Entering TA into PoolMath calculator

Cherylpool

Member
Dec 15, 2021
17
Troup, TX
Pool Size
36000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi Community,

First, thanks for everything you have taught me. New pool owner, reluctant, when buying my house. But we are now becoming friends thanks to all your help

36K gunite pool. My question is: When I enter the TA amount, do I enter the amount after adjusted for cya or the amount from the test kit per the drops.

I struggle with low TA and High PH. I do see that the tfp method has a different value for the TA so I may try staying at that lower amount. PH is affected by an overflow spa but that cannot be corrected as it is part of the filtration system. My PH wants to be in the 8 to 8.1 range and the rain water here seems to be alkaline and rises after a rain.

My CYA is high at 90. Are there any health concerns swimming in a pool with high cya

Thanks All, Happy 4th,
Cheryl
 
When I enter the TA amount, do I enter the amount after adjusted for cya or the amount from the test kit per the drops.
Just enter what you test. The APP takes care of any/all adjustments.

As for the CYA, the biggest thing you have to do is maintain the elevated corresponding FC level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Hopefully the CYA will degrade a bit in the next month or two.
 
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I see u list trichlor in your signature.
That will make your cya continue to rise.
Liquid chlorine doesn’t have this problem.
 
Just enter what you test. The APP takes care of any/all adjustments.

As for the CYA, the biggest thing you have to do is maintain the elevated corresponding FC level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Hopefully the CYA will degrade a bit in the next month or two.
Thanks. Although when just considering the TA, I still look at the TA as corrected for CYA as far as the range goes? In other words if my CYA is 90, my PH 7.7 and my tested TA 125 then my TA is 94 which is the desired range.

As far as the cya/ fc chart. If I understand that correctly then you want my FC to be at a 7 which is way out of range. My water is crystal clear and clean. I cannot imagine swimming in a fc of 7. The only time I had trouble with the pool was after winter. Before winter my CYA was high at 90, I took out the tabs and it dropped to 45. When I took the cover off and continued with the bleach routine, for the first time my pool got a tiny bit of green on the pool walls. That spooked me so I put the tabs back in and ( well..... an old story) before I knew it, I was back up to 90.

The tabs are out now and I add 6 to 8 cups of bleach every evening which is keeping my pool looking great and the TC and FC at about 2.25

I keep my pool very clean.

But the pool seems to hold well at this level. I add water about every other day and rain so I think I will take it down again slowly.

Happy 4th.
 
I see u list trichlor in your signature.
That will make your cya continue to rise.
Liquid chlorine doesn’t have this problem.
Thank you. Yes since I have learned the tfp way, I am only now using liquid bleach. While learning I did rely for a couple months on the tabs and Leslie testing. My tests were usually close and I kept reading this blog until I trusted myself and my own testing.
 
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If I understand that correctly then you want my FC to be at a 7 which is way out of range. My water is crystal clear and clean. I cannot imagine swimming in a fc of 7.
You need to raise your FC to at or above target each day.
FC is based on CYA level. A FC of 7 ppm is of no issue, especially with any CYA in the water. The active chlorine in your pool with a FC of 7 ppm and a CYA of 30 ppm is a fraction of that in normal tap water.
 
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You need to raise your FC to at or above target each day.
FC is based on CYA level. A FC of 7 ppm is of no issue, especially with any CYA in the water. The active chlorine in your pool with a FC of 7 ppm and a CYA of 30 ppm is a fraction of that in normal tap water.
Yikes, OK. Sometimes this site takes you on a leap of faith. The CSI seems to stay the same regardless of the PH level I have or the 7.
 

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Pool stores do that. TFPC does not. There is no need. Poolmath handles anything necessary that needs it adjusted.
I have the test kit Taylor 2006C. The test kit says that TA is referring to all the alkalinity in the pool, including the cya. It gives you a formula to calculate the real TA based on your tested alkalinity, the cya and the ph. formula TA - (cya x .35) acutally the PH determines the amount multiplied. 7.2 = .26 up to 8 = .36
 
I have the test kit Taylor 2006C. The test kit says that TA is referring to all the alkalinity in the pool, including the cya. It gives you a formula to calculate the real TA based on your tested alkalinity, the cya and the ph. formula TA - (cya x .35) acutally the PH determines the amount multiplied. 7.2 = .26 up to 8 = .36
We understand that. But Poolmath handles that for the calculations that the TA is used for. So enter the test value of TA into Poolmath.
 
Thanks. Although when just considering the TA, I still look at the TA as corrected for CYA as far as the range goes? In other words if my CYA is 90, my PH 7.7 and my tested TA 125 then my TA is 94 which is the desired range.

As far as the cya/ fc chart. If I understand that correctly then you want my FC to be at a 7 which is way out of range. My water is crystal clear and clean. I cannot imagine swimming in a fc of 7. The only time I had trouble with the pool was after winter. Before winter my CYA was high at 90, I took out the tabs and it dropped to 45. When I took the cover off and continued with the bleach routine, for the first time my pool got a tiny bit of green on the pool walls. That spooked me so I put the tabs back in and ( well..... an old story) before I knew it, I was back up to 90.

The tabs are out now and I add 6 to 8 cups of bleach every evening which is keeping my pool looking great and the TC and FC at about 2.25

I keep my pool very clean.

But the pool seems to hold well at this level. I add water about every other day and rain so I think I will take it down again slowly.

Happy 4th.
Cheryl,
Sad to say, but u have been greatly undersanitizing your pool if your cya is 90, 7ppm is the minimum your fc should ever go - anything less & nasties will grow 🤢you should be targeting 🎯 12ppm daily to ensure fc doesn’t drop below minimum. FC/CYA Levels
Clear water doesn’t always equal sanitary water or else you would only receive boil water notices from your municipality when your water looked bad.
It is perfectly safe to swim at fc levels anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the pool for safety.
The ph test is inaccurate at fc levels above 10ppm- so you could see how this presents an issue with trying to maintain sanitary & balanced water at higher cya levels.
 
Hi Cheryl,
I agree that you are living "on the edge" with a CYA of 90 and a FC of 2.25. In the heat of summer, I raise my CYA to 50 and that gives me a "comfy" range of 5-8 ppm FC. That said, when my FC dips to 7, I immediately bump it back up to 9-9.5 ppm. A little "warm" does no harm and allows me an extra margin of safety, should life get in the way, and I drop down to 5-6 ppm of FC. (Also, no green hair, no loss of skin, etc., etc. from the slightly warm FC.) :eek:

Truth be told, at age 70, if I ever test my pool (once opened) and see FC at 2ppm, it might be time for "the Big One!" LOL. TFP methodology is the simplest form of pool care we've ever used; I would personally not want to worry about all those needless calculations you are doing. But then I'm a true follower of the KISS method concerning nearly everything that I have to maintain. Age will do that to ya!

Good luck on your journey and get some more chlorine into that pool! :)
 
Cheryl,
Sad to say, but u have been greatly undersanitizing your pool if your cya is 90, 7ppm is the minimum your fc should ever go - anything less & nasties will grow 🤢you should be targeting 🎯 12ppm daily to ensure fc doesn’t drop below minimum. FC/CYA Levels
Clear water doesn’t always equal sanitary water or else you would only receive boil water notices from your municipality when your water looked bad.
It is perfectly safe to swim at fc levels anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the pool for safety.
The ph test is inaccurate at fc levels above 10ppm- so you could see how this presents an issue with trying to maintain sanitary & balanced water at higher cya levels.
Ok. Thanks everyone for the dose of reality. The pool looks great but I will plan on draining water out a little at a time and get the cya back down. funny thing is, I had it down and that was the only time I saw some hints of green. Anyway, to hit my pool at FC 7 would take at least two gallons of bleach a day which is about 6.50 a gallon at wallmart now. Any other places to buy and better percentages that you suggest.
 
Hi Cheryl,
I agree that you are living "on the edge" with a CYA of 90 and a FC of 2.25. In the heat of summer, I raise my CYA to 50 and that gives me a "comfy" range of 5-8 ppm FC. That said, when my FC dips to 7, I immediately bump it back up to 9-9.5 ppm. A little "warm" does no harm and allows me an extra margin of safety, should life get in the way, and I drop down to 5-6 ppm of FC. (Also, no green hair, no loss of skin, etc., etc. from the slightly warm FC.) :eek:

Truth be told, at age 70, if I ever test my pool (once opened) and see FC at 2ppm, it might be time for "the Big One!" LOL. TFP methodology is the simplest form of pool care we've ever used; I would personally not want to worry about all those needless calculations you are doing. But then I'm a true follower of the KISS method concerning nearly everything that I have to maintain. Age will do that to ya!

Good luck on your journey and get some more chlorine into that pool! :)
well everytime I think I have this figured out, I find out I Don't!!!! I'll get it though, with a little help from my friends, Thanks All
 
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