CYA and Jumbo tabs

Ronbo

Member
Feb 17, 2020
16
AZ
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello all. New pool owner and member here. Fantastic site. Plan on doing the maintenance myself. I have the time and inclination. The builder left me with a basic kit that tests PH and Chlorine. I've had the water tested weekly by the local pool supply company in addition to the daily testing I perform. I do plan on getting the Taylor K2006 soon and no I don't fully trust the tests the supply company has done. Two questions for now if I may beg your indulgence. Right now I am using muriatic acid for ph (which seems to keep wanting to rise) and for chlorine I have the Jumbo Tabs (Trichloro-s-triazetrione) 99% and Chlor Brite for shocking if needed. Pool temp has been 62-64 degrees. My chlorine is at 3 and ph 7.8 1) Do the Jumbo-Tabs raise CYA levels? I just brought a boat load of this stuff to stock up for the summer, along with the Chlor Brite and acid. 2) I stumbled on the BBB method of maintaining pools, which lead me to this forum. Can I switch from the Tabs/Chlor-brite to liquid chlorine? I asked the pool supply person and of course his answer was an emphatic NO.
 
Welcome to the forum!
Read How to Chlorinate Your Pool - Trouble Free Pool. You will see that the use of the 'jumbo tabs' is not sustainable. For every 10 ppm FC added to your pool the tablets add 6 ppm CYA.
You will need to use liquid chlorine. Find a reasonably priced source for that. It will need to be added DAILY. Eventually you will wish to look into a SaltWater Chlorine Generator. It will make the chlorine you need to keep your pool clean and sanitary.
When you order your test kit, be sure you get the K2006C. The C matters. A better value is the TF100.
Watch some of our videos too. See
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
I used a tablet feeder for years but kept it on low setting and added liquid when needed. The feeder is nice if you go out of town.
Also if you by powder shock get the calcium one, it will raise calcium but never seem to jump mine out of range. I didn’t know that until they told me here, couldn’t understand why my CYA was over 100 ?
I am converting to a salt water generator this year ;)
 
Are your tablets by Clorox? Do they say “blue” anywhere on the label? If so they contain copper which will accumulate in your water and stain your pool eventually.
 
Are your tablets by Clorox? Do they say “blue” anywhere on the label? If so they contain copper which will accumulate in your water and stain your pool eventually.
The tablets are the Leslies Jumbo Tabs
 
The tablets are the Leslies Jumbo Tabs

Good. Only problem with using those tablets will be a rising CYA level.

Every tablet you use will raise your FC by 3.7, CYA by 2.2, lower pH by 0.2, and raise salt by 3 ppm.

You need to stop using the tablets when your CYA is 30-40 and switch to liquid chlorine unless you want to be draining water from your pool periodically. Every 15 - 20 tablets of use you would need to exchange your water with fresh water to maintain CYA of 30-40.
 
I used a tablet feeder for years but kept it on low setting and added liquid when needed. The feeder is nice if you go out of town.
Also if you by powder shock get the calcium one, it will raise calcium but never seem to jump mine out of range. I didn’t know that until they told me here, couldn’t understand why my CYA was over 100 ?
I am converting to a salt water generator this year ;)
I too would like to convert to a salt generator. From what I've read the water feels much better. Is this a result of the salt? Can I add salt to improve the "feel" of my conventional pool? My in-laws had a SWG installed with their pool some 18 years ago and said it went bad after a few months. They've been conventional ever since. As an aside, my skin feels HORRIBLE when I use their pool. He uses the tabs and shock exclusively, and only tests pH and CL.

Why is high CYA bad? CYA stabilizes the CL, correct? My first test at the pool store said I had 0 CYA and they sold me some to add. My latest test said 50. For those that have a SWG generator, how long can the cell be expected to live?
 
I am about to find out :)
I just got tired of buying tablets and having to watch it all the time..Never fails at least once a year I get busy and when I look its dull and green and I spend a lot of money and time recovering :( I just want it to stay nice looking..

My understanding is CYA keeps the chlorine from being used up by the sun..But if you add too much is keeps the chlorine from being effective at killing algae..
Guys and Gals here can explain a lot better then me
 
Ron, I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and



In simple terms CYA buffers chlorine. Up to a point that is good. As the CYA level increase the chlorine level needs to increase to maintain sufficient active chlorine. At a high enough CYA level you will be unable to add enough chlorine and you will develop algae problems. That situation is sometimes called “chlorine lock” because all your chlorine is bound to the CYA.

 
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Ron, I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and



In simple terms CYA buffers chlorine. Up to a point that is good. As the CYA level increase the chlorine level needs to increase to maintain sufficient active chlorine. At a high enough CYA level yYou will be unable to add enough chlorine and you will develop algae problems. That situation is sometimes called “chlorine lock” because all your chlorine is bound to the CYA.

I've read it AJ, watched the video's too, but it's still a little murky (pun intended).
 
Ron, what water test kit do you use?
I've got the Pentair kit that came with the pool, tests for PH and CL. Going to get the Taylor 2006 or similar.
Welcome to the forum!
Read How to Chlorinate Your Pool - Trouble Free Pool. You will see that the use of the 'jumbo tabs' is not sustainable. For every 10 ppm FC added to your pool the tablets add 6 ppm CYA.
You will need to use liquid chlorine. Find a reasonably priced source for that. It will need to be added DAILY. Eventually you will wish to look into a SaltWater Chlorine Generator. It will make the chlorine you need to keep your pool clean and sanitary.
When you order your test kit, be sure you get the K2006C. The C matters. A better value is the TF100.
Watch some of our videos too. See
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
How/why is the TF100 better value-wise? I see it costs a bit more on Amazon than the Taylor
 
Order the TF-100 at Test Kits

TF-100 is the best value and gives you the most reagents you commonly use. With the other test kits you will be ordering more reagents sooner. Read...


 
I'm reading all the articles in the library as we speak, er, type. Will adding salt to my pool make it "feel" better?
 
Begging pardon in advance if I keep going over the same questions. I'm going to switch from the the Jumbo Tabs and Chlor-Brite to liquid chlorine and obtain a better test kit. The main reason for going away from the tabs is they raise CYA to a level where chlorine in no longer effective, correct? What, if any, is an acceptable level of CYA? Some of it is needed to keep CL from burning off, correct? For those who have a SWG, which I plan on getting, is corrosion an issue? I'm thinking of splash on the concrete decking and metal hardware i.e. lights and hand rails. How do I calculate the amount of CL is add?
 
The main reason for going away from the tabs is they raise CYA to a level where chlorine in no longer effective, correct? What, if any, is an acceptable level of CYA?
Correct. And the amount of CYA you need varies slightly on time of year and intensity of the sun. Minimum is 30, and in Aug you might like 50-60 to preserve FC. Use our PoolMath tool (or new APP) to help you with dosage amounts.

If/when you convert to SWG, salt is not an issue. The amount of salt in a pool, about 3,400 ppm on average I'd say depending on the manufacture, is relatively low in the grand scheme of things. Others will reply as well I'm sure. Have a great day Ron. :swim:

 
To answer your concern, corrosion is not a problem anymore then the chlorine that you have now. To start on the right foot you need proper testing kit such as the TF-100 and the K1766 salinity test kit to dial in your numbers. Before you go any further stop all tabs since you may be way over the top on the CYA. Get your kits and put the numbers up here so we can take you to the next step.
 

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