Circuit Board Aquarite Goldline SWG

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Put the leads in the two right holes and select V~.

Measure the voltage of the wires providing power by touching one lead to one wire and the other lead to the other wire.

Note: Only do what you can safely do.

If you don’t feel safe about any step, get assistance before proceeding.

Do anything at your own risk.
 
There are two silver spots right next to the original thermistor legs.

I think that the two spots are spaced to take an AS32 thermistor.

You just have to melt the solder at the silver spots to give you two holes that you can install the AS32 thermistor in.

Once you melt the solder, you might have to vacuum the liquid solder away to make big clean holes that the legs will go through.

You can use a desoldering suction tool or maybe just some vinyl tubing connected to a vacuum to suck away the solder if you are careful about not letting the hot solder get into the vacuum.

The solder should cool down quickly, but be careful that it does not cause a problem in the vacuum.
 
Are you sure that the cell says T-15 on it?

How old is the cell?

What are the first 4 characters of the cell serial number?

Has the salinity reading from the box been verified to be correct?

What is the box model number and what are the first 4 characters of the box serial number?
 
JamesW said:
On the front of the board, there is yellow printing that says “Primary/Secondary near the J7 jumper.

Below the J7 jumper is a J4 jumper.

If the two points of the J4 are connected, the board is configured to take a T-15 cell.

If the J4 points are not connected, the board is configured for a T-5 cell.

The J4 jumper points are not connected, which indicates T-5 is selected.

Are you sure that the cell says T-15 on it?

How old is the cell?

What are the first 4 characters of the cell serial number?

Has the salinity reading from the box been verified to be correct?

What is the box model number and what are the first 4 characters of the box serial number?

The yellow 20 amp fuse has a dark spot, which might mean that it is burned out. That’s a common fuse available at any auto parts or hardware store. Replace the fuse and connect the legs of the thermistor together to see if the board gives a display and check the diagnostic readings and report all readings.
Click to expand...
Thanks, again, for your reply. I found J-4 & J-7. Am unsure how to respond to J-4 not being connected. The entire unit was installed, new, in 2015, and, until now, has worked with no issues. The only item replaced is the actual cell, which happened in 2019. I cannot find serial number on replacement cell, but T-15 is printed on it. It has been cleaned of any deposit. The cell (and everything else) seemed to function properly until the moment it just stopped displaying anything. The box indicates it is an AQR15; serial number: 3A15201-104433. Hope this helps, for I am completely lost. Thanks.
 
JamesW said:
There are two silver spots right next to the original thermistor legs.

I think that the two spots are spaced to take an AS32 thermistor.

You just have to melt the solder at the silver spots to give you two holes that you can install the AS32 thermistor in.

Once you melt the solder, you might have to vacuum the liquid solder away to make big clean holes that the legs will go through.

You can use a desoldering suction tool or maybe just some vinyl tubing connected to a vacuum to suck away the solder if you are careful about not letting the hot solder get into the vacuum.

The solder should cool down quickly, but be careful that it does not cause a problem in the vacuum.
Click to expand...
Just checked, and the two silver spots you mentioned do not accommodate the AS32. Being that the board is removed from the box, I'm inclined to wait until the SL-32 thermistor arrives; unsolder existing legs & install new one. Is there anything further I should consider?
 
JamesW said:
Put the leads in the two right holes and select V~.

Measure the voltage of the wires providing power by touching one lead to one wire and the other lead to the other wire.

Note: Only do what you can safely do.

If you don’t feel safe about any step, get assistance before proceeding.

Do anything at your own risk.
Click to expand...
Your directions most helpful: Just checked using multimeter: is 240 volts.
 
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For the r1.59, the T-cell type 3, 5, 9, and 15 is selectable in the diagnostic.
Unfortunately, the r1.59 pcb does not have the predrilled through-holes to accommodate the AS32 thermistor. I've seen others shotgunning the thermistor on the 1.59 pcb but I have yet to see a thermistor actually failing on the 1.59.
If it is not possible for you to resolder back the original thermistor then just leave it for now. For troubleshooting purposes, the r1.59 should work even without the thermistor in place. The K4 relay will take over to carry the power to the cell.
In the meantime, follow JamesW's suggestions. Check the continuity of the yellow 20 Amp fuse. Place the multimeter to ~V and make sure you have 240VAC between terminals 1 and 4 at TB1. If the fuse is good and the 240VAC is present but the Display and LED's are not working then you want to watch the below.

Aquarite No Display No Lights == Fixed ==
Hayward Aquarite and Aquatrol/ Display and LED's not working/ Diagnose and Repair
 
The board seems odd in that it does not have the heat sink pads?

Will the AS32 thermistor fit any of the two silver spot?

For example, can you use an existing used spot and an unused spot?

It seems like some combination would work with the AS32 thermistor.

mainboard-jpg.170156
 
The thermistor on the 1.59 pcb is limited to .5 secs of duty on initial startup before the k4 relay takes over and bypasses the thermistor. The thermistor will never go hot. Hence the absence of the heat sink pads.
He can probably use the AS32 but as you mentioned earlier, he has to bend the legs to solder it to what was left on the bd.
 
Even with no thermistor, they should still get a display.

So, they can replace the fuse and see if they get a display.

If replacing the fuse gives a display and diagnostic readings, the new thermistor will probably work.

I suspect that the thermistor was probably never bad in the first place.
 
Note that the rectifier output can be measured at the terminals where the two red and the two black wires connect to the board at the top right (terminals are marked RED and BLK) to verify about 30 volts DC. Select V--- for testing dc voltage.

The transformer output can be tested at the two yellow wires coming from the transformer. The voltage should be about 24 volts AC. Select V~ for testing AC voltage.

 
Even with no thermistor, they should still get a display.
Click to expand...
Yes. For troubleshooting purposes, the 1.59 should still work without the thermistor. However, I would not defeat the purpose as a long-term solution.
So, they can replace the fuse and see if they get a display.
Click to expand...
Yes, provided there isn't a short circuit that would have caused the fuse to blow.
If replacing the fuse gives a display and diagnostic readings, the new thermistor will probably work.
Click to expand...
Yes
I suspect that the thermistor was probably never bad in the first place.
Click to expand...
Your suspicion is just as good as mine
 
Note that the rectifier output can be measured at the terminals where the two red and the two black wires connect to the board at the top right (terminals are marked RED and BLK) to verify about 30 volts DC. Select V--- for testing dc voltage.

The transformer output can be tested at the two yellow wires coming from the transformer. The voltage should be about 24 volts AC. Select V~ for testing AC voltage.

 
Henry,
The original Thermistor is part# MF73T-1, 2/18 (25mm dia made by Cantherm) as compared to the SL32 2R025 which is 31mm in dia by Ametherm. The empty tinned through-holes right next to the existing one is spaced out to accept an SL32. Just thought you should know.
Not ideal but you can use what you have. Bend the AS32 legs towards each other, cut it short, wrap the old legs around it and solder.
 
C0d3Sp4c3 said:
For the r1.59, the T-cell type 3, 5, 9, and 15 is selectable in the diagnostic.
Unfortunately, the r1.59 pcb does not have the predrilled through-holes to accommodate the AS32 thermistor. I've seen others shotgunning the thermistor on the 1.59 pcb but I have yet to see a thermistor actually failing on the 1.59.
If it is not possible for you to resolder back the original thermistor then just leave it for now. For troubleshooting purposes, the r1.59 should work even without the thermistor in place. The K4 relay will take over to carry the power to the cell.
In the meantime, follow JamesW's suggestions. Check the continuity of the yellow 20 Amp fuse. Place the multimeter to ~V and make sure you have 240VAC between terminals 1 and 4 at TB1. If the fuse is good and the 240VAC is present but the Display and LED's are not working then you want to watch the below.

Aquarite No Display No Lights == Fixed ==
Hayward Aquarite and Aquatrol/ Display and LED's not working/ Diagnose and Repair
Click to expand...
Can't thank you enough! Power going into terminals 1 & 4 at TB1 shows 240v. Multimeter does not make the buzz sound when I check for continuity on existing fuse, but does make that sound when I do continuity check on replacement fuse. I hope this shows no continuity in existing fuse, and that it is the basis of this dilemma. So will insert new fuse; leave thermistor terminals as is (bare/not connected to anything); reinstall the board tomorrow morning, and see what develops.

I ordered a new SL32 earlier this week & should arrive Monday. If the board functions as it is meant to after I reinstall it tomorrow morning, should I leave it as is, or solder in a new thermistor? Again, you've been extremely helpful & I am very grateful.
 
Install the fuse, jump the legs together and see if the display comes on and gives you diagnostic readings.

Leave the switch in the Off position until you get the new thermistor installed.

When the new thermistor comes in, install it and you should be good to go if the display readings are good.
 

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