- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
Chris From Central California
- Thread starter MonsterPoolMan
- Start date
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,671
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
UnderWaterVanya said:
Thanks! It looks intiminating! I will follow the directions here!
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,671
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
It is not hard, take your time it gets easy after you've done it a few days in a row.
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MonsterPoolMan said:
Do you happen to live on a hill or slope? you can save the $90 and do the garden hose gravity trick.
Put a weight on end of hose so it will stay submerged in pool, turn water on, with water on unscrew and cover end with rubber glove or similar, keep tight and walk to drain area (lower then pool) and remove glove.
Should start draining with not even wasting electricity, just migt have to borrow neighbors hose to double up.
ps. Dumb question but does your plumbing have a drain spigot? should be right after the pump. you could plumb one for
under$15 i bet.
Chlorine degrades fairly quick, so i like to get fresh every couple weeks, m. acid holds though.
GO 9'RS!
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
marty said:MonsterPoolMan said:
Do you happen to live on a hill or slope? you can save the $90 and do the garden hose gravity trick.
Put a weight on end of hose so it will stay submerged in pool, turn water on, with water on unscrew and cover end with rubber glove or similar, keep tight and walk to drain area (lower then pool) and remove glove.
Should start draining with not even wasting electricity, just migt have to borrow neighbors hose to double up.
ps. Dumb question but does your plumbing have a drain spigot? should be right after the pump. you could plumb one for
under$15 i bet.
Chlorine degrades fairly quick, so i like to get fresh every couple weeks, m. acid holds though.
GO 9'RS!
Go Niners! No, no hill here. I do have an submersible pump though.
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
UnderWaterVanya said:
Man, my CYA is barely over 100. I guess I will have to drain some more water? I just bought some more R-0013 as I used a whole bottle tonight to make sure my results, lol.............
MonsterPoolMan said:
To save on reagent when testing for CYA, I like to re-use the sample I'm measuring and actually pour the solution from the test cylinder back into the sample container and repeat the test 2 more times. My CYA reading then becomes the avg of 3 readings, because like many here, that little black dot plays tricks on me
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
dmanb2b said:MonsterPoolMan said:
To save on reagent when testing for CYA, I like to re-use the sample I'm measuring and actually pour the solution from the test cylinder back into the sample container and repeat the test 2 more times. My CYA reading then becomes the avg of 3 readings, because like many here, that little black dot plays tricks on me
I forget, does colder water make the test higher or lower? Could I just wait until spring to drain some water? My "old" chlorine test still goes brownish orange. :|
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,671
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
MonsterPoolMan said:
RE: CYA Test or FC test?
I think you mean the CYA test. Two options, first: fill the sink with warm water.
Then either put your whole water sample into a sealed bottle and drop it into the sink for a few minutes - test away without temperature problems OR pull out a smaller amount just for the CYA test and warm only that.
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
UnderWaterVanya said:
I meant CYA test. Does it read higher if cold? The chlorine test, should I be worried if it is still brownish orange?
marty said:
That is true of the DPD chlorine test, but the OTO chlorine test goes from clear to yellow to orange to brown.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,671
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
jblizzle said:
Marty did you mean the K2006? Your post could be read as Taylor in general and they make a boatload of tests including the basic kit in the TFP100 which is an OTO one. I think Chris did buy a K2006 but I'm pretty sure he had an OTO already prior to that which he used to get the Orange results.
EDIT: Found it! Before he got the Taylor in the mail he reported that he had a cheapie kit that gave him the brown results. I'm not sure which kit it was - it might be a basic Taylor, a Walmart Special, etc.
Colder water has the CYA test take longer before the precipitation (cloudiness) is fully developed. As for whether it reads too high or too low assuming you wait long enough, I've read that it goes either way depending on temperature. The test was calibrated at room temperature so should be roughly in the 60-80ºF temperature range when you do the test though I've never found a problem with it with warmer water near 90ºF.
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
UnderWaterVanya said:
Yes, I have the old cheapo one along with the K-2006. I was attemping to measure the chlorine with the K-2006 and after 23 drops of R-0871 and it didn't clear, I stopped and used the OTO one in which it turned brown/orange.
Pool water looks great but CYA is still over 100. Should I just wait until after winter to drain some water? I am concerned that I have shocked the pool too much and was worried about damaging anything. I have new filters but I am not going to installed until I am balanced.
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
chem geek said:
Thanks! I was worried that that the water was too cold. I waited overnight and I can't get a good reading because it is barely over 100, but there looks like a big difference from 100 to 90 on the vial (sp).
23 drops of R-0871 is only 11.5ppm of FC. That is no where near the correct shock value for a CYA of ~100ppm.
According to the Pool School chart, your shock FC level is ~39ppm ... that would be 78 drops!!! Which is why we generally recommend getting the TF-100 which has a lot more R-0871 ... and even suggesting the XL option which includes even more powder and reagent ... if you are having to perform the shock process.
Try the CYA test with 50/50 mix of pool water and tap water, then double the test reading. If you still have the current mix in the bottle, dump out half and refill with tap water and then double the test result (this should work for CYA levels that are not too high ... like 200+)
According to the Pool School chart, your shock FC level is ~39ppm ... that would be 78 drops!!! Which is why we generally recommend getting the TF-100 which has a lot more R-0871 ... and even suggesting the XL option which includes even more powder and reagent ... if you are having to perform the shock process.
Try the CYA test with 50/50 mix of pool water and tap water, then double the test reading. If you still have the current mix in the bottle, dump out half and refill with tap water and then double the test result (this should work for CYA levels that are not too high ... like 200+)
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,671
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
What size sample did you use? The default with the 2006 is 25ml which means each drop is only 0.2ppm vs 0.5ppm with the 10ml sample.
You can use a 5ml sample where each drop is 1ppm but that is not normally recommended - accuracy suffers. With a limited amount of r871 you might want to do that until the water clears and then switch to the 10ml sample to test OCLT and CC's.
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You can use a 5ml sample where each drop is 1ppm but that is not normally recommended - accuracy suffers. With a limited amount of r871 you might want to do that until the water clears and then switch to the 10ml sample to test OCLT and CC's.
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