Cloudy water again!

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Just roll with it. Normally a CYA of 70 is recommended with a salt pool, but with the enclosure protecting your water you may be one of those other circumstances that can get away with a slightly lower CYA. But don't go out of your wat to lower it now. Just maintain the FC level of 28 and press on. As the season progresses, the CYA should slowly fall anyways. Hang in there.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
40,984
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
17888
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Ok so this is ok right?
That depends. If you are doing a SLAM Process, the FC is too low. But if you are not in a SLAM, it is fine. Remember the pH test will appear high when the FC is over 10. So if your FC is elevated, ignore pH testing until you allow the FC to drop to normal levels.
 
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TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
That depends. If you are doing a SLAM Process, the FC is too low. But if you are not in a SLAM, it is fine. Remember the pH test will appear high when the FC is over 10. So if your FC is elevated, ignore pH testing until you allow the FC to drop to normal levels.
It’s my OCLT test. I didn’t slam. When I noticed the water change, I raised the FC, changed the filter cartridge and ran the filter on high for 24 hours. Then turned it down to medium last night and did the OCLT test. Should I slam anyway? The water is crystal clear.
 

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
It’s my OCLT test. I didn’t slam. When I noticed the water change, I raised the FC, changed the filter cartridge and ran the filter on high for 24 hours. Then turned it down to medium last night and did the OCLT test. Should I slam anyway? The water is crystal clear.
CC is still 0
 

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
If your SWG was OFF last night for the OCLT, then you passed and do not require a SLAM. But if you left the SWG on by mistake, the OCLT was invalid.
I turned it off 3 hours before taking the last test. Ok no spam and fingers crossed it doesn’t happen again! Thank you.
 

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
If your SWG was OFF last night for the OCLT, then you passed and do not require a SLAM. But if you left the SWG on by mistake, the OCLT was invalid.
Can I ask one more question? Could my low speed on VP not be operating as it should? Not mixing the water enough on 24/7? Maybe why I keep running into this problem? I recently changed it to 24/7 same speed - instead of scheduling a few hours on high speed each morning. Maybe that’s the issue? I read everywhere that low for 24/7 is acceptable. Maybe I need to speak to the PB?
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
40,984
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
17888
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Could my low speed on VP not be operating as it should? Not mixing the water enough on 24/7? Maybe why I keep running into this problem?
That's something you have to watch and consider. Being on low speed should move enough water through the SWG to keep it on to produce chlorine, but you also have to consider the location of your return jets to see if they are providing good circulation. Some pools have an area or two where water doesn't move much. Since your pool is in an enclosure, it may not have as much debris blow onto the water like my pool receives out in the open country. That's why I run on low 24/7. But it's really up to you. If you think poor circulation might be an issue, you can increase the time the pump is running, but then you might need to lower the SWG output as well. Something you can experiment with later.
 

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PoolBrews

Well-known member
Oct 16, 2019
496
The Villages, Florida
Pool Size
6750
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
I have had pools over the past 35 years, but this is my first plaster pool. I had never had issues like this with my previous 2 pools, yet I experienced the same type of issues you are seeing when they finished my Wet Edge pool.

I followed the TFP method meticulously, yet had to SLAM every 4-8 weeks. We have very little bather load (just me and my wife), and have a screened enclosure over the pool. I scrubbed the pool more frequently, ran my cleaner more often, cleaned filters, and finally swapped out filters. I pulled my light and checked, then even tried Borates - all to no avail.

I started tracking my numbers more closely, and noticed that anytime my chlorine dropped below 8-10, the haziness would show up within days (note that my CYA levels are always kept around 70-80). A quick SLAM would clear it up again for a month or so.

About a year and half ago, I started keeping my chlorine above 8 at all times and found that I could go 3-6 months before I would experience the haziness. Those times can be easily explained - usually after a heavy rain that washes a ton of pollen off the screen and into the pool.

I've posted this issue several times on TFP some time ago, but never really got any solution. The recommendations are what I listed as having tried. Maybe it's just a mid-Florida thing... or I'm really missing something obvious.
 
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PoolBrews

Well-known member
Oct 16, 2019
496
The Villages, Florida
Pool Size
6750
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
That depends. If you are doing a SLAM Process, the FC is too low. But if you are not in a SLAM, it is fine. Remember the pH test will appear high when the FC is over 10. So if your FC is elevated, ignore pH testing until you allow the FC to drop to normal levels.
Does the comment on pH testing apply to a pH meter as well, or just the drop test? It seems like my meter is accurate regardless of chlorine levels.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
40,984
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
17888
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
A good quality meter should not apply. See the discussion below for more details.

 

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
I have had pools over the past 35 years, but this is my first plaster pool. I had never had issues like this with my previous 2 pools, yet I experienced the same type of issues you are seeing when they finished my Wet Edge pool.

I followed the TFP method meticulously, yet had to SLAM every 4-8 weeks. We have very little bather load (just me and my wife), and have a screened enclosure over the pool. I scrubbed the pool more frequently, ran my cleaner more often, cleaned filters, and finally swapped out filters. I pulled my light and checked, then even tried Borates - all to no avail.

I started tracking my numbers more closely, and noticed that anytime my chlorine dropped below 8-10, the haziness would show up within days (note that my CYA levels are always kept around 70-80). A quick SLAM would clear it up again for a month or so.

About a year and half ago, I started keeping my chlorine above 8 at all times and found that I could go 3-6 months before I would experience the haziness. Those times can be easily explained - usually after a heavy rain that washes a ton of pollen off the screen and into the pool.

I've posted this issue several times on TFP some time ago, but never really got any solution. The recommendations are what I listed as having tried. Maybe it's just a mid-Florida thing... or I'm really missing something obvious.
Interesting… my FC dropped to around 7 last week for the first time since I slammed at exactly the same time the water started to lose its color. That’s why I was thinking of raising my CyA. I think I’ll just keep the FC at 8 then. It was below 5 the first time it happened for only a few days. Other than that I’ve kept it around 4-5 but now I have raised that to 7. I still get nervous as all these articles saying high chlorine wrecks the pool. But I’m gonna trust the advice on here and just run hot at 8 and see how it goes. Thanks for this - food for thought.
 

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
I have had pools over the past 35 years, but this is my first plaster pool. I had never had issues like this with my previous 2 pools, yet I experienced the same type of issues you are seeing when they finished my Wet Edge pool.

I followed the TFP method meticulously, yet had to SLAM every 4-8 weeks. We have very little bather load (just me and my wife), and have a screened enclosure over the pool. I scrubbed the pool more frequently, ran my cleaner more often, cleaned filters, and finally swapped out filters. I pulled my light and checked, then even tried Borates - all to no avail.

I started tracking my numbers more closely, and noticed that anytime my chlorine dropped below 8-10, the haziness would show up within days (note that my CYA levels are always kept around 70-80). A quick SLAM would clear it up again for a month or so.

About a year and half ago, I started keeping my chlorine above 8 at all times and found that I could go 3-6 months before I would experience the haziness. Those times can be easily explained - usually after a heavy rain that washes a ton of pollen off the screen and into the pool.

I've posted this issue several times on TFP some time ago, but never really got any solution. The recommendations are what I listed as having tried. Maybe it's just a mid-Florida thing... or I'm really missing something obvious.
And we have been getting a lot of heavy rain too.
 

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)

PoolBrews

Well-known member
Oct 16, 2019
496
The Villages, Florida
Pool Size
6750
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
To clarify, I'm not recommending that you keep it at 8 or higher - I don't know if this causes any issues or not. I only relate what's working for me. My wife and I have had no issues with the increased chlorine levels so far (over a year and a half).

Once the first heavy rain hits your screen, residue on the screen be should be mostly gone. I always test after a heavy rain - usually this mostly seems to affect my CYA and salt levels.
 

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
209
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
To clarify, I'm not recommending that you keep it at 8 or higher - I don't know if this causes any issues or not. I only relate what's working for me. My wife and I have had no issues with the increased chlorine levels so far (over a year and a half).

Once the first heavy rain hits your screen, residue on the screen be should be mostly gone. I always test after a heavy rain - usually this mostly seems to affect my CYA and salt levels.
Oh it’s ok - I was doing this anyway. It was just interesting to here from someone in sane situations- screen, Florida, low bather load and match it to what’s been going on. I’ve tried everything too. Will now try hotter FC. My CSI is pretty perfect so tbh I’m not terribly concerned with my equipment. Just gets tiring having people tell me high chlorine is bad 🙄
 

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