Dirty Plaster around main pool drain

[AMH1]

Hello,
I have a 13000Gal saltwater pool which was replastered 2 years ago. I am noticing some light brown dirty areas around the main drain and not much in other areas (Please see Pictures) and it looks like plaster is a little dirty, however I can't seem to brush this stuff to clean it and seems like it's in the plaster. I check the chlorine, PH, CYA Weekly and always adjust it using the test strips from Leslies and have them also test the water. I have been reading about Copper and Iron and took some Vit C and rubbing the area and it did not make any difference. I do use Clorox xtra blue algeacide (which has some copper) in the summer time and shock the pool weekly. My reading from Leslies water test on Copper and Iron in the past 2.5 years is listed below.

I use a nylon brush to brush the pool, maybe I should get a steel brush....I don't know? I read about Proteam Metal magic and Jacks magic but have never used them. Any recommendation or advise on how I can get the pool plaster clean, is much appreciated, thanks!

Iron Level= 0ppm - 0ppm - 0ppm - 0ppm - 0ppm - 0.1ppm - 0.6ppm
Copper level =.02ppm - 0.2ppm - 0.4ppm - 0.2ppm - 0.7ppm -0.7ppm
Phosphates = 149ppb - 101 ppb - 173ppb - 329ppb - 145ppb -945 ppb

 

[TinFoilHat]

Oh, boy. You have been adding copper to your water and it may have now stained the plaster. The main drain is where the algaecide might have settled when you have applied it. We do not recommend test strips, pool store testing, algeacides, anything with 'blue' in the name, worrying about phosphates, etc. Have you not joined here to be one of the hundreds of thousands that follow the TFP methods? That would be using one of the recommended test kits exclusively, avoiding everything I already mentioned, using liquid chlorine and muriatic acid as your primary pool additives, following the CYA/FC relationship and some other things I probably forgot. Your pics though, could just be the look of older plaster. Here are links to follow to get to a clean, clear and sanitized pool.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath

 

[ajw22]

First, stop adding copper to your pool.

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Second, buy your own test kit - Taylor K-2006C or TFT Test Kits

A steel brush is not going to make a difference and neither will Metal Magic.

You are on the cliff of having a major copper staining problem.

 

[AMH1]

Oh Wow......Guys, thanks....... I will STOP adding algeacide! I thought The clorox stuff was to help get rid of Algae in the pool. So, Use Liquid Chlorine , Shock the pool Weekly and Muritic acid Only? I will purchase my own pool kit, but I always had a hard time using the test drop kits , Just thought it was confusing to calculate the drops to the numbers on the plastic refil and calculate the numbers....maybe I should educate myself on this!! Will the stains eventually go away once I stop uisng the Clorox Blue? Thanks for all the help!

 

[ajw22]

Algeacides do not get rid of algae you already have.

You need to follow our SLAM Process to get your water algae free.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

The stains will not go away without treatment. You need your own test kit to deal with them. Get it and give us your water chemistry and we can discuss next steps.

 

[mknauss]

You stated in a post last year you were getting a proper test kit, did you?

 

[AMH1]

I did guys.....I bought a test kit from Amazon and used it a few times, but I found it confusing so I stopped . Adding drops and using formulas to calcualte water gal and comparing the colors. Maybe I need to focus more and learn this and educate myself, or if there's an electronic version that you can just add drops and it would give you an accurate reading?

 

[mknauss]

There is no substitute for a drop based test kit for the residential pool owner. The kit you got is mostly color matching which is confusing and inaccurate.

Get a proper test kit. The TF100/Pro from Tftestkits.net (include the Smart Stir) or the TF2006C.

 

[AMH1]

Looking at the TF test kits, it looks like all these tests are drop based tests as well as color matching too. As you mentioned, maybe I need to first practice and learn the process of adding drops and calculating and learning this using what I have and then purchase the TF100 or another brand. A neighbor has the Taylor K2006 and is extremely happy with results and accuracy. I will STOP using the Clorox Blue Algaecide, Test strips and start using Chlorine shocks, Liquid chlorine and Muriatic acid and my Taylor drop test and once I learn the process, will purchase a more extensive test kits, Thanks again everyone for your help!

 

[mknauss]

The only color match in the TF test kits is for pH.

Be careful with the kit you have. Some of the reagents do not age well. If it was kept in a cool, dry place it might be OK. But be ware.

 

[AMH1]

Hello,
First, I want to thank everyone for all their educated advice and recommendation! I have learned so much and are still trying to educate myself on pool chemistry and ordered a (9 in-1 Test) Pool water drop test and Stopped using test Strips and the Clorox Algeacide. I tested the pool water myself and also took a sample to the Pool store to compare the numbers and record it as a base to continue keeping up the chemicals using these test. Here's the numbers I recorded from the pool store which are very close to the numbers I got from the test kit.

As for those stains and they are not real bad yet, I know they are not metal stains, as I did the "Vit C" test with no change. do I just keep my Chlorine levels Up and see if they will disappear over time or do you guys recommend a stain remover or some type of brush to scrub them?

Thanks again!

FC = 5.7
TC= 5.7
PH =7.9
Total Alk =114
Calcium H=378
Cyanuric Acid = 20
Iron= 0
Copper 0.1
Phosphate 460

 

[jsygrls]

You'll find TFP members use the following test kits.
Test Kits Compared

 

[TinFoilHat]

You need to post test results with one of the recommended test kits as we do not trust pool stores, test strips or anything less than a FAS/DPD chlorine test. When you get your kit then post up the results. Your CYA level will determine where your Free Chlorine should be FC/CYA Levels
Your PH might be a bit high but we aren't sure yet. Your stains might be algae which would need to be corrected with a SLAM. But to determine that, after you get your new kit, do an OCLT to test for algae.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process