Colorado gal testing the hot tub waters

[LazyHensDaySpa]

Hi all,

I’m totally new to all this. We decided to try out the low end ($$) of owning at hot tub this year. We usually frequent hot springs all year; but with covid we’ve been mostly home, so I thought I’d see if we were ‘hot tub’ people. I’ve heard it takes some maintence, dedication & education.
I didn’t really expect such a steep learning curve right off the bat. But, we decided to skip the chemicals initially, then came the infamous intex E90 error. I read a lot about what to do, seems like there’s lots of ‘ways’. However, despite being pretty good at chemistry in college ~ this real life application isn’t so straightforward...but maybe that’s because I messed it up first and then am attempting to fix it.
We’re breaking the rules and running it below 39 degrees. I’m hoping to keep it warm at least until mid week when more filters & the frog system are scheduled to arrive. If it’s warm enough, I’ll drain it and start over then. In the meantime, I’ve just been adding a chemical waiting and re testing...and of course the obligatory filter cleaning (I found a solution to help with that at Home Depot).
The manual recommended an equation for SI (saturation index) to be sure the water is balanced and safe to enter, but it’s for chlorine and I’m using bromine ~ any thoughts on how to be sure the water is safe chemically??

 

[Mdragger88]

Welcome
No chemicals = bacteria soup.
Please read
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
here’s a write up on bromine use

How do I use Bromine in my spa (or pool)?

Originally Posted by waterbear There is a lot of misinformation on the proper way to use Bromine so I hope this primer is helpful. First, you need to establish a bromide reserve in the water. Bromine tablets can do it by themselves but it can take literally weeks until enough dissolves. Some...

www.troublefreepool.com

A good test kit is imperative to maintain sanitary water & get accurate results
Test Kits Compared
& PoolMath can help u with calculating additions.
Since you haven’t used the frog system yet I suggest u send it back when it comes as it is just an overpriced bromine or chlorine delivery system that claims u need less chlorine/bromine to be sanitary because of minerals that u cannot even test for & that can cause other problems
“Minerals” do not prevent person to person transmission of pathogens.
- here’s some info about systems like that

Aqua Smarte Mineral System - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[LazyHensDaySpa]

I’ve read the articles you suggested, thank you.

My thought is that I’m not so far off (chemical wise) and this seems about par for course when learning ...trial and error.

I am in the process of a bromine shock with brominating tabs & non-chlorine shock oxidizer (MPS). I’m not sure how long the process takes, but I did test (with my inferior intex test strips) and found for the first time, that the pH is ~7.6. I haven’t been able to get it to budge from 6.8 no matter how many times (~4 or 5 times) I’d added sodium carbonate. I think I am observing some relationship between bromine (or maybe chlorine (chloro) & dimethylhydantoin as that’s in the tabs too) and pH?

However, the free chlorine is at 10, the top of the scale & it kind of burns my skin to touch the water. I tested ~30 minute after the shock, is it normal for it to go so high and for the process to take longer than this? Maybe it’s based off of the flow rate (460 gallons/hour?)

I haven’t added CYA as the hot tub is not exposed to much (if any) sunlight. It has a cover and is in the shade. Probably open for a max of 1 hour/day on the days we use it.

I’ve requested an exchange from the frog system to the Taylor bromine test. Not sure if they’ll allow it due to shipping regs? Thanks for the info on that too!

kindly,
Annie

 

[Mdragger88]

Hopefully that is the Taylor K-2106 the fas-dpd test which is essential for testing higher levels of free chlorine/ bromine & contains the ph,ta,ch tests as well.
If u have not added any chlorine then your strips are registering the bromine in the 20’s as you multiply the chlorine result by 2.25 I believe.
I am not real familiar with or fond of bromine tubs as all the associated chem dosing & effects cannot be measured withPoolMath & tested for easily. I don’t like flying blind w/ mps
Although I would imagine it will come down in time just follow the bromine sticky i posted earlier. It is also @ the top of this spa forum. It should be fine to use when bromine drops below 10ppm.
There is also a sticky guide on how to use chlorine for your spa if you decide bromine doesn’t work for u. That would require a fresh start with new water as you cannot switch from bromine to chlorine.

How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?

If you have a question about any information within this Sticky, please start a new thread for yourself where you will receive very quick responses to your specific questions. Thank you! Introduction There are two main things to consider when maintaining your hot tub water, Water Balance and...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[LazyHensDaySpa]

I’m considering chlorine instead as it seems from reading here that, properly maintained, it shouldn’t be a skin & eye irritant. My only experience with hot tubs have been public hot tubs with lots of chemical smell that leave me uncomfortable in my skin.

It also seems like it (chlorine) will maintain a higher pH. Mine is back down to 6.8 again ~ it seem like it just wants to sit there. But, the free chlorine is still reading at 10 ~ thanks for that conversion to bromine of ~2.25 ...so 20 ppm bromide.

I’m still reading through the bromine thread, and it looks like some hydrogen peroxide could bring the bromine down? I wonder if that would alter the pH?

Yes, it is the Taylor kit you mentioned...thanks for confirming. I think the initial investment up front (of a decent testing kit) will save $$$ down the line. Which test kit would you recommend for Clorine based system? Is clorine a little simpler?
...I’ll start reading that thread here soon

Thank you for your help!

P.S. Yeah, the MPS seems like a chemical with some serious consequences health wise + I’m afraid my kids might try something with it ...I’d rather not have it around. Is there a thread on proper disposal of chemicals??

 

[Mdragger88]

I believe the k2106 will work for chlorine as well - not sure if the instructions will be quite the same as when measuring bromine
Here’s a thread explaining that

New hot tub owner with sanitizer and water chemistry questions

Hello all, Let me begin by stating that I have read over many threads, comments and questions on here and I am simply amazed by the overwhelming knowledge that some of you have about water chemistry, pools, and hot tubs. I am grateful that there are people like you who are willing and able to...

www.troublefreepool.com

In my opinion chlorine is simpler - since i am also the kind who prefers to be able to test for everything i add to my water.
All pool/spa chems should be stored away from kids - they can all have dire consequences if handled improperly. I have never had the need/desire to use mps but some do on occasion even in a chlorine tub. Maybe store it away for later use.

 

[jseyfert3]

The K-2106 cannot differentiate between FC and CC. It also lacks the CYA test.

The K-2006 is the correct test kit for FC. I also highly recommend the SpeedStir, but it’s not required.

I’m considering chlorine instead as it seems from reading here that, properly maintained, it shouldn’t be a skin & eye irritant. My only experience with hot tubs have been public hot tubs with lots of chemical smell that leave me uncomfortable in my skin.

Eye irritation and chemical smell are primarily due to CC’s, or combined chlorine. These are often high in commercial settings due to bather load. Generally speaking they are much lower with TFP methods.

Skin irritation as I understand is more often a pH imbalance or insufficient sanitation allowing stuff to grow.

It also seems like it (chlorine) will maintain a higher pH. Mine is back down to 6.8 again ~ it seem like it just wants to sit there. But, the free chlorine is still reading at 10 ~ thanks for that conversion to bromine of ~2.25 ...so 20 ppm bromide.

The choice of sanitizer does not have a massive direct impact on the pH. However, if the water has a low TA, acidic tablets will tend to cause a pH drop, while using liquid chlorine (bleach) will not.

Do you know your TA level?

We’re breaking the rules and running it below 39 degrees.

We had an Intex 6-person spa originally. These things are really not made for outdoor use in cold weather. Even if they maintain temp, they probably won’t stay warm enough for long enough to be enjoyable. Ours could not hold a temp of 100 with the lid off in ambient temps of 60 or below, and that was without bubbles which will massively and quickly cool the tub. I know you want to jump right in (literally and figuratively) but it may be better on your and your wallet to drain and wait till spring?

P.S. Yeah, the MPS seems like a chemical with some serious consequences health wise + I’m afraid my kids might try something with it ...I’d rather not have it around. Is there a thread on proper disposal of chemicals??

I’m not immediately aware of a thread. You can check the SDS for disposal instructions. Can you elaborate on the health issues? I’m not immediately aware of any long term health consequences of MPS. As @Mdragger88 said, all pool chemicals are hazardous in concentrated form (not when used appropriately though) and should be stored outside the reach of children.

 

[Mdragger88]

I think the op will need to just add the R-0003 regeant to measure cc. As well as a cya test.
These are available @ a fairly low cost @ tftestkits.net
She was able to exchange her frog system for the kit. Not sure if that can be changed at this point.