Cyclone - is this it?

[JohnA902]

Doing it myself this year. The 3hp model work ok? This provides the air and then I have to figure a way to connect it to the skimmer, right?

Air Supply Cyclone Liner Vac | PoolSupplyUnlimited.com

 

[LordNorth]

Hey John. Yes, that is correct. I just bought one myself. Had the worst time trying to figure out how to connect it to the system.

Turns out you have a couple of different options... In the skimmer, if you take out all of the baskets, the pipe at the bottom is threaded. You can get a 1 1/2 inch threaded barb (Looks like this -- https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-HB150-Polypropylene-Combination/dp/B00DE7YAZC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505509281&sr=8-2&keywords=1+1%2F2+inch+threaded+barb) that screws into that pipe. There is one just like it that comes with the cyclone. Your vacuum hose attaches one end to the cyclone, the other into the skimmer.

OR

You can remove the pump (I just found out mine isn't bolted to the pad) and go in that way. (This is a little more difficult, but if you are going to take the pump out for the winter anyway, it makes sense.)

OR

You can connect through where your waste line goes out. Remove the waste hose, and hook your pool hose in there. This will ONLY blow out the drain/skimmer lines though.

My plan for this year is to run the water down below the return jets, go in through the skimmer, blow the jets out and cap them.

Then go and hook to the waste line to blow the skimmer and the main drain.

Next year I'm going to remove the pump, but because this is only the second winter, the pool builder suggested leaving the pump connected to make sure that everything settles together to make sure it all fits together. Makes sense to me...

Hope this helps!

-Chris

 

[JohnA902]

Perfect. Thanks. I think I'll get the threaded attachment and go in the skimmer.

 

[Catanzaro]

The price has dropped since 3 years ago. This is a good deal. Can unclog central vacuum systems as well.

 

[JohnA902]

Stupid question: I'm seeing 1.5 inch threading being mentioned here and also suggested on the pool supply website when I click on the cyclone. I just measured my thread in the skimmer and it appears to be a 2 1/4 inch threading going down to a 2 inch hole. So I would just need a 2 1/4 inch threaded barb right? I'm not seeing that as readily available. Am I doing something stupid with the measurement. Are skimmers different or do most of us have 1.5 inch?

 

[Catanzaro]

The threaded adapter that goes to the skimmer is larger than the top that attaches to the 1.5" hose. E-mail them and they will be very helpful. I do not clear the lines from the skimmer, but with a modified cover. The adapters are also sold at local pool stores for a few dollars more in the event something goes wrong. Thanks!

 

[JohnA902]

Just placed the order for the Cyclone. I'll try to see if it can connect to my vacuum line directly into the skimmer. If not, off to Lowes or the Pool store I go for connections.

I'm still confused about the order of operations: whether it matters if I do the skimmers, main drain with an air lock, and then returns in that order. I'm trying to read through the forum and will start a new thread with any questions.

thanks!

 

[Catanzaro]

John:

Take a picture of the equipment pad (pump, filter, valves, etc.). Top, front, side, and side view. Then describe the skimmers, main drain, and returns. Once you receive your Cyclone, and have the fitting that threads in the skimmer port that is attached to the hose, then please write back. I will guide you on how to do this.

You will work on recirculate. You are blowing air from the skimmer through the filter and to each isolated area (That simple). The only valve that really needs to be shut off is the main drain with an "air lock'. Everything else is plugged with either a Gizmo or black rubber expandable plugs. Thanks!

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Pictures are worth 1,000 words!

 

[JohnA902]

Awesome! Thank you so much.

Attached are the pics of the valves and pump. Two skimmers. Shallow skimmer and deep skimmer. 3 returns. 1 is deep end return, 2 are shallow returns. 1 cleaner "return" located in the center. I also have 3 deck jets (fountains) located on the same return pipe (adjustable by valve) as the cleaner. I have the ability to use the main drain as a return as well.

 

[Catanzaro]

Can you describe the valves? I am seeing that plumbing is going to the pump from the suction side, then out of the pump to the filter. Then out of the filter to the heater and back out of the heater to plumbing that comes right back to the suction side. I know that out of the heater, the runs go back to the pool, but there is a bypass valve back to what appears to be the main drain and skimmer areas.

When you push air through the skimmer, you will have to redirect it towards the areas where you want to clear everything out. I can make the writing out on the main drain and skimmer # 1 and skimmer # 2, but not the return side. Again, you will have to isolate the suction side and return side when working with the Cyclone. As the Cyclone is pushing air, you will find that one of the returns or skimmers will go first. Just keep plugging each area and then when you get to the last one, shut off the Cyclone not to build up back pressure. Make sure the main drain is off while doing this. Then go back and open the main drain and blow out the area. Remember you are working from the skimmer, so after the main drain is "air locked", you can then go back and close the last skimmer.

See if there are drain plugs on the heater, filter, etc. Remove the sight glass if you have one and the pressure gauge. I do not see any MPV. I know some DE filters have them. This one appears not to have one.

 

[Chemnut]

Guys, its way easier to blow from the pump unions. This way you can just open or close the same valves you do when running waterfalls, skimmers, main drains, dedicated suction lines etc.

 

[Catanzaro]

Guys, its way easier to blow from the pump unions. This way you can just open or close the same valves you do when running waterfalls, skimmers, main drains, dedicated suction lines etc.

I am in agreement with this, but it is all based on comfort level. Some people do not wish to take the unions apart. The 1.5" hose on the Cyclone fits snug over the adapters. It is also possible to create something. Definitely worth a try at the unions. I have the modified cover.

 

[JohnA902]

I will get back to your answer once I get closer to "closing mode" - the weather has heated up a bit to the low 80s and I'm still swimming! I'm thinking mid/late November I'll be actually doing this. I didn't forget about this! Thanks!!

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Regarding the pump unions, I'm not really sure what you mean?

I had a company blow it out from the skimmer and it seemed simple. My only concern is doing that correctly.

 

[Catanzaro]

Regarding the pump unions, I'm not really sure what you mean?

I had a company blow it out from the skimmer and it seemed simple. My only concern is doing that correctly.

Unions is where plumbing can come apart. You have 2 unions at the heater. I see some at the pump and the filter. This may be too difficult to accomplish. Your best bet would be to work from the skimmer and push air back through to the filter and to the main drain/return lines. I do recall that somehow all your plumbing is somehow connected. It looks like the main drain is connected as well to the returns. You will have to isolate this during closing.

 

[JohnA902]

When you say connected, I think you are seeing the option for me to use the drain as either suction or a return. So yes, I will have to keep it set one way and not open it back up. I'll investigate this in much more detail once it is closer to closing time.

 

[Catanzaro]

I think you are seeing the option for me to use the drain as either suction or a return

Essentially, you could take water from the bottom of the deep end of the main drain and return it back without ever getting to the filter. Good way of heat retention (possibly). Never seen this one before, but interesting.

 

[JohnA902]

Essentially, you could take water from the bottom of the deep end of the main drain and return it back without ever getting to the filter. Good way of heat retention (possibly). Never seen this one before, but interesting.

No, it has to go through the filter. This is a heating option to shove hot water to the bottom of the deep end. Two valves surround the drain plumbing. The right one closed and the left one open and the filtered water goes through the heater and into the pool via the returns and the drain. When the left one is closed and the right one open, the water is sucked from the skimmers and the drain going through the filter and heater and back out only to the returns (and cleaner and fountains).

I believe if I have both of the valves surrounding the drain open I can create some type of unwanted circular flow where the filter sucks from the drain pipe and then pushes it right back out to same drain pipe creating a loop. Obviously I've never tried that. One is always closed.

 

[Catanzaro]

John:

If you understand the flow of water, then clearing the lines will not be difficult. Sounds like a lot of creativity (I think) to squeeze out an extra degree or two from the pool water. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[JohnA902]

Quick question that I think I know the answer to:

Should I open the filter housing and remove the filter prior to the air blow out? I assume I should do the air blow out on the empty reassembled filter housing connected to all of the pipes.

 

[Catanzaro]

Entirely up to you. I spoke with a friend that has a DE and he said that they clear the lines without removing anything. Thanks!