Closing steps first season using TFPs

[TazJMT]

Hello All,

Ok so this was my first full season using TFP, so I would kind of like to get the closing right also. I have read the pool school closing article and some closing threads on here. Here is what I normally do (with some questions sprinkled it), want to see if I am missing anything here and also how to get my darn cover to last more than 1 season:

1) Make sure pool is balanced properly
2) Bring water up to SLAM level-
Question:is this just a one time add to get it to that FC level or am I maintaining and passing OCLT?
3) Question: Before covering, do I let the water drift down to the "target range" FC level, stay at SLAM level, or something else?
4) Last thing I add before shutting it down for the season is polyquat 60
5) put cover over the simmer mouth (skimmer we have has a plastic snap on cover so we do not need to drain water level down below skimmer)
6) Unhook/cap off all plumbing
7) open the drain cap on the bottom of my sand filter to drain the water-a few days later when I know it is as empty as it can be, i store it in the shed
8) inflate 2 black inner tubes stack on top of each other and tie together and float to center of pool with long enough cord to tie in 3 spots to outside of pool so float stays centered Amazon.com: Tube In a Box the Original Swim and Snow Tube, 45" XL: Garden & Outdoor
9) put cover on over pool, tie down with cable and winch and also use cover clips
10) I pump water off of my winter cover religiously over the winter

A couple other things:

As I have been reading this forum, I see that a few have mentioned to close the pool when the water temp gets down to 60. There is no way I have ever done that. Is this necessary? I also open the pool later than most (mid June in NJ) and am sure the temp is higher than that

In the Pool School "winterizing your pool" article, it mentions to remove the multi port spider gasket-what is that? Am i taking something off of the filter?

How do I properly clean our solar cover for storage? I have always just used regular detergent dish soap and a bucket or water, then rinsed it off, let dry and fold to store

thanks

John

 

[Texas Splash]

Hey John! Since no one has replied, yet, I'll get this one going and hopefully others wil chime-in. Overall I think you have it, but here's a few notes:
#2, #3 and #4 kind of go together. If your water is already clear and algae-free, it's a one-time thing to increase the FC level (if you want to). If all is well, then you can cover. But you don't want to add Poly 60 when the FC is elevated like that. The chlorine will just consume it. For Poly 60, you want to let the FC fall back to its normal ragne if you're going to use Poly (not everyone does). Some folks don't even go to SLAM level at closing because they know their water is algae-free, the water is cold, and they open early. But based on your pool and history of algae at opening in the spring, you'll have to make that call or try different methods each year to see what works best for you.

As for the water temp, below 60 is best because it is much more difficult for algae to grow. Close too early (or late) when the water gets warmer and your chances of algae increase dramatically. Hope that helps get you going.

 

[Divin Dave]

I second what he said ^^^^^^

 

[gonfishin]

Question:is this just a one time add to get it to that FC level or am I maintaining and passing OCLT?
3) Question: Before covering, do I let the water drift down to the "target range" FC level, stay at SLAM level, or something else?
4) Last thing I add before shutting it down for the season is polyquat 60

As I have been reading this forum, I see that a few have mentioned to close the pool when the water temp gets down to 60. There is no way I have ever done that. Is this necessary? I also open the pool later than most (mid June in NJ) and am sure the temp is higher than that
In the Pool School "winterizing your pool" article, it mentions to remove the multi port spider gasket-what is that? Am i taking something off of the filter?

How do I properly clean our solar cover for storage? I have always just used regular detergent dish soap and a bucket or water, then rinsed it off, let dry and fold to store

When the water temps are in the low 60s, I have always brought to SLAM level and call it good. I'll put the winter cover on but leave the pump running until the water is in the 50s. (which is normally a matter of days after putting on the winter cover). I use a siphon pump to lower my water level to about 4" below the return.

I have never removed the multiport when closing. I do make sure no water is left in the sand filter and detach all plumbing. Then I tarp it for the winter.

I use a mixture of bleach and water to clean my solar cover each fall, then cover it with a tarp on its reel after it dries.

 

[TazJMT]

Hey John! Since no one has replied, yet, I'll get this one going and hopefully others wil chime-in. Overall I think you have it, but here's a few notes:
#2, #3 and #4 kind of go together. If your water is already clear and algae-free, it's a one-time thing to increase the FC level (if you want to). If all is well, then you can cover. But you don't want to add Poly 60 when the FC is elevated like that. The chlorine will just consume it. For Poly 60, you want to let the FC fall back to its normal ragne if you're going to use Poly (not everyone does). Some folks don't even go to SLAM level at closing because they know their water is algae-free, the water is cold, and they open early. But based on your pool and history of algae at opening in the spring, you'll have to make that call or try different methods each year to see what works best for you.

As for the water temp, below 60 is best because it is much more difficult for algae to grow. Close too early (or late) when the water gets warmer and your chances of algae increase dramatically. Hope that helps get you going.

Thank you. Didnt know CL eats poly 60

 

[ajw22]

Thank you. If I bring the pool up to SLAM level with a one time add, do I let the FC drift back to normal range (take a few days) or cover it while it is still at/near SLAM level?

thanks again

Pouring Polyquat 60 after the CL driftdown and right before covering is a good insurance policy.

 

[TazJMT]

Pouring Polyquat 60 after the CL driftdown and right before covering is a good insurance policy.

Great thanks-I'll let it drift down to about 6 (CYA between 30-40) and then add poly 60 and let it circulate for about an hour

@ajw22 Since you are in NJ also, are you closing soon? I assume your water cant be down to 60 or so yet-mine is still 70

 

[ajw22]

@ajw22 Since you are in NJ also, are you closing soon? I assume your water cant be down to 60 or so yet-mine is still 70

I will be closing the week of Oct 21. I have an attached spa that we continue to use after it is too cold to heat the entire pool.

Third week of October is just before the leaves begin falling. I need to get the cover on before the leaves make too big of a mess in the water.

 

[TazJMT]

I will be closing the week of Oct 21. I have an attached spa that we continue to use after it is too cold to heat the entire pool.

Third week of October is just before the leaves begin falling. I need to get the cover on before the leaves make too big of a mess in the water.

Ah yes didnt read that you have a heater in your signature

 

[JoeSelf]

Put the poly in the night before closing and run pump to mix well. A solid cover helps with closing early and opening later. I open Mothers day weekend or as close as possible. Opening earlier than Mid June is a good way to prevent having a green mess at opening.

 

[thefloatqueen]

Don’t mind me. I’m just here for the comments. This will be my first year closing, too!