Hello all, I finally have our pool refurbished, and now I am dealing with levels. I am hoping someone can educate me. I understand that the ph and alkilinity are connected, and I think I understand that relationship. I have had water in the pool for approximately 3 weeks now with the pump and chlorinator almost constantly on. I take water samples into be tested once a week, (because I don't have any test apparatus...yet). Each time, the ph is slightly high, but the Alkilinity is very high. I put 1/2 gallon of Muriatic acid in the deep end of the pool, in front of the return in the evening the first 2 times I had it tested. That was based on the recommendation at the pool shop. This last time, it had been about 10 days since i last added acid, and the alkilinity level was 280. I was told to either add 2 cups of acid every couple of hours, or add 1/2 gallon that evening, and the other 1/2 gallon in the morning. Is there some reason that it won't come down? Am I doing something incorrect? I have added water twice, maybe 1" or so in level. Any advice is appreciated.
consistently high alkilinity
- Thread starter raidermanz
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,767
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C.
You have a vinyl pool. The TA is of no great concern unless your CH is high and you have a scaling issue.
Keep your pH in the 7's. Do not use pool store testing. It is inaccurate.
I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C.
You have a vinyl pool. The TA is of no great concern unless your CH is high and you have a scaling issue.
Keep your pH in the 7's. Do not use pool store testing. It is inaccurate.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
And you have nailed the problem you are having... the problem is not the PH or the TA.. it is the pool store and your ability not to test your water...
grab a great test kit Test Kits Compared so you cna easily do this... Once your PH hits 7.8 or 8 your drop it using PoolMath to 7.2, that will also drop your TA.. the more you do it the faster your TA will go down..
grab a great test kit Test Kits Compared so you cna easily do this... Once your PH hits 7.8 or 8 your drop it using PoolMath to 7.2, that will also drop your TA.. the more you do it the faster your TA will go down..
Thanks guys!!! Very much appreciated! I just ordered a test kit. I'm sure I will post again when I fail to understand how to use it....lol.
Oly
Gold Supporter
Don't sell yourself short, the testing is not complicated. The instructions are straight forward and the end points (color change) for many of the tests are obvious. Take notes on your procedures and results to avoid mistakes and evaluate the results.
Sample your water below 18" after the pump has been running for 30 mins or more. I would suggest you use the lowest amount of pool water in the tests for FC, TA, CH (read instructions) to get you started. This will save your reagents and is precise enough now. Also don't shake the pH test after adding the drops, simply roll the capped tube a couple time before matching the color. The CYA test is unique (turbidity test) but dive right in and read up on the tips for the testing.
Have fun with it and take charge of your pool.
Sample your water below 18" after the pump has been running for 30 mins or more. I would suggest you use the lowest amount of pool water in the tests for FC, TA, CH (read instructions) to get you started. This will save your reagents and is precise enough now. Also don't shake the pH test after adding the drops, simply roll the capped tube a couple time before matching the color. The CYA test is unique (turbidity test) but dive right in and read up on the tips for the testing.
Have fun with it and take charge of your pool.
Oly
Gold Supporter
nieuport17
Active member
- Feb 4, 2021
- 35
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I wonder what your ph is like... 1/2 gal in the morning, and 1/2 gal in the evening... wow.
My pool store always test my TA high, like 50-70 over what my Taylor test would be.
My pool store always test my TA high, like 50-70 over what my Taylor test would be.
Ok, so I got 2 test methods. A 7-1 dip strip tester, and a Taylor K-1005 9-way kit. The strips show the alkalinity high, and the taylor kit shows it ridiculously high....like 25 drops to turn from green to red. That's like 1000ppm!!! Ph is high around 7.8 to 8.
Added a little bit of acid...all I had left...but I dont think that's gonna be enough. Any thoughts on why it's so high???? What I can try??? Saltwater pool, and the water is crystal clear.
Added a little bit of acid...all I had left...but I dont think that's gonna be enough. Any thoughts on why it's so high???? What I can try??? Saltwater pool, and the water is crystal clear.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,767
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
nieuport17
Active member
- Feb 4, 2021
- 35
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Taylor TA test 25 drops x 10 = 250 ppm (assuming you use the default 25ml water sample).
My TA was pretty high in the first two weeks.
Muriatic Acid is your answer. Be patient. TA will drop, and keep the pH down.
Based on the Effects of Adding app, 1 cup of Muriatic Acid (31.45%) will only drop my TA by 7.8 (based on 16,000)
So, yeah, it will take sometime, but it will get there.
Last edited:
Your right, I misread the label! For once I'm glad I cant do math. Thx.