Cloudy pool, algae covered floor, no chlorine...

Welcome! :wave: Well, Leslie's certainly got their money's worth from you, and as you learned the expensive way it did no good. Nothing they said or sold you will help - period. You do need a proper test kit, that's #1. While you could order a Taylor K-2006C (the C is important), I would recommend the TF-100 (link in my signature). Better value overall.

Don't add anything else to the water right now except for 1 gallon of liquid chlorine each day. Walmart's Pool Essentials or Home Depot'[s HDX chlorine will work fine. One gallon per day is all for now until you get the test kit. Once you get the kit, post a full set of water test results in the format noted below and we'll be glad to help you.

FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

Does CC stand for combined chlorine or combined chloramines?
Welcome! :wave: Well, Leslie's certainly got their money's worth from you, and as you learned the expensive way it did no good. Nothing they said or sold you will help - period. You do need a proper test kit, that's #1. While you could order a Taylor K-2006C (the C is important), I would recommend the TF-100 (link in my signature). Better value overall.

Don't add anything else to the water right now except for 1 gallon of liquid chlorine each day. Walmart's Pool Essentials or Home Depot'[s HDX chlorine will work fine. One gallon per day is all for now until you get the test kit. Once you get the kit, post a full set of water test results in the format noted below and we'll be glad to help you.

FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

Today's test results:
07/01/2021
FC - .5
CC - I asked earlier if this is for combined chlorine or combined chloramines. I don't yet have the reagent for the chloramide test. It's on its way finally though.
CYA - unsure, black dot got blurry but didn't disappear.
PH - 7.5
TA - 120
CH - 375

The pool got filled accidentally once (handle got turned and left open on the filter) and then it rained so I had to backwash it twice. I'm going to add more CYA. More chlorine too this evening.
 
No. Pink after powder indicates FC. The R-0871 dropwise indicates FC ppm (in 10ml sample multiply by 0.5 the number of drops until is turns transparent. Next comes 3 drops of R-0003, if it turns pink again indicates presence of CC and R-0871 dropwise indicates CC level (same as FC)
Oh... I don't have the 0003 reagent yet. I thought that was for testing chloramide levels.
 
TC is FC+CC. The OTO TC test does not distinguish between them.

As your CYA test showed, zero, start 30 ppm CYA worth of stabilizer dissolving. For your your pool size that is 5 pounds. Split it up into several thin socks and hang in the front of returns or put a couple in the skimmer with the pump running.
Then add liquid chlorine to get to 12 ppm FC. That is 2 gallons of 10%. Then every two to three hours, test FC and add enough liquid chlorine to get back to 12 ppm FC.
How long do I wait to test FC after adding the chlorine?
 
Here's a pic so you know how the CYA test should look once your levels start to
come up. You'll get this. We were all newbies. You're in good hands here!!!
Oh, thank you so much! I downloaded this so I can use as a reference! My dot hasn't disappeared yet so I'm thinking I need to add more cyanuric acid.
 

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My numbers tonight were as follows:

07/02/2021
FC - 5
CC - no reagent to test with yet
CYA - 20
PH - 7.35
TA - 110
CH - 325

I was not home all day yesterday to do anything to the pool, so yesterday evening, I was like, let's see what happens if I add 4 gallons of this chlorine at one time, so I did. Finally getting some real results!!

I downloaded and have begun using the pool math app. I added another 3 pounds of CYA and a gallon of chlorine tonight. I'll retest tomorrow evening and let y'all know where I'm at with FC. I won't be able to do anything to the pool during the day tomorrow.

Thank you for all the help, everyone! 😊
 
...add enough liquid chlorine to get to 12 ppm FC. That is 2 gallons of 10%. Then every two to three hours, test FC and add enough liquid chlorine to get back to 12 ppm FC.
Now that I'm more familiar with the pool math app, I feel confident that I can get these levels up and more stable this week. For how long do I need to keep the level of FC at 12 ppm...just until the pool is clear (hopefully crystal!! 😅), or for longer?
 
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You guys are awesome. I know I will be in this boat soon to. Quick question, do you always need to have CYA on hand once your pool is up and running? Does it get used up so to speak or if all is stable that remains in the pool and you don't need to add during the pool season?

BTW DoePooled you are in great hands here!!
 
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Was reading through the thread. Now when people on Nextdoor ask about which pool service to hire I send them the link here and tell them to consider doing it themselves.
I also can relate to leslies “ here is your results $250 please”. Now I refuse to go in that store!! Could have bought the same stuff for a LOT less
 
If you are still doing the SLAM Process, you want to maintain that FC of 12 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria; water crystal clear, CCs 0.5 or less, and last but not least pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Happy 4th! :swim:
Thank you for letting me know about the OCLT test. I watched the video and read the information on the page you linked. Do I need to turn the filter off for the test or leave it running? I use chlorine. I don't think the filter we have has a high or low. If it does, we can't change the speed. The control panel is messed up so we can only turn it on and off.
 
So we tried to get more chlorine at our local Walmart yesterday. Apparently the Walmart stores in the East Texas area are running low or out of the Pool Essentials 10% chlorine. As far as I know, that's the only one they carry, other than powder forms. I had enough to SLAM the pool last night, and added the last gallon a little bit ago, before we left to head to another town where they have an ample supply of liquid chlorine, according to the sales associate in the garden center. We shall see!!

Here's where my numbers are at this afternoon :
07/05/2021, 4pm
FC - 6
CC - n/a
CYA - 40
pH - 7.35
TA - 110
CH - 300
 
Do I need to turn the filter off for the test or leave it running?
Since you are in the middle of a SLAM, the pump should be on already, so it will be on for the OCLT as well.

If the pool sections of Walmart, Home Depot, etc are out of pool chlorine (10%), you can still use regular laundry bleach. No Clorox brand and nothing that says splashless or scented, Just the plain regular bleach.
 
Why no
Since you are in the middle of a SLAM, the pump should be on already, so it will be on for the OCLT as well.

If the pool sections of Walmart, Home Depot, etc are out of pool chlorine (10%), you can still use regular laundry bleach. No Clorox brand and nothing that says splashless or scented, Just the plain regular bleach.
Why no Clorox brand? I had one gallon of Clorox 6%, plain, unscented, and one of the pool chlorine, and I added both of them earlier. I'm FINALLY getting ALMOST 12FC...11.5 just now, but it COULD'VE been at LEAST 12 earlier, because I ran out to Lowe's, right after I added the chlorine, and got 15 bottles of pool chlorine, yay!!!
Just did a few tests, going to add more muriatic acid, and a tiny bit of chlorine, to bring the TA down, and the FC to 12.
FC - 11.5
PH - 7.2
TA - 110
CH - 325
I noticed CH seems to be fluctuating. Is this normal? I wouldn't have tested it again tonight but I was curious, and sure enough, it changed again. Thanks for your help!!
 
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