Filter Gauge On/Off Readings

dielseman

Well-known member
Jul 1, 2017
300
GA
Pool Size
8500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hi all, the readings on my filter gauge are turning on/off while the pump is running. The gauge readings are below 10 when the pump starts, then the gauge stops showing any readings. The control panel says lo flow and 0% chlorine production. What does this mean?
 
Most likely you need to clean your filter.
Or you have some type of constriction somewhere.
Post pictures of your equipment pad so we can see all the valves and their positions.
 
When did you last clean your filter?

Does the filter gauge read 0 when the pump is off? If not, it needs replacement,

Remove the cartridge and run your pump without the cartridge. If things work normally then clean or replace the cartridge.

 
D-man,

What speed is your pump running???

With a large VS pump and a large cartridge filter, a 60 lb. gauge might not show any pressure at all if the pump is only running at a low RPM.

My filter pressure, with a 30 lb. gauge is only about 1 pound when running at 1200 RPM...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
D-man,

What speed is your pump running???

With a large VS pump and a large cartridge filter, a 60 lb. gauge might not show any pressure at all if the pump is only running at a low RPM.

My filter pressure, with a 30 lb. gauge is only about 1 pound when running at 1200 RPM...

Thanks,

Jim R.
1500 RPM. The filter was cleaned within the last few months. The gauge does show a readings briefly, then shuts off.
 
 
So what should I do?
Clean your filter.
Run your pump at 3000 RPM. Note clean pressure. Every so often, run your pump up to 3000 RPM. When you find pressure has risen 25%, the clean the filter again.
Lower your pump in 100 RPM increments (from 3000) until you get a low flow alert on the SWG. Then add 200 RPM to that number and use that for running 24/7. This will allow some room for your filter to get dirty without shutting down your SWG.
 
Clean your filter.
Run your pump at 3000 RPM. Note clean pressure. Every so often, run your pump up to 3000 RPM. When you find pressure has risen 25%, the clean the filter again.
Lower your pump in 100 RPM increments (from 3000) until you get a low flow alert on the SWG. Then add 200 RPM to that number and use that for running 24/7. This will allow some room for your filter to get dirty without shutting down your SWG.
Cleaning a filter within a few months? Doesn't this seem a bit too soon. So even though others are able to run their pump at lower RPMs, I may have to increase the speed? I thought lo flo referred to the SWG not working.
 

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You need a baseline with a clean filter. Both for knowing when to clean, and how much flow you need for the SWG.

Gauge will be low psi on low RPM and won't show the increase in pressure in a way that is reasonable. You need to run at 3000 RPM to note pressure changes.

I may have to increase the speed? I thought lo flo referred to the SWG not working.

You may, or your filter is dirty. It also may be that your SWG flow switch is bad.

So, do this:
Run your pump at 3000RPM. Note if the pressure rises (ensure the gauge is working/accurate), and note if the low flow error goes away.
If the gauge is working and the flow error goes away, Clean your filter.
Run your pump at 3000 RPM. Note clean pressure. Every so often, run your pump up to 3000 RPM. When you find pressure has risen 25%, the clean the filter again.
Lower your pump in 100 RPM increments (from 3000) until you get a low flow alert on the SWG. Then add 200 RPM to that number and use that for running 24/7. This will allow some room for your filter to get dirty without shutting down your SWG.

If the gauge is not working, or doesn't go back to zero, replace the gauge.
If the low flow error does not go away, your flow switch is likely bad.
 
Last edited:
You need a baseline with a clean filter. Both for knowing when to clean, and how much flow you need for the SWG.

Gauge will be low psi on low RPM and won't show the increase in pressure in a way that is reasonable. You need to run at 3000 RPM to note pressure changes.



You may, or your filter is dirty. It also may be that your SWG flow switch is bad.

So, do this:
Run your pump at 3000RPM. Note if the pressure rises (ensure the gauge is working/accurate), and note if the low flow error goes away.
If the gauge is working and the flow error goes away, Clean your filter.
Run your pump at 3000 RPM. Note clean pressure. Every so often, run your pump up to 3000 RPM. When you find pressure has risen 25%, the clean the filter again.
Lower your pump in 100 RPM increments (from 3000) until you get a low flow alert on the SWG. Then add 200 RPM to that number and use that for running 24/7. This will allow some room for your filter to get dirty without shutting down your SWG.

If the gauge is not working, or doesn't go back to zero, replace the gauge.
If the low flow error does not go away, your flow switch is likely bad.
I ran the pump at 3000 RPM. The gauge remained slightly below 10 for a while but the lo flow message still appeared on the panel. Is there a certain amount of time I need to run the pump for the lo flow message to go away?
 
The panel displays a lo flo and 0% chlorine production message. It is my understanding the that the 0% chlorine message is related to the SWG not running due to the low pool temperature, below 55'. The confusion I am having is as it relates to the lo flo message. When I adjust the pump to 3000 RPMs (as others have recommended on here to determine proper RPM speed) both messages still appear, but the filter cartridge gauge has readings. As soon as I drop the pump below 2,400 RPMs the filter cartridge gauge has no readings. So it is my understanding that my pump must run at 2,400 RPM or higher to filter the water. I don't understand why I am stukk getting a lo flo message though when the cartridge was cleaned within the last month.
 
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Cold Water Operation.​

The display will show the LO code. LO indicates the temperature of Pool is < 54ºF (12.2°C). Chlorine production is stopped.

From Page 39 of the Installation Manual:

Chlorine production is not permitted below 51°F (11°C); operating the chlorinator in cold water might result in over-chlorinated pool water.

If more chlorine is needed, activating the “Boost” mode will override this cold water feature allowing chlorine production for 24 hours of operation.

This applies to the Jandy AquaPure and the Nature2 FusionSoft as they are sister products.

An optional "Spool" Piece (sold separately) used to be available to replace the cell during winterizing or cell maintenance.

This piece has been discontinued and is no longer available.

In addition, the AquaPure threads are proprietary, and Jandy does not offer replacement proprietary unions (the "male" piece).

If removing the cell is desired so that water may circulate without the cell, specialized plumbing would need to be added during installation of the cell.

One method is an additional PVC union after each end of the cell.

This method would require the purchase of 4 unions.

2 for when the cell is installed and 1/2 of the other 2 unions (the "male" 1/2) for the creation of the bypass pipe.

When a FREEZE CONTROLLER is used on pump equipment and the chlorinator is run through the winter, turn the CHLORINE PRODUCTION down to 10 - 20%.
 
I presume when there are no readings on the filter cartridge gauge that means the RPM for the filter pump is too low. Once I lower the filter pump RPM below 2400, the gauge goes to 0 on the filter cartridge.
 

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