Diving into SWG -- need layout advice

[dntboles]

I've decided I'm tired of lugging cases of chlorine, once I find it for sale, from the store to the van, then van into the garage then to the pool and doing my best to avoid more bleach spots on clothing while pouring it. I haven't had any crazy green algae, but it got cloudy a few times in less than a year.

I have an IC-40 with associated bits and pieces on order. I understand the basics of where it should go, but when I look at my current plumbing, there just isn't enough free pipe between things to cut and reconnect anything. It seems I'm going to have to cut way back to before my spa/pool valve and replumb that entire section. Does that seem right?

Here's what I think so far:
1. Cut bottom pipe coming out of heater, then 45 it to the left (back) sooner, to give me a little more depth to work with later.
2. 90 up to vertical
3. 90 toward front
4. Do I need a check valve before the IC-40? If so, I would add a flow meter/check valve here
5. IC-40
6. Pool/spa valve -- looks like I'll need an all new valve base
7. 90s off pool and spa sides
8. Booster pump somewhere in here, on pool side
9. 90 down
10. straight coupler down

Does that all make sense? Advice?

Is the height of the entire horizontal section critically important? In other words, when I cut the front vertical over the pool/waterfall valve I will need to either lower everything or add a coupler to lengthen the vertical, back to the same height before the 90, resulting in close fittings with not much room left if this ever had to be recut again. However, if I could cut just below the current 90, then put the coupler there, it would raise the horizontal sections a few inches.

Thanks for your help and thanks to @ajgraham for sharing some of the details on his adventures into SWG. He and @Jimrahbe have answered some other questions for me.

 

[ajw22]

I would do 3 cuts where the red lines are and remove the POOL/SPA valve and actuator and the CV and chlorinator.

Relocate the POOL/SPA valve and actuator to the front of the pad. Then you have a nice run to put in the SWG.

The SWG does not require a CV before the heater. But while you are in there you may want to install a heater bypass that would include a CV.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Jimrahbe]

David,

What Allen said above it exactly what I would do also...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[dntboles]

Got busy with other stuff for a while and coming back to this. If I only add SWG now (and defer heater bypass to later), do I need to have a check valve in there somewhere?

 

[ajw22]

Got busy with other stuff for a while and coming back to this. If I only add SWG now (and defer heater bypass to later), do I need to have a check valve in there somewhere?

No.

 

[PoolGate]

Check valves are used after the heater and before chlorine puck dispensers because with low or no flow the chlorine could backflow into the heater. With a SWG, it only produces chlorine with adequate flow so with no/low flow there is no chlorine to backup into the heater. Hence the check-valve isn't needed.

 

[dntboles]

Thank y'all! It seems the transformer I need is out of stock. I've got the other electronic components on order to go inside the EasyTouch box.

 

[dntboles]

Electrical components installed. Now I'm working on the layout. The SWCG part would have been simple, but adding the heater bypass complicates it a little. The dark grey straight part is the SWCG, with 12" on straight section before it. The disconnected T is for the booster pump.

 

[PoolGate]

For the record, I am not a fan of heater bypasses. It simply allows water to sit in the heater and go stagnant. I had water go stagnant in my umbrella sleeves once that are on my sundeck below the waterline from leaving the cap on. It stinks the whole pool area up. I see no reason for a heater bypass. With properly balanced water your heater should not have an issue with water running through it 100% of the time. They are designed for that.

 

[nobody291]

Now I'm working on the layout.

Sorry to interrupt, but what software did you use to make those illustrations?

 

[Newdude]

For the record, I am not a fan of heater bypasses

+1. My water went through my heater for 8+ years. Now, had I needed to remove the heater due to a problem, that may have changed my opinion, but I also would have been able to make my own straight pipe / backwoods bypass for the short term so probably not.

I wholeheartedly agree that they can greatly come in handy but weigh that out that most will never actually need it.

 

[dntboles]

Sketchup Pro, trial version. Any sane person would have just gone out with PVC and glue, would be done by now and drinking a beer. But I’m over analyzing it and this design is much better than the first 3.

 

[Newdude]

But I’m over analyzing it and this design is much better than the first 3.

First off....... then there is that. And well done.

Secondly, by my calculations, when the time comes you owe yourself 4 beers.

 

[dntboles]

Version 5. My original version had 8x 90-degree turns from the supply pipe to the SWCG. This has 3. I'm up to 5 beers earned.

I appreciate the inputs on pros and cons of a bypass. If I didn't already have it torn apart, I wouldn't just add a bypass right now. I may decide later to not use it, but I already have the plumbing cut up to install the SWCG so I'm going to install the bypass now. If I decide it's not a good idea, I could just not use the bypass.

Sketchup Pro trial version comments: It's not intuitive, but there are plenty of YouTube videos on how to use it. You can download components such as the heater, valves, PVC and filter. Some folks have the talent of being able to envision the best layout, in 3D, in their brains. I don't. I sketched the layout on paper, but just couldn't see the 3D concept to figure out what would fit where. By creating the 3D model, I am able to test the fit before going out to make the cuts. The bypass valve is in a tight spot. If needed, I can move the SWCG and pool/spa valve toward the pool side a little.

 

[Newdude]

it, but I already have the plumbing cut up to install the SWCG so I'm going to install the bypass now. If I decide it's not a good idea, I could just not use the bypass.

Absolutely!! If you ever need it, it will be worth it’s weight in gold. There is no argument whatsoever that it may come in handy.

Version 5. My original version had 8x 90-degree turns from the supply pipe to the SWCG. This has 3. I'm up to 5 beers earned

Just like CYA, we round up. So that’s a sixer. Always round up to the next 6.

 

[dntboles]

Well if I'm required to round up to 6, then here's version 6. As I went out and actually started dry fitting the pieces, the plumbing spirits smiled on me. Turns out I don't need the extra depth, so I could remove some 90s and simplify this even more. Then there was the thunderstorm warning, 2" of rain, tornado watch... it was a good time to come inside.

 

[dntboles]

Plumbing done. It's time to open the first beer. Next will be sometime after system pressure check, when I put in the SWCG and clean up the wiring. Third will be after the salt level is correct to start up the SWCG. Fourth after it's producing the appropriate level of chlorine. Fifth will be when I realize I normally would have been adding liquid chlorine but don't have to do so. Sixth will be when the first person notices the water feels different.

 

[DeanP66]

Very nice job!!

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Sixth will be when the first person notices the water feels different.

Seventh when someone says something about tasting the salt. Swap sixth/seventh beer situations as necessary.

That looks good. Very nicely done.

--Jeff

 

[dntboles]

I was concerned someone would turn on the heater while the heater bypass was activated. One option involved buying a valve actuator and installing it. Instead, I locked it out and tagged it.