger male threads on the outside, there is probably a "union kit" available for it. This is a set of two one sided union fittings with collars which attach to the port, which makes up the other side of the union. My kit was only $14 (Hayward). Again, no need for a separate union and makes for easy removal of the pump.

Do you happen to have a part number for this miranda??? Thanks ...
I found it for my Power Flo Matrix - it's SP1500UNPAK2
Now if I could just learn how to "unionize" my skimmer and return without ruining them. I posted my own thread to see if someone could help me with all these unfamiliar terms. Not a dummy, just not a plumber ... :lol:

It should be real easy, as I mentioned in my other post. Your skimmer and returns should be threaded, so the existing fittings should come right out. Glue a slip/threaded adapter on one end of the pipe and a ball valve or union on the other, and you should be good to go.