Confused.. CYA numbers

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wyckoffpool

Active member
Jun 19, 2022
44
NJ
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Confused... have gone to two local pool stores and they both say this is okay. The water doesn't look terrible, but it's not as sparkly clear as usual.. almost has a bit of a haze recently.

Based on the pool school posts here, my CYA looks low. ALK looks high. Is that correct? Any help please?

I have a SWG. I'm aware I have to put some salt in, but I'm more concerned about the other numbers. Thank you.

IMG_0939.JPG
 
I'm going to make two assumptions, so correct me if I'm wrong:
1 - Those test results are accurate. We prefer drop testing from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006c, but ......
2 - You have a vinyl pool

If so, your CYA and FC are extremely low. If you don't already have algae you would be extremely lucky. For a salt pool, we recommend a CYA of about 70, but before increasing it that high, I would first encourage you to only increase the CYA to 30 then do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. My concern is you already have a heavy organic load in the water and you might require a SLAM Process first.
 
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Please be sure to update yoru signature with all of your pool and equipmetn info. We really don't like to make assumptions here at TFP. You know what they say about assumption. :)

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Thanks for the reply. I had a hunch something was off. This is only the second summer with the pool, still learning a lot.

The pool is fiberglass. Does that change anything you've written?
 
wyckoffpool said:
The pool is fiberglass. Does that change anything you've written?
Click to expand...
As long as you don't have a waterline tile, no. But as noted above, be very careful about those test results. They make us a little nervous since they aren't form a reliable drop test kit.
 
Texas Splash said:
As long as you don't have a waterline tile, no. But as noted above, be very careful about those test results. They make us a little nervous since they aren't form a reliable drop test kit.
Click to expand...
I updated my signature- still not sure how to make it stacked like you have under your photo.

Yes - I do have waterline tile.

What should I do next - afraid if I order a test kit it it'll be days and not sure if I can wait that long?
 
wyckoffpool said:
Yes - I do have waterline tile.
Click to expand...
In that case you need a minimum CH of 250 so that the water doesn't try to pull the calcium out of the grout. Then you'll start to see tiles falling off. Don't worry so much about the TA right now. Focus on the CYA, FC, and CH. Use some liquid chlorine right away to get the FC up to about 4-5 ppm and try to keep it there.
 
In case you need this ........

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After soaking for about 20-30 minutes, squeeze the sock often to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
wyckoffpool said:
What should I do next - afraid if I order a test kit it it'll be days and not sure if I can wait that long?
Click to expand...
If you ensure you can keep at least 4-5 ppm of chlorine in the pool, you should be okay. You'll still need to perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to be sure, but at least you can keep things from going in the wrong direction. For the CYA, I would only add about 30 ppm worth right now until you get one of those kits. Then you can be sure where you really stand. But 30 ppm of CYA should help to protect the chlorine a little bit. Certainly better than what you have now. You can add some calcium at any time too.
 

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Some info about calcium ......

Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.
 
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wyckoffpool said:
What should I do next - afraid if I order a test kit it it'll be days and not sure if I can wait that long?
Click to expand...

Order a recommended test kit TODAY.
The longer you wait to order, the longer it will take to get to you.
If you order today, it will probably ship tomorrow. There is a chance you will receife itby Saturday or Monday.
Get a TF-Pro Salt (inclides SmartStir) or TF-100 Salt and add the SmartStir test kit - as you have a SWG.
While not cheap, either of these test kits will provide the tests necessary to best manage your pool water.

While waiting for your test kit to arrive, add 5ppm chlorine daily.
If those results are to be believed, your CYA is low and will allow chlorine to burn off pretty quickly.

You may have to add chlorine a couple of times daily - but you need to test yourself before adding. I suggest you go to Walmart or similar and grab a cheap FC and pH test kit. It will be accurate enough to hold you over until the TF test kit arrives. You can't use the cheap kit referenced to effectively manage your pool water long term though.
 
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I called four stores nearby and no one has liquid chlorine... will keep searching.
I do have test strips to hold me over in the meantime.
 
Texas Splash said:
In that case you need a minimum CH of 250 so that the water doesn't try to pull the calcium out of the grout. Then you'll start to see tiles falling off. Don't worry so much about the TA right now. Focus on the CYA, FC, and CH. Use some liquid chlorine right away to get the FC up to about 4-5 ppm and try to keep it there.
Click to expand...
Okay, I have gotten liquid chlorine. How long should the filters be on after I pour it in? Don't want to pour it too close to them turning off this evening.

PS - is any of this "situation" due to weather? This year has been very rainy and grossly humid (along with being hot) - we haven't had to run sprinklers in 3 weeks, and gained over 5" of rainwater in the pool. Just curious.
 
Once added, CYA typically only goes down when you drain/exchange water or have a leak. CYA does degrade slowly each month, but only by about 5ppm or so depending on the pool. CH is very similar, so unless you added calcium, any CH there now is probably from the local water source. FC must be added each day during the swim season. Pools eat chlorine like a pet eats food, so we have to stay on top of it. Even for salt pools, keep a jug or two of liquid chlorine around just in case.
 
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Updates: Ordered the TF-100, and put a gallon of liquid chlorine in yesterday.

I'm still confused as to what the root cause is; for background, last year we had the pool professionally opened and closed, and during the season all we had to do was add salt. Pretty maintenance free, which is what the previous owners also told us.

When you say "Pools eat chlorine like a pet eats food" I don't understand this statement. This is why I have a SWG. I understand keeping a jug or two around, but adding everyday doesn't seem right.

We don't have kids, there are not many people going in the pool, no sunscreen splashing, etc.. its pretty tame. Why would my chlorine drop so much?
@Texas Splash
 

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