CircuPool rj-45 Plus Reads High Temp - No Chlorine Generated

[johnway2]

I have an Rj-45 Plus that is in it's 4th year. Was working until a few days ago when I got a High Temp warning on the display. The temp is reading 164 degrees F. I called discountsaltpool.com where I purchased it. They recommended cleaning the cell before sending the unit in for repair. I have washed it out twice (1 part muriatic: 4 parts water) soaking it for 20 minutes each time. The unit still shows high temp. So now I'm faced with a dilemma. Should I wash it some more or send it in ($50 to ship it, plus parts, plus return shipping) I'm OK with sending it in, but would hate to do that and discover that I just needed to wash it one more time.

Anyone else have this same problem? What was the fix?

Also, checked my water chemistry and my CYA measured with a Taylor kit still had the black dot easily visible with a full tube... so at least 30... maybe lower) I've read that low CYA can cause issues... but would it cause the symptoms I'm seeing. Everything else is OK. pH 7.4, fc 3.5, alk 80, Calcium hardness 30

Anyway... just looking for the best advice for my situation.

Thanks,
John

 

[ajw22]

Every time you acid wash a SWG you reduce its life since the acid removes some of the rare earth on the plates in the cell. Don't wash it more.

Lack of CYA may cause low chlorine in the pool but not a high temperature shutdown of the cell.

You probably have a bad water temperature sensor.

 

[grivera69]

I have an Rj-45 Plus that is in it's 4th year. Was working until a few days ago when I got a High Temp warning on the display. The temp is reading 164 degrees F. I called discountsaltpool.com where I purchased it. They recommended cleaning the cell before sending the unit in for repair. I have washed it out twice (1 part muriatic: 4 parts water) soaking it for 20 minutes each time. The unit still shows high temp. So now I'm faced with a dilemma. Should I wash it some more or send it in ($50 to ship it, plus parts, plus return shipping) I'm OK with sending it in, but would hate to do that and discover that I just needed to wash it one more time.

Anyone else have this same problem? What was the fix?

Also, checked my water chemistry and my CYA measured with a Taylor kit still had the black dot easily visible with a full tube... so at least 30... maybe lower) I've read that low CYA can cause issues... but would it cause the symptoms I'm seeing. Everything else is OK. pH 7.4, fc 3.5, alk 80, Calcium hardness 30

Anyway... just looking for the best advice for my situation.

Thanks,
John

Did you resolve your issue? My RJ45+ is only one year old and the issue you describe is what I'm experiencing. Actual water temperature is 85 but the unit says high temperature and the generate light is blinking with production set to 50%. Chlorine drop test showed .5 ppm where it had been 2.0 ppm. I too cleaned my cell and reinstalled. At first it seemed to work normal but after 30 minutes the generate light was blinking.

 

[grivera69]

Update - I called Circupool yesterday and the tech said the temp sensor in cell is likely bad. The solution was to move the temp sensor chip in circuit board to a new position which reads temperature from the flow sensor. Because the supplied flow sensor doesn't have an integrated temp sensor the system reads a "default" temperature of 77 degrees. So far this is working and if it's still without issue for about 2 weeks, they will send me a flow sensor with an integrated temp sensor.

 

[sean.a.hyde]

Update - I called Circupool yesterday and the tech said the temp sensor in cell is likely bad. The solution was to move the temp sensor chip in circuit board to a new position which reads temperature from the flow sensor. Because the supplied flow sensor doesn't have an integrated temp sensor the system reads a "default" temperature of 77 degrees. So far this is working and if it's still without issue for about 2 weeks, they will send me a flow sensor with an integrated temp sensor.

Can you post how you did this in case it happens to others?

 

[RJ-45]

There is a Temp jumper you move inside the box, so it read temperature from flow switch instead of inside of a cell.
This is specialized flow switch with a thicker 4 wire construction instead of a normal 2 wires.
With the existing flow switch, it is missing the 2 extra wires, so temp default to 77, although your salinity reading is a bit off, but you can use the machine to generate and your pool is not turning green, while they ship you the flow switch.

 

[RJ-45]

One simple way to tell if your flow switch has the temp sensor or not is the thickness of the wire.
View attachment 352389

 

[RJ-45]

Temp Jumper need to move over 1 position, middle pin is shared with old setting.

Your jumper is most likely look like a tiny paint brush, commonly used on old IDE hard drive setting.View attachment 352392

 

[chlorinatorpro]

So is this just a temporary fix that needs to be switched back when the new flow switch arrives? If the temp sensor inside the cell is bad why wouldn't you just replace the cell if it was still under warranty?

 

[RJ-45]

This is a very clever design yet permanent fix, as you are reading temp from flow switch from this point on, which will allow you use the cell to their full potential.

If you buy a new cell some point in the future, you can continue to leave the jumper in the same position or move it back.

Water temperature measured from inside the cell and in flow switch, should be very close within a few minutes after the flow started.

Before this design, if the temp sensor failed within warranty period, the only solution is to replace a perfectly good working cell (some only a few month old)

Since we warranty everything for lifetime, this is a faster and cheaper way for us to fix the problem for customer, that is why we stuck with the generic brand.

On all new installs, we only use the flow switch with sensor and we have remote switch capabilities from our office, that save us a trip (gas and labor).

Otherwise we would have a room full of "HOT or COLD" cell with plenty of life left on the plates, hate to see such a waste consider how rare those materials exist on earth.

 

[~STOLEN~]

This is what caused my "high cell temp" error. Seems the blue wire was chewed on by something. Blue/Red wire go to temp sensor inside the T15 cell I have. Eventually found out that a chipmunk cost me $600.00

 

[RJ-45]

I would save that cell if Black and White wires are still good (assume cell plates got life left in them)

You can certainly use it (or sell it to some one) with a generic setup.