Closing an in ground pool

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DeeMac said:
Closing our pool ourselves for the first time and dumb question, does it matter what the multiport valve is set to ?
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At what point in the process? Might want to start a new thread and have folks walk you through the whole thing.
 
Thank you we do have a close valve so we will put it on that.....and we have blown out all the skimmers and jets but getting nothing coming out of the main drain.....have used a shop vac and leaf blower ....and nothing....do we just need something more powerful to blow out the main drain
 
I'm new to doing this so I could be mistaken but I think you'll have the best luck if you shut everything off you can from the flow to the main drain except the air source. How are you setup for it now? My plan was to set my filter on CLOSED and then have the skimmer and main drain valves open - and blow from the gizzmo to the main drain. If this doesn't work my plan is to blow it from the pump basket if I can rig it with a right angle adapter.

The point is the less pipe you have to pump through the better I think. But again - I've not yet done it.
 
THe only thing open at this point is the main drain, and the hubbie has tried a few different ways with no luck....I am guessing we need more power.......we will try and see what we can do........last year a pool company closed it and my husband said that water shot out of the main drain, they had the professional pool gizmo.
Thanks for everyone's help.
 
Greetings,

Has anyone ever checked their PH after adding the max dosage of polyquat 60? I put in the polyquat yesterday and let it circulate for a good 6 hrs, this was of course after I had already gotten PH to 7.2-7.5. and also adjusted chlorine to shock and back down half way. I did a check today as the pool store is coming out to put on my 20x40 mesh cover, and my PH is off the charts--the darkest purple I have ever seen. I dumped just about the whole quart of Poly60 in yesterday per the notes I've seen 6-11 oz per 10000gal. I'm at 24000 gal so nearly the entire bottle.

Should I be concerned or let it go? I've got the water where I really can't circulate any more -- just between the bottom of skimmer and at the returns.

Thanks for your help.
Chris
 
CAW said:
Greetings,

Has anyone ever checked their PH after adding the max dosage of polyquat 60? I put in the polyquat yesterday and let it circulate for a good 6 hrs, this was of course after I had already gotten PH to 7.2-7.5. and also adjusted chlorine to shock and back down half way. I did a check today as the pool store is coming out to put on my 20x40 mesh cover, and my PH is off the charts--the darkest purple I have ever seen. I dumped just about the whole quart of Poly60 in yesterday per the notes I've seen 6-11 oz per 10000gal. I'm at 24000 gal so nearly the entire bottle.
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I haven't closed but I covered and put in polyquat - I'll check mine sometime in the next day or so.
 
Hello TFP Experts, this is the first time I am attempting to close my in-ground pool. I have one skimmer box, I am going drain the water down to the bottom of my skimmer faceplate and hook onto my pump basket drain plug with an air compressor to blow out the lines. How do you get anti-freeze in the skimmer line if there is still some water in the skimmer box? Won't the compressed air coming out of the skimmer line from the pump basket blow the anti-freeze out as well? I am also unsure of how to get antifreeze into the main drain line. Is an air lock sufficient to winterize the main drain? Thanks for the help!
 

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We normally drain our vinyl-lined pool below the jets as described, blow the lines, add anti-freeze etc. When we're done with all that, we refill the pool to about 2 inches below the skimmer. We do this because we are concerned about our liner collapsing. We have built-in steps and the top and most of the second step is exposed when we drain. Does using the method described in pool school help the sides stay up? We currently use a loop-loc cover and place a tarp over that to keep the sun and water from getting through.
 
JasonLion said:
For either sand or DE filters (that backwash), backwash throughly before starting the closing. For a DE filter, after closing it is best to remove the grids and clean them throughly. They can then be replaced in the filter or stored inside over the winter.
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1. After I backwash, do I replace the DE like I normally do after backwashing?
2. Do I need to do anything to remove the water from the body of the filter tank?
3. Any opinions on whether to replace the grid on the filter for the winter or keep it inside? (The former owner did the former, and he seems like a pretty thorough, if a bit casual, caretaker of his/my system.)
 
Closing pool myself for the first time.

2 questions:
1. What chlorine level should be in the pool before it can be covered with solid cover? I have about 20ppm right now (Thu morning) and plan on closing Sat or Sun. I was always told to keep chlorine level low (like 1-2ppm), otherwise the solid cover may get damaged.

2. Should heater plugs be removed or put back in for the winter? (I had the same pool company closing pool 2 seasons in the row. The first time they had them removed, 2nd time they were told to put them back in or vise versa)

Thanks
 
We have had our pool since 1987 and have a loop loc cover. We lower the water 4" below the skimmer because thats what we were told to do so very long ago. We have a well so the water coming thru the cover saves us having to bring the water level back up so lowering it has become a necessity since we have had the loop loc or we would overflow.

Closing instructions have told us to put the winter chemicals into the pool and circulate and THEN lower the water. To me its a waste of $$$$ chemicals and sure doesn't do the yard any good when the chemicals run into it while lowering. Is it ok to lower the water and then add the chemicals without circulating?

Thanks
Terri
 
tbenton said:
We have had our pool since 1987 and have a loop loc cover. We lower the water 4" below the skimmer because thats what we were told to do so very long ago. We have a well so the water coming thru the cover saves us having to bring the water level back up so lowering it has become a necessity since we have had the loop loc or we would overflow.

Closing instructions have told us to put the winter chemicals into the pool and circulate and THEN lower the water. To me its a waste of $$$$ chemicals and sure doesn't do the yard any good when the chemicals run into it while lowering. Is it ok to lower the water and then add the chemicals without circulating?

Thanks
Terri
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It's always recommended to circulate after adding winter chemicals but you may be able to get by without it. You may be the only one who can answer this for your situation by testing it. If you don't circulate at least mix each chemical separately in a 5 gal bucket with water and spread it around the pool. I have a similar situation to yours (loop loc, well, etc). I lower my pool below the skimmer before adding the winter chemicals. I then shut off my skimmer valve and circulate just through the bottom drain. I assume you don't have a bottom drain. You could probably rig up a short piece of vacuum hose or pvc pipe from the skimmer to the water level just circulate the water a little. In early spring I add more winter chemicals by mixing in a bucket as mentioned above but I can't circulate due to my equipment being stored. I just toss the robot in for a few hours to mix things up. If you have a robot maybe that would work for you at closing time.
 

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