Costco Bestway plumbing conversion

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Rocky_Bullwinkle

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May 29, 2021
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CA
Hello. Feel like I'm in a daze looking through posts and youtube for help with converting my pool over to Hayward equipment. Hoping some kind soul would be willing to answer a few questions I have about installation. First, I have a Costco Bestway 9x18 oval. It came with a subpar pump and tubing. I have purchased this:

Hayward Pro Series Sand Filter System, 18 in Filter with 1 HP Matrix Pump and
www.homedepot.com

HAYWARD Above Ground Standard Thru-Wall Skimmer HPPSP1091LX - The Home Depot

Hayward Above Ground Standard Thru-Wall Skimmer will keep your pool clean and free of leaves, debris, and other organic materials. It offers large skimmer basket, snap-in and removable weir and quick disconnect pipe connection. ABS skimmer is UV protected that ensures long-lasting performance...
www.homedepot.com

After watching youtube, I plan on replacing the existing 1 1/4" holes in the pool with 1 1/2. I'm considering purchasing two of these:

Amazon.com: River Country On/Off Plunger Valve with Strainer for Easy Set, Frame Set & Ultra Frame Pools Intex, Bestway, Coleman Compatible: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: River Country On/Off Plunger Valve with Strainer for Easy Set, Frame Set & Ultra Frame Pools Intex, Bestway, Coleman Compatible: Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

So here are the questions that I haven't found answers to so far. First, although the Hayward comes with some fixed length 1 1/2" tubing, I will need something much longer. I was originally going to use sched 40, but am wondering if I should use tubing and if so, what kind? Second question. When watching the video install of the Hayward skimmer, the installers keep referencing a Game adapter 40mm to 1.5" conversion. If I'm going from a Hayward skimmer to a Hayward pump, would I still need those? This Hayward pump I bought looks like it comes with threaded tubing adapters. Last question for this post. This Bestway pool has two outlets that join to go back to the filter. One for the skimmer and one for normal flow and one for normal flow. As I mentioned in the parts above, I was thinking about getting those River Country plunger valves. This would work on the normal flow outlet back to the filter but for the skimmer, what do you recommend? It doesn't appear to come with any way to turn off the flow built into the skimmer. Should I be using a ball valve in-line. Just a maintenance concern I think.

Thank you for taking a look and if anyone has any suggestions or videos, I could use all the help I can find. This is my first pool. Thanks.
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! I would go with schedule 40 and unions over hoses any day. If you are going to all the trouble of adding a skimmer then you should use a ball valve union. It is much more versitile. Put one on the skimmer line and one on the return line and you won't have any trouble shutting off water when needed.
 
Thank you for that advice. I decided to cancel the order for those River Country valves and am going with standard 1 1/2" returns and sched 40. A couple of more questions so I can order the parts. For the 1hp motor, should I go with two of the 3/4" returns or just one? Since I am using the Hayward skimmer and another dedicated 1 1/2 outlet there will be plenty of flow back to the pump. I'm thinking that I should use two 1 1/2 returns with the 3/4" directional flow inlet fitting.

To be clear about what's already in place, I have threee 1 1/4" holes in the pool. Two of them were for the outlet (1 bestway skimmer & 1 strainer outlet) and then one 3/4" return. My plan is to change all of this. Instead of having the bestway skimmer and strainer outlets (1 1/4"), I'm going to widen them to 1 1/2", make one of them a strainer outlet and use the other as a return. Since I am cutting in the Hayward skimmer, that along with the strainer outlet should be enough flow back to the pump and that will give me two 1 1/2" returns from the pump back to the pool. Clear as mud? Please let me know if it's sound.
 
I think you only need that adapter if still using intex hose.
Myself I would do it this way. Worked fine for me for 30 years.
Just use flexible PVC. Easier, less joints, can expand a little so more freeze proof.

Amazon.com : Sealproof 1.5" Dia Flexible PVC Pipe, Swimming Pool and Spa Hose Tubing, Schedule 40, Pump Filtration, Made in USA, 1-1/2-Inch, 25 FT, White : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : Sealproof 1.5" Dia Flexible PVC Pipe, Swimming Pool and Spa Hose Tubing, Schedule 40, Pump Filtration, Made in USA, 1-1/2-Inch, 25 FT, White : Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com
Also pretty sure they still sell this by the foot at Home Depot. Is made to be glued to PVC fittings. But myself. I just use it with barb fittings and stainless hose clamps. Sometimes can be a tight fit to get on / off a barb fitting. So I just heat it up a little with a heat gun if needed.

Should have the barb fittings also at home depot. But can get any type below link.

Plastic Barbed Insert Fittings for Polyethylene Pipe

Buy the barbed plastic insert fittings that you require for your project from our large selection of styles and sizes, designed to fit black polyethylene pipe
www.plumbingsupply.com www.plumbingsupply.com

Then if ever need to cap off hayward outlets. Use below

Amazon.com: XtremepowerUS 1.5"" Pool Plug Cap, Swimming Pool Return Line Winter Plug w/O-Ring, White & Black (S75145) : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com: XtremepowerUS 1.5"" Pool Plug Cap, Swimming Pool Return Line Winter Plug w/O-Ring, White & Black (S75145) : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com

To block off skimmer . Install this inside skimmer under the basket.

Amazon.com: Aquatix Pro Pool Winterizing Plug Premium 1.5" to 2" Swimming Pool Winter Expansion Plugs with SS Screw, Stainless Steel Bolts, Heavy Duty Rubber, Protect Your Equipment Today!: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: Aquatix Pro Pool Winterizing Plug Premium 1.5" to 2" Swimming Pool Winter Expansion Plugs with SS Screw, Stainless Steel Bolts, Heavy Duty Rubber, Protect Your Equipment Today!: Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

For winter if you get freezing. You can either remove one end of hoses that go to pump and skimmer. To get the water out of the hose.
Or install a Tee fitting a plug at the low point. Just remove plug to drain hose.
I still like to remember less fittings and joints the better for leaks.

And of course you are free to use valves if think will be easier for you. Dont buy anything special made. They are cheap below.

PVC Sch40 Ball Valves, 3-Way Valves, Glue or Threaded

Select the PVC ball valve for your needs, 3-way valves, serviceable true union valves, and combination ball and check valves, slip, threaded or compression
www.plumbingsupply.com www.plumbingsupply.com
 
Great information. Thank you. I was able to cancel those River Country plunger valves I noted above and instead am going with these:

Amazon.com: Hayward SP1023 1-1/2-Inch FIP Inlet Return Fitting with Locknut and Gasket: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: Hayward SP1023 1-1/2-Inch FIP Inlet Return Fitting with Locknut and Gasket: Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

I will of course have to widen the existing holes but it's the only way to get everything to 1 1/2" For the two returns I was going to screw two of these into the inlet returns above:

Amazon.com: Hayward SP1419D White 3/4-Inch Opening Hydrostream Directional Flow Inlet Fitting with 1-1/2-Inch MIP Thread: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: Hayward SP1419D White 3/4-Inch Opening Hydrostream Directional Flow Inlet Fitting with 1-1/2-Inch MIP Thread: Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

As far as what pipe to use, I totally agree with @rayh78. Trying to use that Intex type tubing would be a nightmare and there's no real reason to use it. On the other hand, that spaflex you linked to is super expensive. At least $3 a foot and the 1 1/2 may be even more than that. Trying to decide what to come off the inlets with. I thought Maybe just an 1 1/2 male adapter screwed in and then an 1 1/2 90 degree and then use ball valves to fine-tune the flow.

This info has really been a great help so far. Those links will help me get the stuff I need ordered or at least compare it to HD or Lowes prices. Btw, I'm in SoCal so no worries on freezing. In fact, I'm looking to make a DIY fountain to cool the water down during the dog days of summer.

Edit: Several hours after this post, I came across a youtube video of a guy who warns against using sched 40 because the movement of the pool during use can cause stress to the hard plumbing, particularly at the pump and can cause leaks. I'm going to reconsider the advice on using tubing as opposed to hard pipe. Just thought I would save the next guy some trouble.
 
Last edited:
Rocky_Bullwinkle said:
Thank you for that advice. I decided to cancel the order for those River Country valves and am going with standard 1 1/2" returns and sched 40. A couple of more questions so I can order the parts. For the 1hp motor, should I go with two of the 3/4" returns or just one? Since I am using the Hayward skimmer and another dedicated 1 1/2 outlet there will be plenty of flow back to the pump. I'm thinking that I should use two 1 1/2 returns with the 3/4" directional flow inlet fitting.

To be clear about what's already in place, I have threee 1 1/4" holes in the pool. Two of them were for the outlet (1 bestway skimmer & 1 strainer outlet) and then one 3/4" return. My plan is to change all of this. Instead of having the bestway skimmer and strainer outlets (1 1/4"), I'm going to widen them to 1 1/2", make one of them a strainer outlet and use the other as a return. Since I am cutting in the Hayward skimmer, that along with the strainer outlet should be enough flow back to the pump and that will give me two 1 1/2" returns from the pump back to the pool. Clear as mud? Please let me know if it's sound.
Click to expand...
Sure, you can do that. So essentially you are adding a skimmer, which will equal 4 total openings, correct? The skimmer and one hole, cut to 1.5”, will be your two intakes. The other two holes will be cut to 1.5” to give you two returns.

Do I have that right? Or were you planning to not widen the current return?
 

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My wife is often smarter than me in basic logic so I will pose my question here. She does not believe that I will need two 1 1/2” pool returns for a 1hp pump. If this is true and I only need 1 1/2” return. I could use the other for some other purpose.ie Hose vacuum or fountain. I would obviously need to decide on its use before I start plumbing though. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
 
You certainly don’t need two returns. And you don’t actually have to decide now either. You could always plug it for now, and decide later.
 
kellyfair said:
You certainly don’t need two returns. And you don’t actually have to decide now either. You could always plug it for now, and decide later.
Click to expand...
Let me add more detail to make my argument. On the inside of the pool inlets, I bought both 3/4” and 1” directional flow adapters. They screw into the 1 1/2” inlet port and would reduce the flow down BUT would also increase pressure and water flow. I thought that by maybe having two, it would create more water movement. Is this overkill?
 
Rocky_Bullwinkle said:
Let me add more detail to make my argument. On the inside of the pool inlets, I bought both 3/4” and 1” directional flow adapters. They screw into the 1 1/2” inlet port and would reduce the flow down BUT would also increase pressure and water flow. I thought that by maybe having two, it would create more water movement. Is this overkill?
Click to expand...
Only one way to know… try it!

I’m curious to know why you chose the smaller flow adapters though. With a 1 ph pump, I think you will find you are getting plenty of circulation even with a standard return eyeball. I have a .75 hp pump and get a good current in my pool.
 
kellyfair said:
Only one way to know… try it!

I’m curious to know why you chose the smaller flow adapters though. With a 1 ph pump, I think you will find you are getting plenty of circulation even with a standard return eyeball. I have a .75 hp pump and get a good current in my pool.
Click to expand...
Here is the reason for the smaller eyeball. I’m using an 1 1/2” line that splits into two.
I’m guessing that Rear bass I will get to it the pressure of using two of the 1” eyeballs. I think anything larger would reduce pressure. Honestly, I looked for some reference using a 1 hp pump and what inlets should be used but found nothing so I am kind of winging it.
 
Rocky_Bullwinkle said:
Here is the reason for the smaller eyeball. I’m using an 1 1/2” line that splits into two.
I’m guessing that Rear bass I will get to it the pressure of using two of the 1” eyeballs. I think anything larger would reduce pressure. Honestly, I looked for some reference using a 1 hp pump and what inlets should be used but found nothing so I am kind of winging it.
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks a lot Siri! Take two....

Here is the rationale behind the smaller eyeballs. I’m using an 1 1/2” line that splits into two, 1 1/2” lines. Seems logical that reducing down to 1” eyeballs will create better flow and pressure into the pool. Honestly, I looked for some reference using a 1 hp pump and what inlets should be used but found nothing so I am kind of winging it here.
 
Lol, you lost me at rear bass, so I’m glad you took a second stab at it!

I think you are going to have plenty of movement.
 
I am running a 1hp Hayward with an 18" sand filter. All plumbed with 1.5" PVC. Our return's eyeball (only have 1) is 1". I also run a fountain. With both running we get more than enough flow and I can feel the return stream 2 to 3 feet from the pool wall. The filter runs at between 16-18lbs
 
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