Chlorine levels not dropping

[ramirez41]

I made the mistake of trusting the pool store and test strips. This is our third year with the pool. I live in West Michigan. I struggled all summer with high chlorine. Pool store test said 15ppm last time I tested it with them. (They top out at 15) I barely fed chlorine to my pool all summer. I used 1 puk a week, initial shock when opening I used 3 bags of bio guard smart shock. I ended up diluting the water to lower the chlorine after 2 weeks with no solar cover on or feeding more chlorine. I went to a different pool store who pointed out my cya tested was at 150ppm (probably higher since that is the highest the machine reads and the 2nd pool store only tests with strips they said machine testing is a gimmick to get people to buy unnecessary chemicals). The first pool store claimed it was no problem and had a green check mark by the cya number. I drained half my pool and added fresh water. I ordered the Taylor FAS-DPD chlorine kit. It tested that my chlorine was at 10 despite adding no chlorine for 2 weeks, adding 2lbs of chlorine out, and leaving the pool uncovered. It is in full sun for 11 hours during the summer and was ranging 80-84* water temp. I ended up draining my pool half way and refilling to get to 2ppm. My pool is about 14,000 gallons and above ground. Once I was able to get my chlorine to dropped to 2ppm I added 1 puk without the stablizer additive to my skimmer and it jumped back up to 7 over the weekend (we went on a 3 day vacation so I wasn't able to test over the weekend) 2 weeks later and no additional chlorine and my chlorine has dropped to 2ppm again. I am assuming it was a little slower because we do have the solar cover on, the water temp has been dropping daily (currently 65*), our days are getting shorter, and we have been averaging 70 in the day and 57 at night. We will be closing the pool soon. Do I need to get the cya down more before closing? Should we drain down the pool quarter of the way before closing this year to help aid in lowering the cya for next season? (We added the aquador skimmer attachment so we were not planning on draining any water this year the ice build up during the winter is making a wear mark on my linner) I plan to order the full taylor kit next season to test our own water. I didn't want to spend the money for the agents to expire before the next pool season. Could the high cya be the reason we were struggling with pink slim the past 2 years deposit having chlorine levels staying between 2-5ppm, brushing 2 times a week, vacuuming almost daily (we get a lot of bugs that drown after dusk and live on a gravel road), and adding algicide maintenance weekly, and bleaching our ladder every 3 weeks? We did not have the pink slim this year, but my chlorine has been high all summer. How important is it to have my ph, alkalinity, and calcium hardness in balance before closing? Obviously draining and adding water had thrown these off. I do not have current measurements of those levels right now as I didn't want to dump chemicals in when I keep doing a partial water drain and refill.

 

[kul]

Wow! Welcome! You’ve been through lot. Can you post a full set of results from your test kit? Below is some reading to get you started. High chlorine isn’t necessarily an issue, but we need more information. Also stop adding the pucks because they add other things like CYA to your pool. You don’t want to have your Cya go out of control. Use liquid chlorine only. Lastly, stop asking the pool store for advice. Let’s try the TFP method
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! What you seem to be experiencing is a concern for "general industry" FC recommended levels. Those generic numbers do not account for various CYA levels, type of pool, method of chlorination, or additional factors. Here at TFP we do not believe that an FC over 5 (for example) is high To the contrary, it's probably low based on your current CYA level. See our FC/CYA Levels to understand.

So at this point, I would recommend the following:
1 - You need an accurate CYA test. Either the Taylor or go to tftestkits.net and order the R-0013 reagent with viewing tube. Do not trust the pool store CYA test or their advice for that matter. No more pool store chemicals either.
2 - Once you know your true CYA, then adjust the FC to that number. Be 100% sure there is no chance for algae in the water before closing. If in doubt, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

Then follow the link below and put the pool to sleep for a few months. Easy stuff.

Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool

Closing an above ground pool at season’s end should be a fast and worry-free process. Learn the basics of above ground pool winterization in easy steps.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ramirez41]

Wow! Welcome! You’ve been through lot. Can you post a full set of results from your test kit? Below is some reading to get you started. High chlorine isn’t necessarily an issue, but we need more information. Also stop adding the pucks because they add other things like CYA to your pool. You don’t want to have your Cya go out of control. Use liquid chlorine only. Lastly, stop asking the pool store for advice. Let’s try the TFP method
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared

This is the last test I did at the pool. I only have the test kit for chlorine as we are towards the end of the season and taylor told me some of the regimens are only good for 6 months. I will be buying the full kit in the spring. I think my cya is already out of control. Oddly enough this shows the cya range being appropriate between 30-200 yet their machine tops out at 150. My new tablets are stablizer free. The second store said to stop using tablets with stabilizer and gave me the option of the ones I bought or liquid. Are the stablizer free tablets still an issue? They also told me to only use chlorine free shock and there is no need to shock my pool on a schedule and shock is only needed after a large pool party or if you have an algae issue. My numbers will be different now from this since I have done partial drains twice.

 

[Texas Splash]

Unfortunately you are operating in "guess-mode" right now. I understand you're about to close, but the store testing is a mess as you can probably tell. Totally unworthy. I do expect your CYA is elevated since you've used tabs consistently for quite some time. By the way, use a floater. Never place tabs in the skimmer basket.

So going back to the FC/CYA Levels (images below), you can see that if your CYA was 60 for example, how high your FC could still be to be safe. In fact, many of our members take their FC up to what we can "SLAM level" (2nd chart below) just prior to closing for best success (algae prevention). I suspect your FC could be much higher than you think, but exactly how high (12, 16, 24, 28, 31, etc) you can't be sure without an accurate CYA test.

 

[ramirez41]

Wow! Welcome! You’ve been through lot. Can you post a full set of results from your test kit? Below is some reading to get you started. High chlorine isn’t necessarily an issue, but we need more information. Also stop adding the pucks because they add other things like CYA to your pool. You don’t want to have your Cya go out of control. Use liquid chlorine only. Lastly, stop asking the pool store for advice. Let’s try the TFP method
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared

This was the test before my last one. I fixed the high phosphates between the 2 tests. I had decided to concentrate on phosphates and chlorine first before correcting anything else. Same store 2 different locations.

 

[Texas Splash]

Understood. Lots to discuss in the future as a new TFP member. Much of what we advise here is located in our Pool Care Basics page. But I'll summarize a few basic TFP thoughts for you to consider for now:
1 - We never trust pool store testing or advice. 99.9% of the time it's wrong, and their water philosophy is much different than TFP, so don't expect the two to match.
2 - In the majority of well-managed TFP pools, phosphate control does not matter. In only a few unique scenarios do we recommend testing or purchasing "specific products" (not pool store junk) to treat them.
3 - The key to a successful winter prep closing is algae-free water and following the link(s) above.
4 - Liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) is your pool's friend right now to ensure the water is at the correct FC level prior to closing. Again, refer to those FC/CYA Charts above.

As noted in the closing article above, if you elect to use an algaecide for closing, be sure it's copper-free. Looks for a Polyquat 60 form of algaecide. Hope that helps.

 

[ramirez41]

Unfortunately you are operating in "guess-mode" right now. I understand you're about to close, but the store testing is a mess as you can probably tell. Totally unworthy. I do expect your CYA is elevated since you've used tabs consistently for quite some time. By the way, use a floater. Never place tabs in the skimmer basket.

So going back to the FC/CYA Levels (images below), you can see that if your CYA was 60 for example, how high your FC could still be to be safe. In fact, many of our members take their FC up to what we can "SLAM level" (2nd chart below) just prior to closing for best success (algae prevention). I suspect your FC could be much higher than you think, but exactly how high (12, 16, 24, 28, 31, etc) you can't be sure without an accurate CYA test.

So this would be why we never had ill effects to us or our swim wear from the high chlorine that I didn't realize we had since I was using test strips between store tests. Since I typical had my chlorine in the 2-5 range last year it wasn't high enough to kill off bacterias and it would explain the pink slim issue correct. Why not place the chlorine into the skimmer basket?

 

[Texas Splash]

Since I typical had my chlorine in the 2-5 range last year it wasn't high enough to kill off bacterias and it would explain the pink slim issue correct.

Correct, That's very possible.

Why not place the chlorine into the skimmer basket?

Tabs are very acidic, Not good for the plastic basket or strong acidic water to the pump.

 

[ramirez41]

Before we closed our pool we did multiple partial drains and refills to lower the cya. When we closed it we literally just dropped the water level below our return and put the cover on. No chemicals added. We opened our pool this weekend (crystal clear by the way) and I have the Taylor k-2006c test kit. I will be learning this summer. I do have a couple new questions.

When testing the calcium hardness it says it will turn red. Mine turned purple. Is this normal? I did add the drops to turn it to blue and used that calculation to get my measurements. I did the test twice and got the same.

The test kit has different recommended ranges than on here. Why is this?

Looks my cya is still way too high we will work on that over the summer. To confirm I keep my chlorine higher and it will not have any negative effects on swimmers or bleach swimsuits, towels, and our liner?

When it comes time to slam the pool can I still use liquid chlorine even though we are going to use non stabilized tablets until my stocks is used up. I have almost a full 20lb bucket and do not want waste money.

Aboveground 24' round with 52" sides and we have about a 1' ledge, larger where the steps go, and dug it down about 8". Estimated14,000 gallons of water.

 

[Texas Splash]

When testing the calcium hardness it says it will turn red. Mine turned purple. Is this normal?

You should be fine. The initial color change after adding the R-0011 isn't really a true red like the TA test.

The test kit has different recommended ranges than on here. Why is this?

Go with the website. I believe some kits may have had an old notes card still in them. Not drastically different, but enough to catch member's eyes. But the website should be spot-on.

To confirm I keep my chlorine higher and it will not have any negative effects on swimmers or bleach swimsuits, towels, and our liner?

Basically that is true. The higher the CYA the higher the FC needs to be to maintain the 7.5% ratio for ideal sanitation and algae prevention. As long as you don't exceed the SLAM FC level, it's safe to be in the water. I'm surprised your CYA is that high though. You're not using tab or store bags of shock/powders are you? Liquid chlorine is the only way to go.

When it comes time to slam the pool can I still use liquid chlorine even though we are going to use non stabilized tablets until my stocks is used up. I have almost a full 20lb bucket and do not want waste money.

Yes, use the liquid chlorine. I would not use tabs or any other types of sanitizer for now. You can save them for vacations or some other time, but for now, stick to the liquid.

If you confirm the CYA is really that high, I would first exchange some water. It makes the entire water balancing process so much better. If you leave the CYA at 100+ and try to compensate by having an FC level of 10 or more, you'll never get a good pH reading, and that's an important one to have.

Even though your water appears to be clear, in your case I would still recommend doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to be sure there is not chance of algae.

 

[ramirez41]

Thank you. We have no clue how high the cya was before we started doing partial drains. I was doing what the pool store told me to do until I couldn't get my chlorine levels to drop and kept getting pink slime. I went to a different pool store when I was told my phosphates were the issue and after treating the phosphates the high chlorine level was still a problem. The second pool store pointed out that my cya was a problem and didn't understand why they would have targeted the phosphates. Then research lead me here. The second pool store strongly recommended liquid chlorine, but I went with non stabilized tablets instead because they were less intimidating and easier. The only thing I don't care for at the second pool store is they only use test strips to test water samples. Otherwise everything they told me last September is what I am reading here.
At the end of the season I had the first pool store send me every water test I had done (3 seasons worth) and it shows my cya was at 100 (the highest their machine could read) for last summer and mid season the summer before. I am sure the tablets and shock that I used every week like they told me to do as a preventative had stabilizer in them. The only time it was in range was our first year of having the pool. After discovering the important of cya I questioned them on it and they still insisted it was not an important measurement.

 

[Texas Splash]

The pool store advice and products are certainly a major factor to your issues. It made things much worse. You have a K-2006C, so there is no need to seek advice elsewhere other than perhaps here on the TFP forum as needed. No $$$ needed here, and lots of people to coach you along the way. Stick with your own testing and the article in our Pool Care Basics page. Pool life will be so much easier.

Can you do a major water exchange to get a handle on things quicker? You're not on a well are you?

 

[ramirez41]

We are on well so that has been a secondary concern. I put a filter on the hose because we have a very high iron content and our water softener goes outside. Sometimes we turn off the water softener and sometimes we forget.

 

[Texas Splash]

We are on well so that has been a secondary concern. I put a filter on the hose because we have a very high iron content and our water softener goes outside. Sometimes we turn off the water softener and sometimes we forget.

Well water can certainly complicate the water exchange process, not only because you want to avoid iron, but also because you have the well pump to be concerned about. That's a lot of stress. I don't suppose you've ever looked into having water delivered?

 

[ramirez41]

We did. It was a minium of $500.

 

[ramirez41]

I want to thank you for all the help while I learned how to do the trouble free method. I am happy to report that this is the first year I did not fight pink slim in the pool.

I did accidentally let my chlorine levels drop a little too low for my cya levels once this summer and had a small chlorine loss over night because of it. I raised my chlorine to slam level and that took care of it quickly. I was able to identify the problem starting before it became a big problem and my water was clear all summer. Thank you again for your help! We are closing it this weekend.

 

[Newdude]

I was able to identify the problem starting before it became a big problem and my water was clear.

That's my #1 takeaway from reading a bazillion posts here.

Rookies sit around making up excuses how they dont need to OCLT and that their excessive FC loss or traces of algae isn't that bad.

Pros SLAM/OCLT first and ask questions later.

One of them is gifted a swamp for their troubles. Clear water SLAMs are highly preferable while you still have the upper hand, as you saw. Well done.