I'm just wondering what should be done to this fresh water if the pool is not going to get used at all, and will be covered immediately? So we had our old liner rupture last month, and caused quite a blow-out in the floor of the pool. I had also been dealing all summer with CYA levels through the roof (160-180). So I knew the water had to go and the liner was really old anyway. After the blow-out I repaired all the sand and footings, installed a Rhino Pad, permanent stick on cove, and a new liner. Then I filled it with city tap water, (we have pretty good tap water here, well balanced and clean, for drinking etc.) Now that it is filled I need to know what is my best option for the winter, since it is not going to be swam in until next season, I did not re connect the pump, filter or solar heaters (since I live in Maine I take those items and put them indoors for the winter, so they cant freeze, and to keep them more protected.) In years past we would always just bring a water sample to the pool store and they would tell us to put (X) amount of tri-chlor, or similar, in a floating extended release device. But I have decided to stay with the TFP methods, and avoid using those chemicals. So do I still have to get the water fully balanced and chlorinated even though I am covering it immediatly, or is there a different procedure since the water is basically untreated at the moment? Also I would prefer not to have to re-install the pump and filter, since it has to be removed for the winter anyway.
Closing pool immediatly after new liner and city water refill, what steps needed?
- Thread starter JL5086
- Start date
It’s pretty much half a dozen or six. You can hook everything back up and spend a few days balancing or just expect to probably have to clear the green in the spring.
Well that answer brings up another question, If I did just leave it until spring, should I definitely be expecting the pool to be green. If so would opening it as early next season as I can help to mitigate the algae. The only algae I have really had to battle was when my cya was through the roof this year and it was a real pain, I’m hoping it will be a bit easier now that my water is new (cya levels ok) and I can SLAM. Is there any sense in adding some chlorine?
Thanks
Thanks
Opening early is key either way. If it does go green you will only be battling leftover algae and not explosively growing new algea. Chlorine now is a good idea but I’m not a chemistry guru so we will need one of the experts to chime in with how much will help.
Also, there were 2 threads last week from people who had to leave home due to family emergencies and one where the guy was having surgery and needed to close a bit early as well. Look up the ideas from those threads for a comparable plan for you. In a perfect world we all have the time money and energy to properly maintain the pool. Life sometimes gets in the way of that and something else takes precedence. Or in you’re case where you are already 3/4 closed so it may not make complete sense to fully reopen just to close again. You can add chemicals and stir with a brush without hooking the pump back up. Chlorine will certainly help but I would also get the other #s at least somewhat in range if any of them are really out of whack.
You take chances closing early which would likely respond to a green opening anyway. Many people close early by circumstance, and it just means a spring SLAM.
You could buy a cheap submersible pump and chlorinate/circulate maybe under cover till it gets below 60 degrees and then close for good if you want to spend money now to prevent a SLAM in the spring. Or save the money now and buy bleach next spring for SLAM.
Or reinstall the pump/filter and spend no extra money now and chlorinate for a few weeks, therefore potentially none in the spring. But no guarantees. That's mostly just your time and energy.
There's lots of options. None horrible. Some more costly. But not by much. You still gotta buy chlorine eventually.
You could buy a cheap submersible pump and chlorinate/circulate maybe under cover till it gets below 60 degrees and then close for good if you want to spend money now to prevent a SLAM in the spring. Or save the money now and buy bleach next spring for SLAM.
Or reinstall the pump/filter and spend no extra money now and chlorinate for a few weeks, therefore potentially none in the spring. But no guarantees. That's mostly just your time and energy.
There's lots of options. None horrible. Some more costly. But not by much. You still gotta buy chlorine eventually.
JL5086:
Considering you have an AGP, and a solid cover, IMHO, I would just add Poly 60, mix it thoroughly and close the pool. This will stall algae until it gets cold, etc. If you have submersible pump, just mix it properly and clean the pump. Also, how is the water now given that we are talking over 30 days - What exactly have you done? Thank you.
Considering you have an AGP, and a solid cover, IMHO, I would just add Poly 60, mix it thoroughly and close the pool. This will stall algae until it gets cold, etc. If you have submersible pump, just mix it properly and clean the pump. Also, how is the water now given that we are talking over 30 days - What exactly have you done? Thank you.
Well it's actually only been about 10-12 days since I filled the pool, and FWIW the water came out of the supply VERY cold (I could barely tolerate walking around in it to get the wrinkles out of the liner) The water is now only about 60-65 deg. at the surface now. other than some bugs and a handfull of pine needles and a few leaves ,which I am trying to net out every morning, the water is crystal clear and cold. I will test the water today, to get a base line reading, it's been raining on/off and havent had a chance to test yet. It really wouldn't be all that difficult to get the pump back out and hook it back up (without the solar collectors), but my maine reason for not really wanting to is the fact that I only filled the pool up to a few inches below the skimmer, knowing that is where I need it to be to close it for the winter. I have already spent SO MUCH money this year on water, between leaks, draining to attempt to reduce my CYA levels, and then the catastophic liner failure that prompted all this. So I hate to fill the pool up with more water, just to have to drain some again once the chemicals are all sorted. Also what exactly is Poly 60?
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,100
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Polyquat 60 is short for Poly{oxyethylene(dimethyliminio)Ethylene (dimethyliminio)ethylene dichloride} 60%. It is a chemical algaecide. Many manufacturers bottle it. Look for pure Polyquat 60 like from Pro Team
So leave the water down and mix any chemicals with a brush. I dilute everything that doesnt specifically say not to dilute. It will make mixing even easier.
Thanks Allen for explaining the Poly 60 in more detail. The manufacturer specifically states that the algaecide should be mixed for 12-24 hours. This is why a submersible pump will be sufficient as you do not want to add water only to remove water. It is your best source. I have a thread somewhere from Chem Geek, but again this is your best defense.
ok sounds like a good idea to put in some of that poly, So with a submersible pump I would be just using it almost like a fountain, sort of, pump water from the bottom, up to the surface, to mix it up?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,100
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pump the water from one side of the pool and put the hose in the other side to create some circulation.
Here is more about Polyquat 60...
www.troublefreepool.com
Here is more about Polyquat 60...
Algaecides - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com