I am in the process of upgrading my pool equipment and the electrician advised adding a subpanel by the pool equipment and then make direct runs to the various components. The pool is 15 years old and the original owner had 3 separate lines from an indoor breaker run directly to a junction box at the pool equipment. From there, various runs are made to the components. Is there value in replacing the junction box with another subpanel with duplicate breakers? It would clean up junction box wiring mess but it's $300 for the subpanel and $200 for the hard conduit.
Direct line from indoor panel to another subpanel?
- Thread starter sagosto
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,969
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I did that mainly because my main house panel outside was about full. Plus, I had a storage shed/workshop about 80 ft away that needed some electrical, so I ran a subpanel to the shed which is near the pool's equipment pad to supply power to the pool and workshop. Probably not a bad idea in your scenario so that you have quick and easy access to shut-off power if needed for maintenance or an emergency. A panel doesn't cost $300 though, so perhaps he's rolling-in his labor fee, or adding the costs of GFCI breakers as well? $200 for conduit? Hummm, seems kind of steep. Again, maybe he's including additional costs of labor, wiring, etc? $500 for the total job - labor and all?
I assume the subpanel would duplicate the indoor panel with 2 - 120V/20A and a 240/20A which is probably $100 right there. $200 for the hardline conduit seems high. Labor is $100 an hour which seems kinda cheap for North Jersey. He said 'couple of hours' which means 4 so I am thinking $900-$1000. I can run to the downstairs breaker for $500. I just don't really see value if I already have them coming off the breaker.
It might depending on what’s being used. I’m looking at this one and it’s sister panels. Even on a cheaper setup, the electrical supply will probably cost more than Amazon and the electrician gets a little markup too. https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T...ds=t104m+300w+sub+panel&qid=1619794828&sr=8-2
My guy was here the other day for a quote and said they just can’t get supplies. If they do they are costly. I’m considering doing everything up to the panel 80 ft away and the best I can do for #6 THMN is around 85 cents a foot (times 2 hots, a nuetral and a ground). The 1.25 inch conduit will be more expensive also and then the labor/rental for trenching. It’s gonna be costly either way.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
I had a 60 amp line run for mine, so 1 60 amp breaker from inside then broke out in the new box with its own breakers.. If it is already run and working I probably would not change it out unless you went with 1 breaker inside, new wire run and a new breaker box with breakers installed at the pump area...
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Yea -- That's what I am thinking too. It's been like this for 15+ years and worked fine. In a perfect world, I'd have a single run and deal with a sub panel. I'll ask him to just keep the junction box and skip the panel. My current setup runs the power to the heater and then to an outlet for the pump which he will change to a direct line to the subpanel (or junction box now).
