Hi all. I just purchased a home with a four-year-old inground pebble pool (18k gallons). The original CYA was 134. After purchasing a sump pump and draining/refilling some water, I’m down to 78. Should I drain more, or can I live with this?
CYA Assistance
- Thread starter CJ_Dangle
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
How are you testing your water chemistry?
See Recommended Levels
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
How are you testing your water chemistry?
See Recommended Levels
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Oly
Gold Supporter
Your 78ppm tested CYA is a clue that your testing method may not be as accurate as you assume. Be careful going forward with a plan until you can trust your water test results.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
We do not provide guidance based on pool store tests. You need your own proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols. See Test Kits Compared
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,238
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The CYA test is the most likely that pool stores get wrong. As @mknauss stated, we don't provide guidance based on pool store testing. Test Kits Compared
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,205
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
CJ,
Welcome to TFP! We offer expert advice on a methodology for taking care of your pool with dirt cheap generic chemicals. It's based on sound science only and is practiced by thousands of pool owners. Very important to you is that we also sell nothing. So our pool advice is never conflicted. Over the years we've found "free" pool store tests are usually worth what you pay for them. We instead have found two different test kits you can buy and run yourself that are very reliable and work great. Problem with pool store tests is employees are often not trained, equipment is often not maintained and this is required for good results. So if the results you get are bad the advice can't be any better than the test results.
I recommend you follow Marty's advice and get a test kit. I got the same one over 6 years ago and it's going strong still (with a couple reagent refills when they're on sale). Also, please fill in your signature. This allows our experts to be more efficient with their volunteer time. Here's how to do it.
Great to have you and good luck with your pool!
Chris
Welcome to TFP! We offer expert advice on a methodology for taking care of your pool with dirt cheap generic chemicals. It's based on sound science only and is practiced by thousands of pool owners. Very important to you is that we also sell nothing. So our pool advice is never conflicted. Over the years we've found "free" pool store tests are usually worth what you pay for them. We instead have found two different test kits you can buy and run yourself that are very reliable and work great. Problem with pool store tests is employees are often not trained, equipment is often not maintained and this is required for good results. So if the results you get are bad the advice can't be any better than the test results.
I recommend you follow Marty's advice and get a test kit. I got the same one over 6 years ago and it's going strong still (with a couple reagent refills when they're on sale). Also, please fill in your signature. This allows our experts to be more efficient with their volunteer time. Here's how to do it.
Great to have you and good luck with your pool!
Chris
Hi fellow Houstonian. There are many members on the forum from the Greater Houston area.
Most of us only use 2 chemicals - chlorine and muriatic acid which can be purchased at Home Depot or WalMart. Also can purchase from Leslie's and Pinch A Penny but don't buy any of their other remedies such as Yellow Out or Green whatever.
TFP is a methodology that is different from traditional pool store formats. Also, we do not support using 3" Chlorine pucks because they will add back the CYA you just reduced by partial draining your pool. If you commit to the TFP way to obtain a clear and properly sanitized pool then you need to do your own testing and read up on the process as others have indicated. It is quite easy and you will be very happy managing your own pool and knowing it is properly sanitized for your family. Plus, if you have an issue, this forum is ready to help.
Create Your Signature to help us understand what your current setup is for your pool and equipment
@CJ_Dangle As a follow up, if you plan to use the TFP methodology, then your CYA of 78 (if Leslie's is possibly close) would be classified as 80 (use values rounded up to the next 10). You will see why when you use your own test kit and test for CYA.
This is just a tad high for a chlorine pool. Not sure if you have viewed the FC/CYA Levels which guides everyone on where your free chlorine (FC) should be based on your CYA. As noted, the higher the CYA, the higher you need to maintain FC levels to effective.
Couple of ideas - you can wait to see if there are any major thunderstorms coming through in next month or 2 - drain some of your pool prior to that and let rain water fill as much as it can and then top off with your own tap water. Or just drain as you did before and refill. It is not urgent to do it now but suggest it all be done prior to the spring so definitely before April so your plaster does not get too dried out during the refill.
Let us know when you do your first test as that can be a little challenging the first time to ensure you got the process. After several tests you be a real pro. BTW - if you do purchase the TF-100 kit recommended earlier, then also purchase the XL option which is more reagents for performing the chlorine test and it may be good to get the speed stirrer at the same time as I think they give it at a discount on your initial purchase of the TF-100 test kit. That is very helpful to have consistency in your testing.
This is just a tad high for a chlorine pool. Not sure if you have viewed the FC/CYA Levels which guides everyone on where your free chlorine (FC) should be based on your CYA. As noted, the higher the CYA, the higher you need to maintain FC levels to effective.
Couple of ideas - you can wait to see if there are any major thunderstorms coming through in next month or 2 - drain some of your pool prior to that and let rain water fill as much as it can and then top off with your own tap water. Or just drain as you did before and refill. It is not urgent to do it now but suggest it all be done prior to the spring so definitely before April so your plaster does not get too dried out during the refill.
Let us know when you do your first test as that can be a little challenging the first time to ensure you got the process. After several tests you be a real pro. BTW - if you do purchase the TF-100 kit recommended earlier, then also purchase the XL option which is more reagents for performing the chlorine test and it may be good to get the speed stirrer at the same time as I think they give it at a discount on your initial purchase of the TF-100 test kit. That is very helpful to have consistency in your testing.
Thank you guys! I ordered the Taylor kit as recommended. It should arrive today, and I will take my first test and post the numbers.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,205
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
That's great! Don't be intimidated by the CYA test, it's really easy once you get the hang of it and your first few results are way better than you may think. This may not make sense until you get the kit but here's some great advice I got that made it much easier:
Chris
- Do the test outside with your back to the sun
- Don't stare down at the dot in the tube look away then at the dot, add mixture look again... repeat till the dot disappears
- There are videos online for the test procedures
Chris
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.
Thanks! Using this technique, I’m getting a reading of 110 CYA. I’ve dropped my sump pump in to do some more drain/fill.
Welcome - another fellow Houstonian here. I think you're on the path to taking good control of your pool.
How are you adding chlorine to your pool? I'm going to guess with tablets. If so, keep in mind that tablets will continue to raise your CYA, which will eventually render the chlorine ineffective.
Many here view tablets as the devil, which I can understand, but I think they're "okay" as long as you manage your CYA and adjust your target chlorine levels based on your CYA level. If you stay with tablets, just be aware that you'll have to periodically drain your water to get rid of CYA, like you're doing now.
The preferred methods on these forums are liquid chlorine or a salt water chlorine generator. The very short description is that LC requires daily addition but does not increase CYA. SWCG automatically creates chlorine, does not add CYA, but is an extra piece of equipment that must be purchased and maintained. Overall, the SWCG is the most convenient of all the chlorine management methods, IMO, especially if you need to leave for vacation.
Good luck and keep coming back with your test results. Folks here will give you excellent guidance.
How are you adding chlorine to your pool? I'm going to guess with tablets. If so, keep in mind that tablets will continue to raise your CYA, which will eventually render the chlorine ineffective.
Many here view tablets as the devil, which I can understand, but I think they're "okay" as long as you manage your CYA and adjust your target chlorine levels based on your CYA level. If you stay with tablets, just be aware that you'll have to periodically drain your water to get rid of CYA, like you're doing now.
The preferred methods on these forums are liquid chlorine or a salt water chlorine generator. The very short description is that LC requires daily addition but does not increase CYA. SWCG automatically creates chlorine, does not add CYA, but is an extra piece of equipment that must be purchased and maintained. Overall, the SWCG is the most convenient of all the chlorine management methods, IMO, especially if you need to leave for vacation.
Good luck and keep coming back with your test results. Folks here will give you excellent guidance.
Thank you much. The previous owner was using tablets, but based on my experience I’d like to move away from that if at all possible. I’ve removed all tablets for now.
Rattus Suffocatus
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2019
- 1,657
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
Yeah, get it down to 50-60 if you can, a little higher if you are using a SWCG. It sounds like you got this, honestly. You could probably manage it at 80 but having the extra headway is probably worth the extra effort.
Go buy some LC. I pour about 8oz per day on average in my pool during the winter months. Sometimes more if we have real sunny days like last couple of days. I test about every 3rd or 4th day. Obviously that will change when we transition to Springtime.
keep your pucks because if you travel for a couple days or more you can use those and also dose extra LC before you depart. I have found there is little impact on CYA when you have short-term use of pucks. Plus the rains do help to dilute it as well.
Thank you for the advice!
Upon my 2 ft drain and fill, I’m reading a CYA of 85. Should I drain more?
Upon my 2 ft drain and fill, I’m reading a CYA of 85. Should I drain more?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Round up to 90 ppm CYA.
You will need to maintain the FC based on FC/CYA Levels. If you are diligent about using rainfall to continue to lower your CYA, you can probably stop. But it would be better to drain another 1/3to 1/2 of the pool volume and refill.
You will need to maintain the FC based on FC/CYA Levels. If you are diligent about using rainfall to continue to lower your CYA, you can probably stop. But it would be better to drain another 1/3to 1/2 of the pool volume and refill.
