- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
Thanks! I have a Clean and Clear 420 and I cleaned the cartridges yesterday and ran it for 2 hours, but I will shut it down for the weekend.
Chris From Central California
- Thread starter MonsterPoolMan
- Start date
I'd hold off draining that much water until I had my own test results. You could be at 150. You could also be much higher. When I took over my pool care, my CYA was in the 220-240 range!MonsterPoolMan said:
As for using bleach: it's pretty much a daily thing during the swim season. When the water gets cold and there's not a lot of sun, you lose less, so if you overdose a little you might be able to go two or three days. It's exactly what my signature line says...
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
Bought the Taylor K-2006 on line so I will have to wait a few days. Bought a submersible pump and I am just going to drain 3/4 of the water. Doing it now. I will keep you updated. BTW, 30 gallons per minute is slow! lol
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
Another question. I am at 75% water emptied, should I just drain it all? My cartridges are 6 years old too, I am thinking about changing those..............
Draining the pool fully is not advised, we actually do not advise draining more than 6"-1ft at a time, but if your water table is low, you should be OK. You can start re-filling. I would just inspect the cartridges, but replacing them won't hurt.
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
dmanb2b said:
Water table??? Bands are broke on 2 cartridges. They used to be blue on the rubber part but now are green. I was curious, why only 6 feet?
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,671
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Water table is the depth under ground where you find water. If it is close to the surface you can float the pool wreaking the deck and plumbing.
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- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
I am in central California so I think I am good. What should I do when it is empty and replace the water? Just bleach?
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
pool-school/temporary_pool_guide-Good stuff here! Though I am scared to add powder...................
If you keep track of how much powder or pucks you use, they are fine.
Although it is simpler to just as the stabilizer and chlorine separately.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Although it is simpler to just as the stabilizer and chlorine separately.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
jblizzle said:If you keep track of how much powder or pucks you use, they are fine.
Although it is simpler to just as the stabilizer and chlorine separately.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Thanks! I can't believe the mess I got into. Over 10 years using Leslie's pucks and Power Powder, I am surprised my CYA's levels didn't hurt me earlier. I should have my test kit and filters soon. I already have 20 gallons of bleach ready!
Can I use the Leslie's Power Powder as my stabilizer or should I get their Colorbrite?
The easiest would be to get pure stabilizer either from Leslies or Walmart. And then use bleach to add chlorine.
But for reference:
The Power Powder Plus is Cal-hypo, so it adds calcium, NOT stabilizer
The Chlor Brite is Dichlor so it will add CYA and what you may want to use.
Fresh N Clear is a non-chlorine product ... not what you should use.
But for reference:
The Power Powder Plus is Cal-hypo, so it adds calcium, NOT stabilizer
The Chlor Brite is Dichlor so it will add CYA and what you may want to use.
Fresh N Clear is a non-chlorine product ... not what you should use.
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
jblizzle said:
What is Fresh and Clear? They tried to sell me that before and I was like WTF if it isn't chlorine, why buy it?
MonsterPoolMan said:
It is Monopersulfate. I am not really sure why you would want to use it. Try a search of the forum if you really care. Here are a couple discussions:
chemistry-of-chloramines-indoor-commercial-pool-t39511.html
dupont-oxone-monopersulfate-for-chem-geek-t36583.html?hilit=monopersulfate
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
jblizzle said:
Can you tell me what is Dichlor at Wal-Mart? I am tired of Leslie's............
Safest bet is to just read the ingredients on the package. Look for something that looks like dichlor.
For example:
The Chlor Brite would say something like: Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinetrione Dihydrate 98+%
The Power Powder would say: Calcium Hypochlorite and somewhere between 50-70%
There are also sometimes powders made of Trichloro (same as tablets)
Walmart carries HTH products, whose "Chlorinating Granules" appear to be cal-hypo and their "shock N Swim" is also cal-hypo, so I am not sure if they sell dichlor or not.
Any reason you are appear opposed to getting HTH Stabilizer and just using liquid chlorine?
For example:
The Chlor Brite would say something like: Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinetrione Dihydrate 98+%
The Power Powder would say: Calcium Hypochlorite and somewhere between 50-70%
There are also sometimes powders made of Trichloro (same as tablets)
Walmart carries HTH products, whose "Chlorinating Granules" appear to be cal-hypo and their "shock N Swim" is also cal-hypo, so I am not sure if they sell dichlor or not.
Any reason you are appear opposed to getting HTH Stabilizer and just using liquid chlorine?
- Nov 7, 2012
- 81
Thanks! I went ahead and did a 3/4 drain. I used a sample of the remaining water, and topped it off with tap water and CYA looked to be at 50. I am rolling the dice now and filling it up! Should be about 3 days. I might need Diholar now. I am concerned about high PH because the same test gave me 7.8. I will post numbers when filled and post them. Hopefully it just "bleach away"!
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,671
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
MonsterPoolMan said:
CYA of 50 is great. pH 7.8 is a touch high but not too high for a lot of us. Drop it down before you bleach bomb it...