FC 0.5, CC 0.5, CYA 0, pool green

[primuspaul]

You do need your current TA to determine how much acid to use to lower the pH. The acid you show above is 14.5% I believe.

Best to use liquid chlorine. But you can use cal hypo if you have it.

120oz of stabilizer is not 10 lbs.

I don't know if the stores around here sell liquid chlorine. Best I've seen is bleach.

So how many lbs of that stabilizer do I need to add to reach 120oz?
nvm figured it out, didn't know you could mouse over to see lbs. I guess I have to add 7.5 lbs or 1.5 of those 5 lb containers I posted.

 

[IceShadow]

FC: 0.5
CC: 0.5
pH: 7.8
TA: ?
CYA: 0
CH: ?

Do I have that right? What are the question mark values?

 

[mknauss]

I don't know if the stores around here sell liquid chlorine. Best I've seen is bleach.

Same thing. Liquid chlorine is normally 10% or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite. Bleach is normally 6% or less.

Do add the CYA using the sock method:
Add the CYA by using what we call the sock method. Get an old sock (no holes) and put the measured amount of CYA you need. Tie the sock closed and either suspend it in front of a return (hang it from your brush pole works with something weighted on the deck) OR if it still allows flow thru the skimmer, place the sock in the skimmer. Every 15/20 minutes give the sock a squeeze to speed up the process. Please DO NOT follow the directions on the container of CYA to just pour it into the skimmer and don't just toss the sock in the pool as the CYA is acidic and can bleach/stain pool finishes.

 

[IceShadow]

There are 16oz in 1lb. 120oz = 7.5 lbs.

 

[primuspaul]

FC: 0.5
CC: 0.5
pH: 7.8
TA: ?
CYA: 0
CH: ?

Do I have that right? What are the question mark values?

Yes you have it right, though possibly FC is as low as 0. I haven't tested TA/CH since I read it wasn't that important.

 

[IceShadow]

You need to know TA or you won’t know how much acid to add to lower the pH. The higher the TA, the more acid is needed.

You need to monitor CH with a concrete pool to be sure it doesn’t go too low and give you pitting, or too high to build up scale.

 

[mknauss]

I haven't tested TA/CH since I read it wasn't that important.

You do need your current TA to determine how much acid to use to lower the pH.

 

[primuspaul]

You need to know TA or you won’t know how much acid to add to lower the pH. The higher the TA, the more acid is needed.

You need to monitor CH with a concrete pool to be sure it doesn’t go too low and give you pitting, or too high to build up scale.

TA - not sure what the result is, here is how it went:

11th drop - turned from clear to pink
12th drop - turned magenta/solid pink

 

[IceShadow]

Count that as 120. Basically you go until no change with a drop and then don’t count that last drop. CH test is done the same way.

 

[primuspaul]

Count that as 120. Basically you go until no change with a drop and then don’t count that last drop. CH test is done the same way.

CH is probably about 187.5 (7.5 x 25) or 200. I guess I never really worried about the cement. We replace the cement as it cracks and loses strength, hammering it out and repairing with new cement.

Also, I assume I need to FIRST fill with enough pool water to get the speedstir cylinder to the appropriate level for the test, THEN add the speedstir magnetic pill, THEN add drop/stir for each drop.

 

[primuspaul]

So basically what I'll do tonight is add 7.5 lbs of CYA via SOCK, pour the entire gallon of acid into the pool, and shock with 3 of those HTH I already have. I'll do in evening so CYA should be dissolved by sunrise.

Then I'll test again tomorrow and also see if I can acquire some bleach (or liq chlorine if they have it) for the following week.

...oh, can I add the CYA to a sock and put it into a pool floater/dispenser?

 

[mknauss]

You can start all this now. Get the CYA into sock(s) and get dissolving. Add the acid and 30 minutes later test your pH. If near 7.2, add the liquid chlorine to get to 12 ppm FC. Test FC every 2-3 hours and add chlorine to get back to 12 ppm.

 

[primuspaul]

You can start all this now. Get the CYA into sock(s) and get dissolving. Add the acid and 30 minutes later test your pH. If near 7.2, add the liquid chlorine to get to 12 ppm FC. Test FC every 2-3 hours and add chlorine to get back to 12 ppm.

Not sure I can test every 2-3 hours. Maybe tomorrow, but I will be at work after that. Can do it maybe twice a day.

 

[mknauss]

Understood on the testing. If the first day you can do it more often, great. During the week can you get to it in the morning, after work, and before bed? Anyone home during the day that can add some liquid chlorine?

 

[Lemonred34]

Just test as often as you can. As someone who started a slam working 16 hour shifts, I get it. My mother was nice enough to stop by to add a gallon or two for me during those days. The more often you can test and add the quicker this goes. Three times a day would be better if you are able to swing it but I wouldn’t go less than twice a day.

 

[primuspaul]

Understood on the testing. If the first day you can do it more often, great. During the week can you get to it in the morning, after work, and before bed? Anyone home during the day that can add some liquid chlorine?

Someone can add. Nobody else can test.

 

[IceShadow]

You’ll get an idea of how much you’re adding tomorrow. That could give you an idea of how much to ask someone to add!

 

[primuspaul]

I'm curious as to how the math of HTH bags vs liquid chlorine works. HTH is sold at $2.50 / lb and is 56% chlorine. What's the math on liquid chlorine you guys are buying?

 

[mknauss]

One lb of your cal hypo adds 2.1 ppm FC to your pool.
It takes 80 ounces of 10% liquid chlorine to add the same FC.

Depending on what you pay for liquid chlorine, you can do the math. Typically is close to a wash.

 

[IceShadow]

I find liquid chlorine more user-friendly - don’t need to mix it in a bucket and then pour it in, just pour the liquid chlorine in at a return jet.