FC 0.5, CC 0.5, CYA 0, pool green

primuspaul

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2018
129
NYC area
Based on these two tests:

FAS-DPD Chlorine Test
CYA – Cyanuric Acid Test

I'm pretty sure I did it right.

1. How many gallons of 8.25% bleach should I expect to need? 30 gallons, 6 to start?
2. How much of this should I pour in? Pool Time 5 lb. Chlorine Stabilizer-23517PTM - The Home Depot - 2 whole containers?

I already have some of these:

I assume those are pointless to add until CYA is correct.
 
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PoolMath

This will answer all those questions for you based off your pool size etc. as far as how many gallons of bleach you will need, I’m assuming you are going to SLAM? Have a picture of your pool?

With a CYA of zero, I wouldn’t add any until you are sure you don’t have an ammonia problem.
 
PoolMath

This will answer all those questions for you based off your pool size etc. as far as how many gallons of bleach you will need, I’m assuming you are going to SLAM? Have a picture of your pool?

With a CYA of zero, I wouldn’t add any until you are sure you don’t have an ammonia problem.
Cannot see bottom of deep end. The water is new this season, so it's possible CYA is 0. Pool math suggested 6 gal of bleach to get to target level and about 125 oz stabilizer to get to 30.
 

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If you have not added any CYA, there is none in there with a fresh fill.

Add 30 ppm worth of CYA using the sock method.
I doubt you will find 8.25% bleach, all household bleach is now 6% and most have additives. Best to look for 10% liquid chlorine at Walmart, Home Depot, etc.
Add 12 ppm FC worth of chlorine once you get the CYA dissolving. Test and add more LC every couple hours. Brush as often as you can.
 

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Is this what I need to add before I deal with the chlorine?
110897

It look slike I need 10 lbs (5x2) of the stabilizer. Can't tell the specs on the acid/pH down. Can someone give some advice?

Looks like I already have a gal of muriatic acid. Any way to tell its specs?
 

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That stabilizer is fine.

Best if you can use muriatic acid. Storage of it is an issue. Needs to be kept outdoors, away from metal items. I use a 20 gallon plastic trash can with lid to store the bottles.
 
That stabilizer is fine.

Best if you can use muriatic acid. Storage of it is an issue. Needs to be kept outdoors, away from metal items. I use a 20 gallon plastic trash can with lid to store the bottles.
So I'll sock 10 lbs of the stabilizer at the deep end and pour 1 gal of the acid magic (it says it's "muriatic acid" on the bottle) around the perimeter, + add 3 of HTH Super Shock Treatment after sundown tonight and measure tomorrow morning?

Does Alkalinity play a role in this? Haven't tested since didn't see it as a step in SLAM.
 
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Alkalinity plays a role in PH stabilization and how pool math calculates how much of that to fix lower/increase your PH if I’m not mistaken. For instance, if my PH is 7.8 and TA is 120, pool math would have me add 15 oz of acid to lower to 7.4. But if my TA was only 60 I would only add 8.4 oz. to get to 7.4 so it plays a role there. Idk if There is something else to look for with TA and concrete though.
 
Can you please post all the tests prior to slam? Turn on CSI in PoolMath so it shows that too.

Cal hypo will raise your CH. Don’t know what yours is so unsure if you can afford to add more.

I highly recommend knowing what’s in your pool via your tests and what’s in what you’re adding (for muriatic acid, etc.) so you don’t overshoot.
 
You do need your current TA to determine how much acid to use to lower the pH. The acid you show above is 14.5% I believe.

Best to use liquid chlorine. But you can use cal hypo if you have it.

120oz of stabilizer is not 10 lbs.
 
Can you please post all the tests prior to slam? Turn on CSI in PoolMath so it shows that too.

Cal hypo will raise your CH. Don’t know what yours is so unsure if you can afford to add more.

I highly recommend knowing what’s in your pool via your tests and what’s in what you’re adding (for muriatic acid, etc.) so you don’t overshoot.
Those are the test prior to the SLAM as I haven't slammed it yet. Basically pH is a bit high and CYA/FC are 0. The acid is probably typical low grade 14.5% like mknauss suggested.
 

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