Draining pool level to break CYA lock

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a-castan

a-castan

Gold Supporter
Mar 9, 2019
28
Schertz, Texas
Pool Size
14500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
After searching around on some of the threads I'm still not sure I'm about to do this right -so please forgive my novice question: I need to drop my pool water level below the 2 skimmers. (Plan to set the MPV to waste and use pump.) There's a drain hole under each skimmer inside the pool. I think these are equalizers, but there's nothing in my docs to confirm, and in fact the generic MDX manual's various diagrams do not show these. (could they be anything else, though?). I don't plan to drop the water level below these anyway. So when I go to do this, should I bother covering the suction hole inside the skimmers and / or turn off the skimmer valves at the equipment? OR, if I want to just drain from the bottom drain, is it best to close both the valve and the suction plate?
Thanks in advance for any input/ advice you might have for this novice!!
 
It is exceedingly difficult to get a pool pump to drain below the skimmer. There is a very good chance that your pump will lose prime and run dry potentially damaging it. Most local hardware stores either carry cheap submersible pumps (~$50) to buy OR you can rent one from them for a few hours. Honestly I think buying one is a lot smarter because a submersible pump comes in very handy with a pool (and washing machines that clog up, or bathtubs that don’t drain, etc, etc). It’s like owning a shop vac … it’s a just one of those tools no homeowner should be without.
 
You can get a Wayne WaterBUG 0.16 HP sump pump for $98 at Home Depot or Amazon. They are great. Hook it up to a garden hose and plug it in. Boom.

I have two of them (bought them for other reasons before I had a pool). Together, they drained about 3” per hour from my approx 18,000 gal pool.
 
Thanks so much for your replies! Sounds like the sump is a worthwhile thing to have handy, especially since this is the third time in as many years the Pool service managed to get me into this situation. But the info I read said the equalizer is there to prevent the pump from losing prime. You mean I can't be lazy? Darn! Sounds like I'll need to learn how to prime the pump too....off to pool school!
 
a-castan said:
Thanks so much for your replies! Sounds like the sump is a worthwhile thing to have handy, especially since this is the third time in as many years the Pool service managed to get me into this situation. But the info I read said the equalizer is there to prevent the pump from losing prime. You mean I can't be lazy? Darn! Sounds like I'll need to learn how to prime the pump too....off to pool school!
Click to expand...

Most pool code nowadays discourages the inclusion of equalizer ports on skimmers as they can potentially be suction entrapment hazards.

Theoretically can you drain your pool by closing the little window on the diverter valve and having the pump pull on the main drain … sure. But all it takes is some minor air incursion into the suction line and you’ll lose prime faster than you’ll ever notice it. By that time your pump will be running dry and the wet end or motor will be toast. It’s simply not worth the risk when you can buy a $50 sub pump and have Amazon deliver it in the same day.
 
a-castan said:
third time in as many years the Pool service managed to get me into this situation.
Click to expand...
Hi! We can keep this from happening again!!! You know those white tables/pucks the pool service uses? Those are what keep adding the CYA to your pool. If you want you can add a SWG as seen here:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

This could also save you money down the road as well................you can cancel the pool service!!!
 
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+1. Keep your money and we'll show you how to have stunning results at a fraction of the costs. Whether its a SWG or bleach, we can have you stupid clear on the cheap.

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Also, i reccomend a $100-$125 pump. It will last for years and years and the 1/3 HP pump will save oodles of time everytime you use it over the 1/4HPs or smaller.
 
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@JoyfulNoise - My pool was built in 2007, so likely the code has changed. I did read something about a dangerous port, but not sure why someone would be swimming in a pool when you're draining it, which seems to me the only time it would have a strong pull. I'll have to go back and look again. The terms used get confusing. One diagram called it an anti vortex.
@kimkats - I have looked into a SWG, and I could replace my current inline feeder and install an Intellichlor IC20 (I think). But the cost of that is a bit on the high side and at the pool's age I have other things that will need replacing. Just had a new pump installed...ouch, mommy. Oh, and I absolutely cancelled the service, I figure I can't do any worse, and besides, now I've found Pool School and this forum of great people! And YES, those tabs are trouble, especially when all the techs do is fill up the feeder.
@Newdude I second that! SO glad I found this group!
 
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Oh you bet! And thanks for the support! I got so tired of the revolving door of new techs, I made sure I was out there when they were. Caught one fella about to load the feeder and asked if he'd testing the water yet. Ummmm. Then there were the little things - finding the Polaris running around in circles because the bag was on backwards....I was very patient... but then they informed me about their price increase and that pretty much did it.
So confession, I've taken pool samples into Leslie's for analysis, and they said there's nothing I can do until I get the CYA under control. It was 205!
The guy who installed my pump is coming tomorrow and we plan to go over a few things. I know he subscribes to liquid chlorine, so we'll be talking about that. I saw here on the forum a suggestion on the test kit, plan to ask him that as well. Which test kit do you recommend?
 
We recommend an FAS/DPD pool kit such as the TF100 or the Taylor K2006. Most kits the pool stores sell only measure chlorine up to 5 ppm, and for most pools that will be insufficient chlorine if you are keeping the CYA to FC ratio in balance. The FAS/DPD kits measure FC beyond 25ppm which will help you correctly dose the pool with high CYA levels and if you ever need to do a SLAM to get rid of algae. These kits are more expensive but should last 2 seasons if you don't need to SLAM. You can also easily order refills for any reagents you use more often without having to buy a whole new kit. You can check out the TF100 here: Test Kits
 
zea3 said:
We recommend an FAS/DPD pool kit such as the TF100 or the Taylor K2006. Most kits the pool stores sell only measure chlorine up to 5 ppm, and for most pools that will be insufficient chlorine if you are keeping the CYA to FC ratio in balance. The FAS/DPD kits measure FC beyond 25ppm which will help you correctly dose the pool with high CYA levels and if you ever need to do a SLAM to get rid of algae. These kits are more expensive but should last 2 seasons if you don't need to SLAM. You can also easily order refills for any reagents you use more often without having to buy a whole new kit. You can check out the TF100 here: Test Kits
Click to expand...
@zea3 Thanks! I'll check those out. I dont mind spending a bit more for accuracy.
 
If you like to be fancy they have a Pro version that comes with a speed stir and a very nice custom case! Seriously though a speed stir is a very nice addition to the basic FAS/DPD kit. It makes the calcium test so much easier!
 
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