Finally, it is on! Southeast PA Build

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oakridge said:
Bumping this up in the hopes someone else may have some suggestions on adapter plates for retrofitting a drain cover over my returns. I know...I cannot believe I have drain covers on my returns....
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What does it look like if you just take off the cover and leave it off? With mine I simply have an uncovered return hole coming out of the bottom. It is threaded but nothing is threaded into it.
 
PoolGate said:
What does it look like if you just take off the cover and leave it off? With mine I simply have an uncovered return hole coming out of the bottom. It is threaded but nothing is threaded into it.
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Thanks, below is what it looks like with the cover removed. I have three of these in the floor. The pipe is not threaded, and the drain cover ring is embedded in the plaster. The ring's screw holes are about 7 7/8 inch apart. I believe the pipe is 2" as that is what I have throughout. I want to put a pebble top cover to hide this as best I can, especially since there is one in the shallow end where lots of feet are. You can see the cover I am talking about here:

http://www.poolfittings.com/products/8-inch-vgb-pebble-top-anti-vortex-drain-cover-and-frame

They also have a retrofit one, but the adpater plater is built into a riser ring so the overall height is larger than what I have now. Plus it is only available in 10", which will make the surface area wider as well as higher:

http://www.poolfittings.com/retrofit-pebble-top-drain-cover/

I'd love to just slide a return fitting in the hole, but then the mud ring is exposed. That is why I thought sticking with a very low profile, pebble-top drain cover would be the sleekest, most finished look. At this stage, these appear my options should there be no other alternatives:


  1. Buy the 10" retrofit in the "clear" color, cutting it down to size with a jig saw and then sanding it smooth while hoping it doesn't crack. This would let me get the 8" pebble top one in place and anywhere the cover does not have plaster will be less visible.
  2. The other option is buying there adapter plate that comes with this cover to get the correct size adapter ring and putting the 8" pebble top cover over that, but that one is black and might stick out more than option one.
  3. Put a normal cover on this, hit it with my feet and forever curse myself for leaving this one detail up to the PB or not doing OB :p

I am open to other suggestions if my approach could be improved. Otherwise I hope it is clear why I am looking for some sort of adapter plate.

20180720_082927.jpg


InyoRob said:
You can try reaching out to a company called AquaStar Pool Products. They specialize in drains and fittings. Hopefully, they'll have a flat return fitting that will work for your application.
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Aquastar doesn't seem to have any adapter or pebble top options that fit what I am shooting for above. Maybe I missed it?
 
Well that pic does help us to see what you are dealing with.......I would try calling the pebble cover company and ask to speak to a tech in the back. See what they think. One thing I would do is make sure you have accurate measurements. How far apart the screw holes are, what is the radius of the circle is, etc. That will help them help you.

Rob, after seeing this do you have any ideas?
 
kimkats said:
I would try calling the pebble cover company and ask to speak to a tech in the back. See what they think..
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I called them. They told me they do not sell the adapter separately sadly. that's why I was hoping these adapters were things made by a variety of folks, but that is not the case it seems. Whatever I end up doing, it will have to be salt water compatible.
 
I've decided to purchase the 10" retrofit cover mentioned before. Once it arrives, I'll reassess. If anyone has other suggestions, I am still open. As far as filling the covers with CLI pebble plaster, is that something I can do myself or should I take it to a local plaster company? I still have a bag from when the original plaster was applied that I would use a small amount in order to fill the lid.
 
The 8" pebble top covers will fit just fine in the mud ring pictured above. I don't understand why you need the adapter plate? The 10" covers will be way too big and are very ugly.

The pebble top covers are sold as a set with an 8" cover and a larger 1" standoff ring for high flow applications. I've installed hundreds of these pebble top covers and never used the standoff...you especially don't need it since this is for a return.

Here is one installed:

Screenshot_20180722-175757~2.jpg

90% of the mud rings are compatible with the pebble top covers so I doubt yours will be an issue. In the off chance it is just trim 1/16" off the perimeter of the cover with a grinder.

As for installing the pebble - mix the pebble/plaster mix to the consistency of runny peanut butter and pour into the covers. Let it set up and trowel it flush with the top. Once it becomes firm use a garden hose with a sponge and wash the cream off to expose the pebbles. Keep going until it matches the consistency of your pool finish. If there is a haze or cream left over you can always acid wash them a few hours later.
 

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bdavis466 said:
The 8" pebble top covers will fit just fine in the mud ring pictured above. I don't understand why you need the adapter plate?

....

90% of the mud rings are compatible with the pebble top covers so I doubt yours will be an issue. In the off chance it is just trim 1/16" off the perimeter of the cover with a grinder.
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Thanks! I tried attaching it, but the screw holes didn't line up with the Hayward ring in the pool. The mud ring's screw holes were closer to each other than the pebble top cover. If I make new holes, they would go through where the pebble is applied. That is why I was looking for an adapter. The cover is from poolfittings.com branded as ColorMatch. Maybe there is another brand that is more likely to fit?

I'll try again in case I messed up somehow. I bought the 10" this morning at a discount on ebay so I could cut out the adapter ring as I don't see how cutting the pebble cover as suggested lines up the screw holes. Maybe I'll get it through my thick head after my 2nd attempt.

Thanks for the plaster info. It's looking like rain all week so it may be a few days until I post an update on my 2nd attempt.
 
oakridge said:
Thanks! I tried attaching it, but the screw holes didn't line up with the Hayward ring in the pool. The mud ring's screw holes were closer to each other than the pebble top cover. If I make new holes, they would go through where the pebble is applied. That is why I was looking for an adapter. The cover is from poolfittings.com branded as ColorMatch. Maybe there is another brand that is more likely to fit?

I'll try again in case I messed up somehow. I bought the 10" this morning at a discount on ebay so I could cut out the adapter ring as I don't see how cutting the pebble cover as suggested lines up the screw holes. Maybe I'll get it through my thick head after my 2nd attempt.

Thanks for the plaster info. It's looking like rain all week so it may be a few days until I post an update on my 2nd attempt.
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I was talking about cutting the cover to fit inside the mud ring if the mud ring was too small - thats the only issue I've run into was whatever ring that was used was slightly smaller than I needed it to be.

How close are the screws to lining up? If its within reason, fire those things in at an angle and call it good. If that's not possible then drill a couple holes into the ring where it will line up. The plaster is 3-4" thick in those areas...
 
bdavis466 said:
How close are the screws to lining up? If its within reason, fire those things in at an angle and call it good. If that's not possible then drill a couple holes into the ring where it will line up. The plaster is 3-4" thick in those areas...
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It was not close. So do I need to drain the pool to drill new holes in the mud ring? So far I've been holding my breath, diving and using a screwdriver. If the plastic ring is not thick enough for the length of the screw, can I screw through the ring without compromising the finish? The holes on the cover line up with the main part of the ring and not the ring's screw holes with metal bracings that are offset from the ring.
 
oakridge said:
It was not close. So do I need to drain the pool to drill new holes in the mud ring? So far I've been holding my breath, diving and using a screwdriver. If the plastic ring is not thick enough for the length of the screw, can I screw through the ring without compromising the finish? The holes on the cover line up with the main part of the ring and not the ring's screw holes with metal bracings that are offset from the ring.
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I don't think I would be drilling holes into the bottom of your pool. Have you talked to the builder about what can be done? This is a new pool I think it unwise not to include the builder when you are talking about a structure that has a lifetime warranty (pool shell) that you don't want compromised. Depending on what the builder says, you may need to just live with this.
 
oakridge said:
It was not close. So do I need to drain the pool to drill new holes in the mud ring? So far I've been holding my breath, diving and using a screwdriver. If the plastic ring is not thick enough for the length of the screw, can I screw through the ring without compromising the finish? The holes on the cover line up with the main part of the ring and not the ring's screw holes with metal bracings that are offset from the ring.
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Draining the pool would be the easiest but it's doable underwater with some creativity.

Compressed air powered tools work well underwater but plan on throwing them away when the job is done.

You might want to look at an adhesive to secure the covers instead of dealing with the screws
 
PoolGate said:
Have you talked to the builder about what can be done?
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Yes, they tell me they only install the Hayward fittings. A floor return is a foreign thing to them sadly. I wish I had known.

bdavis466 said:
Draining the pool would be the easiest but it's doable underwater with some creativity.
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Both this and the above push me back to the adapter plate. As I mentioned, I ordered the 10" pebble top drain so I can cut out the universal adapter and eliminate some risks. Once I get it, I'll update on how it goes in case the adapter approach doesn't work or is hideous. Thanks for all the replies, this has given me a lot of options and directions.
 
Hey - long time no talk! We're in the process of building now with A&S and have 2 floor returns spec'd. Should I ask for the covers before it's plastered?
 

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