empty salt H20 pool down clean out vs washing machine. hose vs 1.5" vs 2" hose

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The pic in post #172 is of the pump interface.
Service mode allows you to control the pump using the pumps in-built interface control.
That interface is on top of and at the rear of the pump, under the flap.
Once that flap is opened, the interface looks exactly as shown in post #172.
 
somehow I didn't remember that I could do anything with buttons at the pump. I think I changed it to rpms at the pump but I don't know what do to next or how to get out of there. I'm hoping it'll just lock up on it's own again. I put T1 at 2900 and T2 at 600. that's the lowest it'll let me go. Remember I have pop ups. Maybe that matters, too? I pressed + to save it on the pump and on the panel it still says % not RPMs.
 
600 is too low
You need to determine the lowest speed that will close the SWG flow switch- add 100 to 200 rpm to that and set the pump to that speed for T2. If that speed is below 1000 rpm, set T2 to 1000 rpm minimum.

If it didn't change on the ProLogic panel, there must be a way to set percentage or rpm there also.
Someone who knows the ins and outs of the ProLogic automation will need to help you.

I took your IFCS into account. That's why I suggested the higher rpm for T1.

In the mean time - test and report in PoolMath.
That is the most important thing right now.
 
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proavia said:
600 is too low
You need to determine the lowest speed that will close the SWG flow switch- add 100 to 200 rpm to that and set the pump to that speed for T2. If that speed is below 1000 rpm, set T2 to 1000 rpm minimum.

If it didn't change on the ProLogic panel, there must be a way to set percentage or rpm there also.
Someone who knows the ins and outs of the ProLogic automation will need to help you.

I took your IFCS into account. That's why I suggested the higher rpm for T1.

In the mean time - test and report in PoolMath.
That is the most important thing right now.
Click to expand...
I wish I remember what it was set at earlier. I'll take a look at everything now and test. What's IFCS?
 
IFCS = In-Floor Cleaning System

If you read thru your previous posts you will find the speed setting previously set.
But that T2 setting was too high.

Look at my previous posts on how to determine the lowest speed the SWG will run at. Follow the suggestions there.
 
1. according to the instructions that JamesW sent, 100% = 3450 RPMs so I'll try to do the math and set my T2 back to a little lower than it was before but I'm mostly guessing. The panel is still showing %. T1 is 95% on the panel and T2 is 50% so if the panel is the 1 that's driving how it's running, T1 is running about 3277.5 RPM and if T2 is half of 3450 it's running at 1725 RPM. I think the pump is what's in charge, not the panel cuz when I pressed + to save the settings, the pump shut off and restarted.
On the pump I put 1300 RPM as the min allowed speed, left it at 8 min prime.

So, now the more I think about this, I'm confused how this converts to the panel. what's the 95% and what's the 50%? I don't see anything re T1 and T2 on the pump, just max and minimum so why have percentages? Percentages of which RPM#?

2. FC16.5
pH7.5
TA80
-0.30

I wasn't going to bother with TA cuz my pH is 7.5 and FC is high so I don't plan on adding acid but I figured u would want to see it and u gave me another reason why it's important but I'll have to look back to be reminded. Then I realize next time I'll hand stir it towards after where could be 60 cuz at 80 it didn't show 80 until I hand stirred. U know how the magnets get in an odd place and it stirs the h20 but not great-well that really matters with this test. It seems like some tests rn't as sensitive that they do ok. Maybe I should have a chop stick in my pool kit to help move the magnet in a different position.

3. I shut off my pump cuz I realize I may be running it longer when I go mess with it, so that may also be increasing the FC.
4. Now I'm off to do the bucket test
 
proavia said:
IFCS = In-Floor Cleaning System

If you read thru your previous posts you will find the speed setting previously set.
But that T2 setting was too high.

Look at my previous posts on how to determine the lowest speed the SWG will run at. Follow the suggestions there.
Click to expand...
I'll look back at this. My post took a while to write as I was working on figuring out the pump so I hadn't seen this.
 

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You reported your pump schedule starts at 3AM and ends at 1PM - for a total of 10 hours of pump run time. There are two speeds set - 95% (4 hours for IFCS functionality) and 50% (6 hours).
During the entire run cycle (10 hours), your SWG will be making chlorine.
Do NOT shut the pump off (except for maintenance) during those times. If you do shut it off, turn it back on so it runs during the hours you provided previously.

Make sure the automation is NOT in service mode when you walk away from the panel. If you forget to put the automation back in auto-mode, the pump won't run and the SWG won't make any chlorine. And if you aren't making chlorine, you know what happens.

Re-read what I suggested for speeds above. If you can't figure out how to change the automation from percentage to RPMs, just leave it as is for now.

In PoolMath - you need to enter the correct water temperature to get a correct CSI.
The 90° you entered a few days ago is incorrect. Your water temp is probably in the 70's.

What makes you think you have a leak?
I'm too invested with your water quality and don't have time to review 190+ posts in this thread to find out about your potential leak.

Stay focused on the water quality - once that is 100% dialed in, you can start to look at the other items.
You are all over the place in this thread and losing sight of the immediate goal - stay focused on the water quality and getting the SWG set correctly.
One thing at a time with your pool for now.

We have both been here over 8 years. For almost 7 of those years, I've been invested in you getting your pool set up correctly thru the help I've provided during that time period. Now is the time for you to get it right.
 
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1. I took the 90 degree temp off of the app from a few days ago.

2. As for one thing at a time. I do better jumping on thing when it's suggested to me and if I have time. I understand it may pull some attention away and I know you don't like when I do that. I hope I'm doing a decent job juggling all of this. I know I should've checked pool yesterday and I could always do better.

-the leak topic came up when the pool tech came out recently and he said that my auto fill shouldn't be running all of the time and he noticed it in the past and meant to tell me before. He said it could mean a leak. I've had the bucket in the h20 since Wed at noon. It's been 48 hrs. There r 4 millimeters less H20 in the bucket than the pool, so that sounds like good news. sounds like human error which makes it less trustworthy but still good news. I have an irrigation guy who was supposed to come now at noon, so I'll have to turn back on the auto fill if he comes and if not I'll continue that test for a while.

3. As for the pump RPMs... I'll look through the posts this weekend.

4. testing:

8am this morning:
CYA dissolved, Yesterday there was still some CYA so CYA ready to check Monday morning

An hour ago today:
FC11.5
pH7.8
TA80 (purple at 70 but not red til 80)
CSI-0.07

Added 64 oz MA to get pH to 7.2

Thx for all your help! I'm planning on getting it right! I have a feeling it'll never be how you'd do it but I hope I'm still on the TFP "way" and overall as I move very very slow I'm hopeful I won't get algae again. I just told a neighbor about TFP yesterday. She said she spent $400 on pool chemical this week! I'm grateful I've at least never done something like that since even though I haven't been as consistent as needed I've learned some of what not to do (never buy algaeside...) and what to do if there's algae. I do take a lot of time to learn some things am I'm grateful for your help.
 
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irrigation guy didn't show up Fri so I continued the bucket test until yesterday afternoon when kids wanted to get in the pool. It was hard to tell for sure but I don't see signs of a leak, so that's good. If there is one it's not obvious with the bucket test, anyway.

I'm on 2d day of a migraine so I'm doing the minimum right now. Tomorrow will be 48 hrs after CYA has been dissolved so I'll plan on doing a more thorough testing then.

today's testing:
FC9.5
CC0 interesting this was zero. yesterday before the kids got in it was .5
pH7.5
 
I'm going to test and check the pump now. I had a chance at 6pm but since I had to turn on the pump to test then I didn't end up having time to test. Since the daylight is gone I'll have to wait to do CYA until tomorrow. I try to do it at noon per the directions but lately getting sunlight is all I'm looking for. There's a chance I may have time around 1230 tomorrow or I'll do it around 4pm. I have a reminder set.
 
Gene, Unfortunately, I'm lost with the RPM and trying to figure out T2 should be set (min + 200). I'll just deal with the higher electric bill in this case. We rarely pay over $200/mth so it may not be horribly high. Next time I have the pool tech out I'll ask him. I don't forsee needing him for anything but I'm not making sense of any of what I read or anything I've tried. I'll get CYA and TA levels done tomorrow. thx
 
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pic1 is TA70 (that's when it first changed more pink). pic 2 is TA80. which is the TA? 80, correct?

my latest results:
FC8.5
pH7.8 (7.5 was probably not accurate last night-hard to tell at night, even on white background). I'm erasing it from app.
TA80
CYA70
Temp79
CSI-0.13

I'll add 76 oz MA assuming my theory that my current TA is 80 to get it to 70.
 

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outdoorsgal said:
pic1 is TA70 (that's when it first changed more pink). pic 2 is TA80. which is the TA? 80, correct?

my latest results:
FC8.5
pH7.8 (7.5 was probably not accurate last night-hard to tell at night, even on white background). I'm erasing it from app.
TA80
CYA70
Temp79
CSI-0.13

I'll add 76 oz MA assuming my theory that my current TA is 80 to get it to 70.
Click to expand...
When there’s no further change is the end point. Likely 80.
So example- 70 purple, 80pink, 90same pink = result of 80
 
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looks like I finally made it to the "sweet spot" with TA.
FC8.5
pH7.5
TA70
Temp80
CSI-0.50

So now I can try to get and keep my CSI within range, by allowing my pH to get to 7.8/8 then dropping it to 7.5 or continue to drop it to 7.2 when I add? And keep the FC about where it's at now.
 
outdoorsgal said:
looks like I finally made it to the "sweet spot" with TA.
FC8.5
pH7.5
TA70
Temp80
CSI-0.50

So now I can try to get and keep my CSI within range, by allowing my pH to get to 7.8/8 then dropping it to 7.5 or continue to drop it to 7.2 when I add? And keep the FC about where it's at now.
Click to expand...
Fc is 👍🏻
You may need to take ph to 7.2 if your ta rises due to your fill water otherwise just 7.5 is probably fine. The idea here is that you check ta every few acid doses to see what’s going on & see if its rising & so you don’t risk it getting too low. (Below 50)
Monitor your ch at least monthly & adjust the other parameters to keep csi neutral to slightly negative so scaling isn’t an issue.
Are you using softened water for the autofill? I forgot…
Play around with the csi calculator to get an idea of what future changes will look like & how to adjust for them such as warmer water, increased ch etc. & how you’ll need to compensate with ta & ph to stay in the good zone so it’s not a surprise.
So long as you’re within recommended levels you’re on the right path
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What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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