This morning the spa drained but only by few inches, water stayed still above the jets. Unfortunately my spouse put the pool to auto mode before I could take a picture. I will repeat what I did and take picture again tomorrow.
Elevated spa drains
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R,
Well we know the spa drained some... So, fill it back up, set the Make-up valve to off, and then see if the spa drains at all with the pump off.
What about the wet spot by the fence???
Thanks,
Jim R.
Well we know the spa drained some... So, fill it back up, set the Make-up valve to off, and then see if the spa drains at all with the pump off.
What about the wet spot by the fence???
Thanks,
Jim R.
The wet spot is still a mystery as it is oozing out of the ground, I am suspecting it could be a sprinkler since we turned on the sprinkler for first time last week since we moved to this new home. It is hard to relate since both spa draining and sprinkler test were simultaneous. Interestingly, this morning when sprinklers went off by schedule for first time, the water near the ground is not visible but just the mud is wet. Will have to do some trials and see what event is causing water to ooze out from the ground. We also have neighbors sprinklers being turned on and it makes our yard close to their side of the fence soaking wet. So have to rule out one thing at a time. I will off the pool now and close the makeup valve and see what is the outcome.
R,
If the spa does not drain down, with the make-up valve shut off, then most likely the check valve in the make-line is bad or dirty..
But I like your one step at a time approach..
Keep in mind you will still need to fix or replace the Intake actuator.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If the spa does not drain down, with the make-up valve shut off, then most likely the check valve in the make-line is bad or dirty..
But I like your one step at a time approach..
Keep in mind you will still need to fix or replace the Intake actuator.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Waited overnight to see if spa drains, voila water stayed at the same level since I turned off the pump, This is with make up valve set to off towards spa spill over. And the wet spot behind the spa is also dry. What should I do next? So check valve and actuator switch to be replaced right? Can I turn the pump on with makeup vale off till we get the parts replaced?
R,
You can run the system with the make-up valve off for day or so, but NO fresh water will ever get to the spa...
What I would do... is leave the system in the Pool mode.. do not go into the spa mode, so the Intake actuator will never move. Do this with the make-up valve open.. It does not matter if the spa drains down a little with the pump off.
I'd replace the Intake actuator and the 'guts' to the Make-up check valve.
While waiting for parts, I'd run the system for 24 hours and see if the wet spot returns or not.
Do you have a VS pump or single speed pump? If you have a VS pump, there is almost no reason to turn it off if you are running at a low rpm..
Thanks,
Jim R.
You can run the system with the make-up valve off for day or so, but NO fresh water will ever get to the spa...
What I would do... is leave the system in the Pool mode.. do not go into the spa mode, so the Intake actuator will never move. Do this with the make-up valve open.. It does not matter if the spa drains down a little with the pump off.
I'd replace the Intake actuator and the 'guts' to the Make-up check valve.
While waiting for parts, I'd run the system for 24 hours and see if the wet spot returns or not.
Do you have a VS pump or single speed pump? If you have a VS pump, there is almost no reason to turn it off if you are running at a low rpm..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Last edited:
R,
You can run the system with the make-up valve off for day or so, but NO fresh water will ever get to the spa...
What I would do... is leave the system in the Pool mode.. do not go into the spa mode, so the Intake actuator will never move. Do this with the make-up valve open.. It does not matter if the spa drains down a little with the pump off.
I'd replace the Intake actuator and the 'guts' to the Make-up check valve.
While waiting for parts, I'd run the system for 24 hours and see if the wet spot returns or not.
Do you have a VS pump or single speed pump? If you have a VS pump, there is almost no reason to turn it off if you are running at a low rpm..
Thanks,
Jim
Jim,R,
You can run the system with the make-up valve off for day or so, but NO fresh water will ever get to the spa...
What I would do... is leave the system in the Pool mode.. do not go into the spa mode, so the Intake actuator will never move. Do this with the make-up valve open.. It does not matter if the spa drains down a little with the pump off.
I'd replace the Intake actuator and the 'guts' to the Make-up check valve.
While waiting for parts, I'd run the system for 24 hours and see if the wet spot returns or not.
Do you have a VS pump or single speed pump? If you have a VS pump, there is almost no reason to turn it off if you are running at a low rpm..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thank you so much for helping me step by step. I am not sure what the guts of check valve mean, is it the flapper inside? Also what is the best way to order these parts? I have 0 experience with the valve replacement but hoping this is something I can do on my own. For the actuator valve replacement, do I need app to calibrate it? Or is that manual. Reason I ask is, the aqua link 2.0 antenna is not getting listed in my WiFi list. Tried all methods given in the manual on Jandy’s website.
Also I have found one more issue, the salt cell related control board shows No flow and upon a bit of research it is the flow switch( wire is broken). I will post pic in a bit.
R,
Just take the old actuator off the top of the Jandy valve and install the new one.. No calibration or adjustments in your case.. Actuators come with a long cord that you will have to run back to your automation and plug in.. Just remove the old one and plug in the new one..
In your case, it would make sense to remove the old actuator and then follow the old cord back to the automation, just to make sure you remove the right one, and install the new one in the right port.
Actuators are held in place by 4 long screws... Make sure you NEVER put one of the long screw back in without the actuator installed.. If you do, it will ruin the valve body.
I have no spa and have never had to replace the flapper (guts) of one.. I do know if you buy a cheap one, it may or may not work. If I were buying one, I'd see what brand the old check valve is and then I'd buy whole new check valve and then just use the flapper. Just because I've seen too many not working here.. It may be overkill..
That said, I see that you have two check valves... One to the Spa pipe that is just left of your Return valve. And the one that is on the Make-up line just to the right of the Make-up valve.. Being as cheap as I am, I think I would try just swapping the flappers.. You really don't even need the check valve on the left side.. Worth a shot any way.
Also.. You might want to drain your spa to empty, when you open the check valves.. Unless you just like getting wet. Doing this may also drain down your filter or something else, so you may get wet no matter what..
I buy most of my pool equipment here...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Just take the old actuator off the top of the Jandy valve and install the new one.. No calibration or adjustments in your case.. Actuators come with a long cord that you will have to run back to your automation and plug in.. Just remove the old one and plug in the new one..
In your case, it would make sense to remove the old actuator and then follow the old cord back to the automation, just to make sure you remove the right one, and install the new one in the right port.
Actuators are held in place by 4 long screws... Make sure you NEVER put one of the long screw back in without the actuator installed.. If you do, it will ruin the valve body.
I have no spa and have never had to replace the flapper (guts) of one.. I do know if you buy a cheap one, it may or may not work. If I were buying one, I'd see what brand the old check valve is and then I'd buy whole new check valve and then just use the flapper. Just because I've seen too many not working here.. It may be overkill..
That said, I see that you have two check valves... One to the Spa pipe that is just left of your Return valve. And the one that is on the Make-up line just to the right of the Make-up valve.. Being as cheap as I am, I think I would try just swapping the flappers.. You really don't even need the check valve on the left side.. Worth a shot any way.
Also.. You might want to drain your spa to empty, when you open the check valves.. Unless you just like getting wet.
Doing this may also drain down your filter or something else, so you may get wet no matter what..I buy most of my pool equipment here...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Last edited:
R,
You can't really install an actuator wrong.. But, it can operate 'backwards' from what you want... There is a little 3-way switch on the actuator somewhere.. It is an "On - Off - On" switch. One on position moves the valve 180 degrees one way, and the other on position move the valve 180 degrees the other way.. You just set it so that when you are in the Pool mode, the Spa pipe is shut off.
Thanks,
Jim R.
You can't really install an actuator wrong.. But, it can operate 'backwards' from what you want... There is a little 3-way switch on the actuator somewhere.. It is an "On - Off - On" switch. One on position moves the valve 180 degrees one way, and the other on position move the valve 180 degrees the other way.. You just set it so that when you are in the Pool mode, the Spa pipe is shut off.
Thanks,
Jim R.
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